[mctrials23]

Right guys,
Im fresh out of uni and since leaving and starting full time work I am finding it pretty hard to get down the wall as much as I would like to. At the moment I am managing between 1 and 2 sessions a week. Based on this pathetic lack of commitment to getting to the wall I have come to the conclusion that I should force myself to use my fingerboard as much as possible if I dont get to the wall. On this note I am requesting a fingerboard training plan from any of you strong climbers out there.

I boulder about 7a at my limit at the moment and the fingerboard I have to use is the moonboard. To give a rough idea about my current ability on the board I can hang the four finger tiny crimpers for about 8-9 seconds, Any of the normal holds for about 14 sec on 2 fingers and the rest I can hang for plenty of time. I have a weight belt if needs be.

Im just looking to get as strong as possible while away from the wall. Im hoping to built a little shed wall in the next few months but till then I need something to keep me going.

Any help would be awesome, cheers guys.

[a dense loner]

i don't believe 7a is your limit if you can hold them holds

drop fingers on the crimps, ie no pinkies, working inwards
are you using all the combinations of 2 fingers? if not then do

[slackline]

Any help would be awesome, cheers guys.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9977.0.html
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9977.0.html
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9139.0.html

I think you get the idea  



If you've got the Moon fingerboard, why aren't you working your way through the Moon Fingerboard Training Plan?

[mctrials23]

The thing that lets me down usually when doing routes is my power endurance which is why my limit is about 7a. I can do harder boulder problems if I do them in sections but I havnt got the endurance to do them all in one go. I know fingerboarding is unlikely to remedy that but seeing as I cant do anything about the endurance till I get climbing again I thought that I might as well try and get stronger in one way or another.

I have been folllowing the moon plan up untill now but I have trouble when I start going onto the 1 arm stuff. I need to hook up some sort of pulley system really.

I understand that there are other posts on fingerboarding but I thought that if I gave a few personal details about my current ability on the fingerboard it would allow a more focussed training plan.

Just to make sure; are you saying I should be able to climb harder than 7a based on what I can do on the fingerboard at the moment or less than 7a?

[Johnny Brown]

He's saying harder. If you can do that then finger strength is clearly not your limiting factor. I'd get a bachar ladder.

[mctrials23]

Hmm, an interesting thought. I have got hardly any campus strength which im going to remedy by building a campus board soon. What sort of grade would finger strength as described allow me to climb should I sort out the other areas of weakness. Obviously there is no exact answer but a rough guide would be good; something to aim for eh!

[a dense loner]

8a

[mctrials23]

There is no way i could get near 8a at the moment. I must be doing something wrong if i have that strong fingers but only climb 7a. I did a fingerboard session earlier and did what you said on here and used different pairs of fingers and found out that my index finger is pretty sorry. Ring and middle are strong but middle and index are weak. I think that where I am lacking is in technique, endurance and power. Cheers for all the help.

[moeh]

The question is if you can hang on these holds one handed or two handed. Could be the difference between 7a and 8a.

[mctrials23]

lol, both hands. There is no way I can hang one handed on those tiny crimpers. I think that may be where the confusion was. I thought that it was a little unlikely that I should be able to climb 8a with my finger strength.

[k2ted]

do you mean hanging from two fingers on one hand?? or both hands on?

[mctrials23]

2 fingers on each hand

[a dense loner]

do you only have 3 fingers mc? whats wrong with ring and pinky?

be careful tho

i meant 2 handed as well

[mctrials23]

Haha, my pinky is a cosmetic digit as far as I can tell. Im starting to create a routine that works all 4 fingers now instead of just the middle 3 as I reckon that is where I am falling down a bit. The campus board should sort out my power issues and I guess that im gonna have to climb to get the endurance .