[kev.]

Whilst being dark lurker of UKB i dont post..... Until now! I need some pointers as to which fingerboard people like and dislike.  Im pretty strong armed and quite weak fingered so intend to replace harsh chin up regimes with some serious dead hanging.  Ive been looking at offerings from Moon, Metolius and Entreprises any ideas/ pointers?

Cheers kev.

[Nibile]

mine is self made, but it's also the Mother of All Fingerboards and was able to get me a nice stress fracture to my right wrist. i can give you the design, if you're keen!!!
seriously, i think many people here rate the moon one very good.

[GCW]

The Varian and Moon boards are good.

[k2ted]

have a moon board which I like but struggle with the crimps (big hands n heavy), find them very pinchy on the fingers and cant use the smaller ones at all. Been thinking about changing to Bleaustone board...

[kev.]

yeah nibs, i wouldnt mind a plan for your mother of all fingerboards im a bit of a joiner on the sly so im sure i could knock something up in addition to whatever resin i invest in. less isnt more, MORE is more. just looking for one of these varian boards at the moment but moon is looking like the strongest contender.

[Nibile]

there you go man!!!
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9183.0.html

[Munkii]

i have a metolius but didnt have much of a choice, it was cheap and i bought it from a local shop.

[account_inactive]

Metolius is good for pockets and has a fair amount of other stuff
Moon board has plenty of open hand stuff, but the crimps are painful and it's hard to train pairs of fingers as they move around
The beastmaker is the one to go for if they ever stop breaking their CNC machine

[Snapey]

Im also looking at a fingerboard, im really tied up between the moon and the bleaustone one! they both look similar but the price of the moon i think is good!!
anyone have one of these and can you give me some feed back if so?
 
Cheers
Ian

[steven82]

the beastmaker is the only one to buy, it has everything you need and more

[richdraws]

I would make sure its a wooden fingerboard, I own a moon board and a beastmaker/varian/ned board. I prefer the beastmaker. You dont need to go to any expense though you can always just hang from a strip of wood ala Dave Macleod.

[chillax]

http://picasaweb.google.com/paul.brennan42/ClimbingRelatedRambling?authkey=riGkAZwiOCI#5104286471495004978

Works well for me. I just got a bit of old oak plank, sanded the top edge, drilled out some pockets and bolted it up. Boom, robert's your mothers brother! 

[kev.]

i checked out the beastmaker and my mind is made up! the wood is good, only downside is the website saying available in october, i have to wait five days to order!?

cheers for the advice people. 

kev

[Kingy]

I would recommend trying to make your own one if you have a bit of time on your hands. Here is my one, posted up already on the training threads but reproduced here for ease of reference.





The slopers in the middle are absolutely heinous to hang as are the various crimps at the bottom of the board...great training for extreme finger power  It has a nice variety of pockets/ edges. I agree with Richdraws you don't need to go to massive expense - you're only hanging from the equivalent of a door frame at the end of the day, its not rocket science!

[Munkii]

yeah those red rectangles do look quality!

[Kingy]

Here are the web links:

http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=140486099/PictureID=5778172052/a=72146871_72146871/t_=72146871
http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=238717960/PictureID=5778168504/a=72146871_72146871/t_=72146871

[richdraws]

WOW! Those red rectangles look even better at full size. I wonder if like Mark Rothko's paintings that their colour is even more impressive when seen 'in the flesh'.

Stunning.

[Paul B]

I would make sure its a wooden fingerboard, I own a moon board and a beastmaker/varian/ned board. I prefer the beastmaker. You dont need to go to any expense though you can always just hang from a strip of wood ala Dave Macleod.

Any chance someone with a beastmaker could let me know the dimensions? I've never bothered with deadhanging but thought that on re-psych its probably time to start. Now all I have to do is work out how to mount it in the flat without tearing a wall or door frame down, everything seems paper thin, the powerbar option is appealing but i've got nowhere to put it once i'm done.

[carlisle slapper]

Hi Paul.

Dimensions.
 X axis 600mm
 Y axis 140mm
 Z axis 55mm

it weighs about 1kg and its been designed to fit nicely above a door with a bit of elbow room too

it has alot more holds than the moon board and is ridiculously rounded when finished to avoid tweaks and blood blisters etc.

currently were using cured tulip wood from the UK as a by product off tree surgeons.

If you want to train like a brit and only ever use 4 fingers and crimp the shit out of edges that'd do slate pround get a moon board. they are cheaper too and you will definately be able to get one sooner. Ben had absolutely nowt to do with designing it like, he is merely an efficient distributor, but the fact that Simpson got well strong on Gary's even more angular version is a testament to the fact that its a pretty good design.

i spent a while designing mine and then redesigning it because all i had was good crimp strength and one trick ponys don't win races. i reckon its helped me a wee bit and i've been doing a fair old spot of bouldering of late and its safe to say that solidly improving a few bouldering grades over a year and a half of targeting specific finger weaknesses is probably mostly attributable to my beloved planks (and possibly a certain symmetrical board)
i originally made my original with power tools. it looked a bit heath robinson though and even slight variations piss you off after a while which is why we built a machine accurate to 0.3mm when it came to selling them.
It targets pockets and slopers the best, crimps are crimps at the end of the day and i never train full crimp anyway as its a mugs game, half crimp is good knowledge and half crimp on front 2 and middle 2 on the bottom crimp certainly wakes the pulleys up (or if your a bit sick like me you can do back 2 aswell). you can crimp pockets and slopers too if you want.


At the end of the day you could probably sand your doorframe and still see benefits to your climbing, in the same way that any old engine will move a car, but when someone rags a ferrari down your street at 200mph it kind of makes you sit up and pay attention to what is possible.


So i hope i've sold a few more so i can tell everyone you can't have one because were still rebuilding our machine and it'll be atleast a month before things get going again.
 plus you'd just be lining the pockets of the faceless corporate machine that is the current BBC champion in all his nastiness and his chubby  mate who only climbs outside and occasionally wobbles up the odd problem

anyone that can do a one armer on back 2 on the slopiest pockets will be entitled to a full waddage reimbursement.

(P.S. Can someone change my name to Dan V on my profile)

[Paul B]

Cheers Dan

it weighs about 1kg and its been designed to fit nicely above a door with a bit of elbow room too

It's the weight + me on these paper built walls that concerns me.

i spent a while designing mine and then redesigning it because all i had was good crimp strength and one trick ponys don't win races.

As your current housemates will probably be able to tell you I have made a habit of crimping EVERYTHING which is why all of those pockets looked twistedly appealing.
 

So i hope i've sold a few more so i can tell everyone you can't have one because were still rebuilding our machine and it'll be atleast a month before things get going again.

I think 'Champ' has stuck me down already or he better have 

[a dense loner]

if anyone is serious about having no friends, hanging in a cellar whilst listening to richie hawtin, they could do a lot worse than getting this board which is the best one out there. ideally they would put it on the other side of the joist from the moon board. like take that said never forget where you're coming from

[Simon S]

Dan, the beastmaker looks like a very good piece of kit and at an incredible price. Nice one! 

If I didn't use my old faithful campus rungs then I would definitely get one.

[robertostallioni]

I love the 'drive-by' style bolt-on holes.

[GCW]

Dense, I never took you as a Plastikman fan.

[Paul B]

Ned just showed me a beastmaker (unfortunately spoken for) and I was impressed. The board looks great, all of the holds look amazing, nice and comfortable and enough for everybody, beasts and beasts in the making.

Dense - do you have a BM and a moon board in there with a set of rings and MY dumbbells? Like your very own training dungeon.