[Fultonius]

My main weakness seems to be getting injured - but we'll forget about that for the moment.

I remember a reading a thread on here a while back and it had a "test" (possible by unclesomebody ) that was good for detecting areas of weakness.

Can anyone remember what it was?

I'm thinking training my weknesses will get me stroger quicker and hopefully prevent injuries.

[Paul B]

I remember seeing an old spider diagram (cragx.com possibly?) and an article written by jerry about this.

Uncle sent me this a while ago:

How many one armers per arm? How many pull ups on jugs?
How many pulls ups on a small rung?
What is the smallest hold you can hang one arm?
open or 3 fingers?
What can you campus at the moment?
Can you do front levers at the moment? if so, for how long?
What weight can you load onto yourself and still do a pull up on a small rung?

Hope it's of some help.

[Fultonius]

How many one armers per arm? 0 (some very slight upward movement) How many pull ups on jugs? 3 sets of 12 (15 in one go at a push)
How many pulls ups on a small rung? Haven't checked in a while - maybe 8 or 9
What is the smallest hold you can hang one arm? I'll have to check - probably second joint edge.
open or 3 fingers? 3 fingers
What can you campus at the moment? 1-3-5-7-9 on smalls, 1-4 match 4-7match 7-9. I think I can touch 1-5 and maybe do 1-4-6 but I'll have to check.Can you do front levers at the moment? if so, for how long? no. I can do 50+ situps, 20 with 5kg, and do L-sits
What weight can you load onto yourself and still do a pull up on a small rung? Never tried. Can do 8 pull ups on jugs with +20kg.

I will try and get better details on the other stuff soon.

Just for more info - I boulder indoors for training but do very little additional training (but most of the time I'm outdoors actually climbing)hardest I've bouldered is 7A+, sport climbed 7B+ generally do better outdoors than in.

I'm 97% recovered from a subluxating shoulder (I do weights and bands for shoulder strength/stability).

I've got a niggling forearm injury that seems to get aggrivated on pockets - it's my left hand ring finger, it gets a wee bit sore roughly where the tendon inserts into the muscle.

Weight: 77kg - fairly low bodyfat% - somewhere between 12%-15%.
6ft.
On thing that weighs me down is my heavy lower half as I do a bit of mountainbiking and quite a lot of winter climbing (big rucksacks/big hills).

Any thoughts.

[Paul B]

What's the point of matching on a campus board? Matching is anti-power.

I think the open or 3 fingers is meant to mean what's the smallest hold you can hang open or 3 fingers (as uncle is well aware that I will crimp everything, no scrap that, ANYTHING).
Sit-ups and Weighted sit-ups: I'm not sure these are relevant really. They're a very poor substitute for L-sits, levers etc. anyway.

And please lets not get back onto the bodyfat debate.

[Fultonius]

What's the point of matching on a campus board? Matching is anti-power. - I don't really campus - but did last night and that was the best I could do - I'll stop now!!

I think the open or 3 fingers is meant to mean what's the smallest hold you can hang open or 3 fingers (as uncle is well aware that I will crimp everything, no scrap that, ANYTHING). Ah, I see. not sure but my open hand is straonger than crimp - I don't crimp unless I must


Sit-ups and Weighted sit-ups: I'm not sure these are relevant really. They're a very poor substitute for L-sits, levers etc. anyway. Cool, will substitute those for levery type stuff.

And please lets not get back onto the bodyfat debate. 

[i.munro]

How many one armers per arm? How many pull ups on jugs?
How many pulls ups on a small rung?
What is the smallest hold you can hang one arm?
open or 3 fingers?
What can you campus at the moment?
Can you do front levers at the moment? if so, for how long?
What weight can you load onto yourself and still do a pull up on a small rung?

This would be useful given a database of some sort to compare it to.
So to start this off
1
15-ish
I can't
1-3-5 on Huuuuge rungs.
Yes for about 0.4s
10kg

Seems to come out to about 6c

(looks like finding my strengths might be harder than finding weaknesses)

[unclesomebody]

Before this gets out of control it needs clearing up. It was very good of paul to post up those questions that I sent him, but I think people have taken it out of context. I sent those questions to Paul because I know him and know roughly where he is at with his climbing. Those questions were not intended to be a general test to find out where someone is. It is possible that they could be modified to create a more general rough test of climbing related strengths, but this is not what they are in their current incarnation.

Fultonius; I would suggest that you simply go down to your local wall or local rocks and try to climb with or observe people who are better than you. When you see someone do something that you can't do just ask the simple question of Why? This will lead you to the answers you require. That is the free option. A pay option is to do a masterclass with someone who knows what they are doing.

This random assimilation of answers to semi irrelevant questions isn't the way to go.

[i.munro]

This random assimilation of answers to semi irrelevant questions isn't the way to go.

Passes the time at work though?

[Stubbs]

How many one armers per arm?

1

you can do a one armer and climb 6c?

[Paul B]

Before this gets out of control it needs clearing up. It was very good of paul to post up those questions that I sent him, but I think people have taken it out of context. I sent those questions to Paul because I know him and know roughly where he is at with his climbing. Those questions were not intended to be a general test to find out where someone is. It is possible that they could be modified to create a more general rough test of climbing related strengths, but this is not what they are in their current incarnation.

Yup, definitely taken out of context by me 

[i.munro]

you can do a one armer and climb 6c?

Ooops! That was a typo & should read 0, not one, not even close.

[robertostallioni]

Lets say average male adult fingers are 1.5cm wide. Separation of 0 and 1 on a keyboard approx 15 cm....Therefore I calculate you must have a 5 foot long penis Ian.

[a dense loner]

a 5ft long penis and the ability to climb 8c. now thats impressive

[steven82]

Fultonius i think your main weakness reading everything that you have said is your finger strength, plus its usually everyones weakness, but i would certianly suggest that especially with your injuries that you look to do more finger board training, and i wouldnt do any weighted pull ups, they will only aggrevate your injuries more especially the shoulder. There are lots of  finger boards out there some not so good some ok, not too sure what everyone things of them here but either moon boards which are cheapish and have less crap on them but are limited or if you speak to ned i know he is creating one that is in my opinion fantastic. But any sort of deadhang training would probably benefit you and obviously getting that shoulder up to strength will help massively.
I would personally leave weights alone apart from for your shoulder, until you have really sorted what your weaknesses are. Just climbing and climbing on problems/routes that you find awkward and out of your comfort zone will also help, well it certainly wont hurt.

[Fultonius]

Uncle: Crimp strength...that's the one thing I'd say from watching others who are better, that and maybe body tension and lock-off ability. (In other words they're just stronger)

Steven 82: Yep, I'm going to stop my bouldering sessions slightly eariler from now on and finish with some fingerboarding cycled on/off with campussing.

Hit the last hold again, twice, on my V8 project but sussed out some new beta so I think it'll go once I'm back from Font.