[Fiend]

Just an idle speculative thought.... That thought being that despite the guidebook implying it's solid for the grade and despite reading comments elsewhere that it's stiff, that actually it is an utter piece of piss that is more like V1 5b maybe easy 5c at a push. Pull on with the massive holds, stand in the massive holds, shuffle your feet a bit and mantle the top. I can't see how people get V3 6a difficulty out of this, the V0 5a slab around the corner is harder because that's got no holds...

I mean if you got this on a route above gear and someone called it E4 6a you'd be pissing yourself with the idea.

[dave k]

I think it used to get uk6b/c-(it was my 1st!!!- we all need soft touches) so V3 was a considerable down grade. I think it would be a quite tricky 5c to onsight on a route. It also requires a fair bit of finger strength.

If you want some sport- try doing it one handed.

[Eddies]

Well said Davek.
I always found this problem hard for the grade... untill i finaly did it, and now a few years down the line its still one of my favourites.

[Kingy]

Like Dave K this was also my first English 6c! Needless to say I had a bit of a shock over the next one I encountered... I have coached beginners up this and they seem to find it fairly tough. I think it is easy to underestimate how difficult it is to actually stand up on massive footholds! I also think that as the problem has had so much traffic over the years, the footholds have probably got better.

[Zods Beard]

I agree with you Fiend, no way is this V3, as for english 6c, thats just taking the piss.

[Johnny Brown]

I mean if you got this on a route above gear and someone called it E4 6a you'd be pissing yourself with the idea.

What, like Traveller in Time? Which is about three grades easier still? I nearly fell off I was laughing so hard.

[Bonjoy]

In the old purple and green bouldering guide it gets B7!

[GCW]

Not sure about a grade for this.  I did it years ago and thought it was very easy.  A couple of years later it took a couple of goes and it felt hard.  i personally wouldn't agrue with V3, but it's only a number at the end of the day 

[Fiend]

Hmmmm...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=26950

Hop on and grab the massive pockets. Rock up rightwards onto the lower massive pocket, then step left into the upper massive pocket. Mantel a bit.

Huge holds on a slab and obvious moves....what am I missing here??

P.S. Yes it's only a number and one which is of almost no concern to me apart from idle curiosity. But if it was a V13 I'm sure there would be a worth debate in minute detail .

P.P.S. JB, I backed off TIT because I was too scared to commit to the mantel (yes, I am THAT bad). I got very, very angry at myself.

[GCW]

Rock up rightwards onto the lower massive pocket, then step left into the upper massive pocket. Mantel a bit.

Ah, I seem to remember a couple of smearing moves and a sloping mantel.  Obviously, if you're shorter it's a lot easier 'cos you can stand in the pocket

I don't think you can claim V13 for it, Fiend.  More like font 6a.......

[BenF]

I don't think you can claim V13 for it, Fiend.  More like font 6a.......

I haven't got time to read the whole thread, but I shall add my ill-informed tuppence worth anyway and there's no way it's V13, not even soft V13.  Have I missed anything?

[slackline]

I haven't got time to read the whole thread, but I shall add my ill-informed tuppence worth anyway and there's no way it's V13, not even soft V13.  Have I missed anything?

Yes the post two below yours 

P.S. Yes it's only a number and one which is of almost no concern to me apart from idle curiosity. But if it was a V13 I'm sure there would be a worth debate in minute detail .

[BenF]

 

Sorry slack---line, forgot to add the irony/pointless drivel signpost that should be attached to most of my posts.

[slackline]

Sorry slack---line, forgot to add the irony/pointless drivel signpost that should be attached to most of my posts.

Shit I've missed that emoticon, could do with applying it to most of my inane writings.

[GCW]

Don't worry Slackers, noone takes anything you say seriously anyway 

[BenF]

Shit I've missed that emoticon, could do with applying it to most of my inane writings.
[/quote]

I think there's a few of us that could well use one of them.  I should have one tattooed on my forehead.

[Johnny Brown]

Hilarious Fiend. You say if it was on an E4 route you'd be laughing your way up... then back off TIT terrified! I think you should retract the whole thread, its now nonsense. I propose a vote of no confidence in Fiend.

[slackline]

Don't worry Slackers, noone takes anything you say seriously anyway  

phew, thats a relief.

Perhaps is appropriate?

[Fiend]

That's because it's easier than TIT, obviously. (Also don't mistake my route ineptness for an inability to judge technical difficulty.)

And a lot easier than Ascent Of Man, which I did. And for that matter San Melas, which I did. Both of which are also slabs, but not covered in big holds.

I retract NOTHING.  

[Jaspersharpe]

I propose a vote of no confidence in Fiend.

How many of us need to sign up before that becomes law? I read they need 80 MPs or something to force a leadership election but seeing as that's for who's in charge of the whole country (and this is just some nonsense pisstaking on a website) I suggest 2. Motion carried. And who are you calling a TIT?

[GCW]

You say if it was on an E4 route you'd be laughing your way up...

Well, Fiend thinks it's super easy for V3, so it must be in the V1/2 area, ie British 5b/c.  So on an E4 5b you'd be pretty run out/ unprotected.  I reckon a 20m route with that as the crux topout, with a groundfall if you fail, would get some people's sphincters twitching.

Having said that, the amount of erosion under this problem may mean it needs an E grade soon  

[Fiend]

I propose Fiend for El Presidente and Dictator For Life 

[slackline]

I propose Fiend for President and Dictator For Life 

Who's Dictator? 

[Eddies]

I thought it read dicktaker!?