[account_inactive]

http://0km.jp/view_mov.php?v_id=2tGSBYr1g0o&tag=resin

[Paul B]

At a recent testing a few people weren't too impressed by the capsules shown on the video. They use the glass as an aggregate and from what was shown this left large gaps surrounding the bolt, in the tested case anyway. I can't remember if that one ended up being pull-tested or not. The north wales boys seem to like them though so they can't be all bad.

[Bonjoy]

Yeah, I'm not a big fan of capsules. For a start you can't recess the bolts if you use a capsule.

[account_inactive]

Fair points.  I thought it was interesting as I'd not seen the capsules before.  The point about knackered nozzles is interesting, although it seems to take ages to break up the glass and get the bolt flush

[gr]

pos the best site for info:

http://bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm

[account_inactive]

Good site.  I did however have a conversation with Paul about those twisty bolts.................

[Paul B]

pos the best site for info:

http://bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm

Oh now you've gone and done it! I can't believe those things won an award. IMO they deform far too easily and where that may not mean ULS failure its going to un-nerve any climber with half a brain. A crab and a sling pulled from a 90 deg angle (by my tiny frame) caused a visible deflection in the eyelet. Again IMO the sustainability claims of this product aren't too well founded, (bearing in mind that the bedrock was bolted so there was easy access to the bolt, no ropes etc.) tapping the bolt on the end and rotating it with some kind of lever wasn't easy and just led it to shear in multiple cases. Thats not after 20 years of use or anything daft that was about one month I believe.
//Rant over

[gr]

I've no experience with those bolts of theirs. Interesting reading regarding the staple style ones. I've placed a number of the original short leg 'poxleys' - as far as I know none of them (mine at least) have failed...yet! The home made ones we made had a wider spacing and far longer legs. We tested these in shite quality sandstone using Hilti c100, their capsules and also their crappy c100-replacement stuff. We borrowed a hilti test rig from the shop (and broke it trying to rip the bolts out in the end)- we eventually managed to break the rock around the bolts - neither the bolts nor the bolt / glue never failed. placed a glue-in bolt in wet sandstone with poorly cleaned placement - this did eventually pull - but did so slowly rather than catastrophically. as for rotation of (non staple) glue in bolts - what we have done in the past is to recess the bolts so the eyelet is in a slot and cant rotate. of course this means chipping the rock using your drill - but a bolts a chipped placement anyway - only bad thing about it is it makes replacement in the future more difficult - and it can fook the bearings of your drill if you're not careful. as mentioned above - nae experience of the bolt-products glue-ins - i've just used eco-anchors (not so great), home made staples, various petzl glue-ins (great) and random stuff i've bought in france and spain (all back in '90s).

[Pantontino]

it seems to take ages to break up the glass and get the bolt flush

I've placed quite a few bolts with the capsules and it does take a bit of getting used to. After a few goes you soon pick up a slightly quicker technique though.