[Jaspersharpe]

Right now though, for the next couple of weeks, what's the best way to help recovery? Is climbing ok (I'd guess doing easy routes at the wall will be fine as long as it's not aggrivating my elbows?)

I would have thought that these questions are impossible to answer without a proper diagnosis from a physio or suchlike? Just because it "feels like" it might be something doesn't mean it is that! I'd get it checked out properly.

[Fultonius]

I'm at the physio all the damn time. 

So, I'll just assume it's what I think it is for a couple of weeks and if it doesn't get better then I'll give him a phone - sometimes he doesn't even bother getting me to come in.

I'm going for:

1 Weeks total rest. (well, maybe go for a run)
1 week of gentle stretches and maybe some light climbing.

Reassess condition. Go to physio if required.

Another 2 weeks of light climbing. (then I'm away with work for 2 weeks, so probably pretty much resting anyway)

Should be good after that. Then I can start bringing in some more exercises that'll hopefully prevent this in future.

[Eddies]

Ive found what looks like a good full shoulder and elbow thera-band workout here:
www.medicalcenter.osu.edu/pdfs/PatientEd/Materials/PDFDocs/exer-reh/upper/ther-scap.pdf

[dave k]

Both my physio and RU`s article have informed me that tendons strengthen less quickly than muscles. Something to do with a lower blood supply to tendons.

Therefore a sudden increase in climbing intensity (which I have done over the last 18 months) can lead to tendonitus and possibly tendonosis (tendon degeneration).

The solution  appears to be to strengthen the tendons- while not strenghtening the muscles.

This is why most exercises I have come across - use one hand on extension and two hands on contraction- e.g. bicep curl with dub bell- lift with two hands, then lower slowly with one hand.


 

[webbo]

Both my physio and RU`s article have informed me that tendons strengthen less quickly than muscles. Something to do with a lower blood supply to tendons.

i don't mean to be rude but anyone who trains seriously and doesn't know this must having being living in a parallel universe.