[meatball]

Well, i am on a bit of a road trip. Spent three/four weeks in Ceuse and got spanked !!!

I can boulder around 7a+/7b consistently, but whatever work i do to improve stamina/power endurance i qlways get stuck around F7b/F7b+

Any useful tips?

[Bonjoy]

Do lots of onsighting at the top of your onsight grade.
Make a concerted effort to try to stop and rest on routes. Initially you may not get any recovery whilst hanging about, but eventiually you'll start to get stuff back at rest. This is a process that takes time, just like training any other aspect of climbing. Going down the 'sprint to the top' road will only get you so far and is a deadend in the long run. You can only do long stamina routes if you develop your ability to rest in ever more marginal positions.

[Pantontino]

I think Bonjoy is right (mostly), it's all about what you can get at the rests. And also changing your attitude to what constitutes a potential resting position. I find when I'm completely pumped, just a mini second flick (if possible) as I move to the next hold can get me through sections that I would have fallen off if I'd just pressed on sprint style. Also make sure that you are draining your arms (of lactic acid) at rests, i.e. alternatively lift your arm above your head and below your waste when shaking out.

I'm not sure that purely onsighting is necessarily the best way forward; it all depends on what your intended goal is. Lots of onsighting will make you good at onsighting, but not necessarily at seige redpointing.

[mickb]

Have you put much time into doing intervals, 4x4's etc?
Worked for me, along with milking rests for all they're worth.

[meatball]

Thanks for the reponses!!

Mike, what do you mean 4x4?

[robertostallioni]

Intervals? Or doing a 4x4?

[Ferrito]

I feel truly sickened.....

[robertostallioni]

I feel truly sickened.....

Did I accidentally 'out' you?

[lagerstarfish]

Well, i am on a bit of a road trip. Spent three/four weeks in Ceuse and got spanked !!!

I can boulder around 7a+/7b consistently, but whatever work i do to improve stamina/power endurance i qlways get stuck around F7b/F7b+

Any useful tips?

work a 7b until you do it, then work a 7b+ until you do it, then work a 7c until you do it, then work a 7c+ until you do it etc. etc. Nothing else works as well as this plan (as long as you are having fun at each stage).

[shark]

When you say stuck on F7b/7b+ is that onsight or redpoint ?
What PE/stamina work have you done ?
Do you fully recover on rests ?
Did you have plenty of rest days at Ceuse ?

[lagerstarfish]

Are you dressing correctly?



 

[SA Chris]

Why, which way do you dress?

[lagerstarfish]

Why, which way do you dress?

Despite the claims of Stamina^tm, I refuse to commit TNB with shirt tucked in.

[milksnake]

what exactly do mean by stamina? are you burning out mid route or are just not able to get much done in day/ feel fucked the day after?

[Dave Westlake]

Do what I told you dumbass and stop overgripping! 

Stamina is not your problem, it's more a mix of the above and the wrong mental approach!!

[milksnake]

I feel truly sickened.....

Did I accidentally 'out' you?

I think the fact you had that image to hand outed you if anyone

[Houdini]

Any useful tips?

Pull your finger out and do one half-marathon every weekend.

[meatball]

Burning out mid route seems to be the problem. When shaking out at a rest, i get quite good recovery but seem to get pumped real quick again...