[Percy B]

OK folks - sorry to mention it here, but its the Summer and most folks who use the Woody at The Edge won't (if their lucky) have darkened its doors for a few months, so I though I would test opinion of my bright idea on this forum.

I am thinking of taking all the holds off the Edge's woody, cleaning them all and re-setting the whole place by the start of October. This is because...
1     All the holds are mingingly dirty and grim to climb on
2     I think a lot of the holds are badly placed - ie:good holds wasted on inappropriate boards. This was due to the way the place was originally set up, and I never got a chance to get it properly sorted! I reckon there could be a much better selection of grips on those boards....
3     All the hold names have worn off, so it would give me a chance to practise my joined up writing and think of a load of new dodgy words to rename the grips
4     It will give you all a whole new wall full of classic projects to try a complete
5     It will mean that I have to scrub holds for weeks on end, ruining my poor skin............ :cry:

What do you think? Is it time? Surely in the last 2 and a bit years you have all finished those long term projects of yours?!?! If anybody has any strong opinions, let me know (nicely)! I will go with the majority on this one (votre No, for the love of God!!!!)

[dave]

i recon go with it. For ages i've said thay those big gritty hold next to the door are completely wasted as foor ledges on a vertical wall, when some shitty bencrete holds would do the trick. And that another point, please please please loose the bendcrete holds, they are shit, plain shit . The only person i ever seen really use them is lycra-clad Dave Thomas on traverses, they are bloody unpleasant to climb on. Also the 30deg wall could use some undercuts, cos there are non there at the mo and as a result i am weak on undercuts!

other than that the spread of hold on the other boards is bo. Make me wanna spend another £100 come december, although if my woody gets built i may not re-join, but if you make these changes good i might reconsider. :D

[chris]

yeah man its about time the woody was revamped. the problem is the holds are not very good, on the 45 degree board there are loads of shit holds that never get used, you also get patches of great holds and subsequently loads of cool problems, but then you get ares of shit holds with no problems on at all. the wall to the right of the roof never gets used and could have some cool traverses on it. the roof is fucking brilliant as is the cragx board (needs cleaning....well lets cut to the chase, the whole woody needs cleaning). lose, please lose the bendcrete holds....there wank :evil: what about a campus area?? i cant be bothered trekking to the foundry just for campusing!

if you give me some of my membership back i'll help you clean those holds...hows that for generosity :shock:

[dave]

can't they clean about 150 holds at once in the dishwasher?

[Paz]

I'm constantly jealous by the strength levels sheffielders can achieve by climbing there.  I am basically getting burnt off all the time so I vote leave it alone.

[Percy B]

Unfortunately Dave, they have yet to invent a dishwasher that will get that quantity of 'boulderer-batter' out of my lovely grips!!! You must use the power of my industrial steam cleaning machine to cut through all the chalky lard on those puppies......

Anyway, cheers for the feedback. Heres what I'm toying with now.
 
1     Clean all the holds, and reposition them all on the appropriate boards, with a more structured view to where I'm putting them (to try and reduce the patches of bad holds that currently exist)!

2     Turn the stepped 45 degree board into a system board for more structured training.

3     Sort out a new sound system

4     Replace some of the more abrasive Bendcretes with some new holds, and give the others a spot of treatment with a smidgen of emery cloth so you bastards stop whinging about how rough they are!!! :wink:
I would replace them all, but theres loads of them, and new grips don't grow on trees you know (although the wooden ones used to be parts of trees....I know, I know...!)

5     Start training in there again, with a view to getting a little of this power stuff you boys all go on about all the time.

[Doylo]

Percy i wasn't going to bother renewing my membership but might consider if the woody gets a revamp. Basically my biggest complaint is a lack of nice small crimpy holds to develop finger strength. The wooden holds on the bottom right steep board were good but they were taken down for the team comp and not replaced. I think you need a big variety of holds to keep everyone happy.

[Doylo]

oh yeah and a campus board would be a MASSIVE bonus!

[dave]

Also Perc, if i'm going to part with 100bar for a third time, please can we have a ban on traversing/circuiting lycra-wearing stamina-fags, you know the type, drags the standard of the clientelle down. Now don't get me wrong i don't mind the odd bit of power-endurance, but theres some guys there giving bouldering a bad name! I joined a woody instead of a big leading wall to escape the 3/4 lycra-wearing pump-jockeys. :wink:

[dobbin]

Ah Ha! A subject I can relate to :wink:  

Cleanliness is next to godliness where boards are concerned - clean boards are a pleasure to train on so its easy to remain keen. I wonder if the woody is high enough for a campus board. With 22cm between rungs (add an extra 3cm for rung itself) and 9 rungs minimum thats 2.25metres and the damn things got to start at at least 1.5metres so your ceilings gonna have to be 3.75metres! you could always put it outside like button moon's!

As for the holds I've only been a handful of times so can't really comment. The best holds I have seen on boards are those on Gaz and Ian's board at Blackburn, I think they're mostly Pushers and Dan French jobbies.

As for where to put them, Percy, you're one of the best setters in the country at the moment so if anyone can you should sort them out properly. Good luck! I might even defect from the Foundry!

[dave]

with 8 foot ceilings or whatever the woody has got, you could make a 4-foot square 7-rung campus board (8" between rung centres) which would be better than nowt. I don't think 7 rungs its that limiting (its what i might build in my attic), you could always do 1-4-7 on very poor holds if you are strong instead of 1-5-9 on bigger holds.

[Percy B]

OK boys....thats it! I'm on with it almost as I type. My beautiful 45 degree board is now completely naked of all its lovely greasy grips and it looks like it could by a long day of cleaning for me....!

Cheers to everybody for the input. I will do my best, and the main board should be climbable again by this evening with lovely new holds.

The campus board issue is still on going. I would love to have one, but have encountered a degree of resistance from the management!
The woody room isn't really high enough for a decent campus board, and compromising with a little one seems like a bit of a waste. There could be plans afoot to extend the woody to incorporate some toilets and a dedicated campusing area, but as ever, we'll have to wait and see. I want a board like the one they have in the French teams school in Aix, a twenty five foot high campus board with a selection of slopey rungs to choose from and a big pole vaulting mat underneath....its impresive watching Chabot doing 1-4-7-10-13-16-19-22-25 to warm up - I kid you not!!!!!
We can but dream I suppose....!

[Adam Lincoln]

I want a board like the one they have in the French teams school in Aix, a twenty five foot high campus board with a selection of slopey rungs to choose from and a big pole vaulting mat underneath....its impresive watching Chabot doing 1-4-7-10-13-16-19-22-25 to warm up - I kid you not!!!!!
We can but dream I suppose....!

 :eek3:

[gollum]

I have seen that campus board and got a nose bleed just thinking about being that high. (Altough to be honest it didn't have any holds on it at the time)

[dave]

sounds like a rigid bachar ladder.

i woudld like to see someone to real-thing-style doubles 3up 2down all the way up it.

[dobbin]

i woudld like to see someone to real-thing-style doubles 3up 2down all the way up it.

On one arm!

[mark]

On one arm!

I have a friend in the US who used to be able to campus on one arm. Never heard of anyone else who can. Is there anyone?

[Paz]

The Higg slipped off doing the third consecutive one arm campus move.

[dave]

On one arm!

yeah, doing double one one arm would be quite a feat, not to mention requiring exposure to nuclear waste during pregnancy.

don't J-note do a one arm snatch on the campus board on t'real ting?

[dobbin]

Our very own Gollum can do it (on the big rungs at leeds which it might be possible to sit on! :wink:  :wink: )

[Adam Lincoln]

Our very own Gollum can do it (on the big rungs at leeds which it might be possible to sit on! :wink:  :wink: )

On the big rungs, same as at Leeds, ive seen someone drop down double handed from 7 to 1, and almost 8-1...

Nice way to get injured

[dobbin]

Its not that Kerazee Steven Jeffrey dude from the states is it?

[Adam Lincoln]

Its not that Kerazee Steven Jeffrey dude from the states is it?

How do you know?!  :?

[dave]

the one he does on the high life is radio rental! :shock:

[Adam Lincoln]

the one he does on the high life is radio rental! :shock:

Ahh, couple of mates of mine saw him do it once and then, came to the wall to try and re live the move. They managed 7 to 1(my pb is 6-1)

[mark]

Its not that Kerazee Steven Jeffrey dude from the states is it?

Nope. He's not the guy I know who could one-arm campus. Amazing thing is the guy I know weighs about 15 stone, is as wide as he is tall and looking at him you think there is just no way he should be able to climb at all hard. But he's quite spectacularly strong. At least, 'was', until he got dropped by accident off a route, broke both legs and gave up climbing.

[dave]

i used to climb with a lad who had a spry about going indoor bouldering with a non-climbing mate once. the guy had never climbed or don gymnastics or owt like that, was shite at the actual climbing but was throwing laps on the campus board, dropping all kindza shizzle.

[gollum]

Our very own Gollum can do it (on the big rungs at leeds which it might be possible to sit on!   )

This is very much a party trick, but could always do 1-3 on RH and usually on LH. Best effeort in terms of 1-2-3 etc is up to 6. However, at the moment weak as a kitten, but training hard again. :D  :D

[Percy B]

OK boys....me 45 degree beast is fully fitted up with clean grips, and it looks proper bo, I tell thee...........
In response to the other bits on this thread, I watched the Chabot campus all the way up and down the big board in Aix, two rungs at a time - but with both hands. Now I could have been very impressed if he'd done it with only the one arm!!! (It still doesn't excuse him from wearing batty boy trousers at their team training days though!)
And as for Dave and his 'one armed snatch', my mind boggles :shock:

Latest news on the rest of the woody is that I'll clean the rest of the holds in the next few days, and turn the stepped 45 board into a proper systems board within the next few weeks - just as soon as I've got all my symetrical grips and wooden rungs sorted!!!![/i]

[dave]

word doggs, i rolled with my shit off safety to check da woody tonite, i can confim it is indeed bo of the most proper kind. Nice work p-note. would still like to see some of those big holds slopers next to the entrance used on the steep boards.

Also the CD playa is once again fucked - even my magic cleaning CD (with little brushes attached) which usually does the trick didn't work at all. Can i get a rewind?

[dobbin]

Purely out of interest what is down with the G style trainin flavas bro?

(what music is to your taste?)

[dave]

last year i was playing CD1 from this at the woody cos there were some boring types who wouldn't appreciate anything a bit harder/faster:
headrush
but that was more a compromise than anything else. If i was in there on my own (or training at home) i would probably play this, this, this or something by these. Of course something like this is better for a laid back session.

[tommytwotone]

Music at walls, I just wish I could get to Sheff to benefit from Dave's bangin' choons, or indeed the West Coast flava.

Spent most of last winter / early spring going to Wirksworth, a great little wall with the exception that because it's in a sports centre they usually pipe Now 69 or whatever chart shizzle is popular into the wall. Hence the slightly weird sensation of trying to get psyched with "Reach" by S Club 7 pumping from the speakers  :evil:

Fortunately one of my posse has his woodie flava in effect, so I rolled down there with my shit off safety ready to bust a cap in it's ass. The new Massive Attack album's pretty goos for training to, but I wouldn't recommend Chill Out by the KLF, as it's a bit of a Ronseal job.

[Paz]

In a similar vain a while back at one of the World champs the compere announced, and now climber Y from Ukraine, then the music kicked in with Tragedy! by Steps, just what you want.

[Bubba]

The new Massive Attack album's pretty goos for training to.

Was listening to this in the car this morning - bit too downtempo for me to train to. Need something a bit more energetic...

[dave]

I once went into the woody and Mo was trining to a tape of The Smiths. Fuck me, i don't know how could muster the will to live, never mind train listening to that shite!!! :shock: I was ready to reach for the noose by the end of my warm up.

[Percy B]

Cheers for the feedback folks. The CD playa is indeed completely fooked - I blame the chalk dust as it happens fairly regularly. Oh well, time to dig out all your old Def Leppard tapes as the cassette thing still works - hence the Overlord playing his Smiths compilation tapes. It sounds like you caught him on an up-beat perky night, Dave, as normally he trains to Marilyn Manson, The Ministry, a wide selection of Bluegrass classics he bought in Juarez, Captain Beefheart and George Formby! (you could say he has an Eclectic taste in music)
The holdz slopers are on the main bouldering wall at the minute, as I'm resetting all the problems and they work better on my big board.
I've not been slacking with the rest of the woody, just snowed under with work at present. Should be on with the rest of it in the next week or two - just as soon as Dan French comes up with new symetrical grips for my system board! I can hardly wait to symetrically injure myself on it :wink:

[dave]

any idea when the system board is gonna happen yet?

as far as the stereo goes, i recon a transparent-plastic velcro flap over the front of the shelf would keep out most of the shit from the CD playa. or just buy and small amp and a 3.5mm-phono lead and let everyone just bring in and plug in thier own cd playas/minidiscs, then theres no maintainence.

is the cragx board getting reset or do i get get to keep my party pieces for a bit longer?

[1515]

can google "one arm campus"  there's a video.