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Font 8b- how many UK climbers? (Read 74799 times)

Andy B

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#50 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 10:03:17 am
out of interest, what percentage of those on the list's 8b/s are entirely situated in the helvetic republic?

From a quick look down GCW's last list only one person on there has only climbed 8b in Switerland.

r-man

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#51 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 10:04:03 am
http://www.boulderrausch.de/video_riverbed.ht
Stew Watson has done another 8B problem other than the not generally considered to be 8B Schule. The Riverbed at Avers, although I know nothing about this problem.

You've just looked at 8a.nu haven't you? Try clicking All Ascents, and you'll see more 8b's, including Voyager.

Here's a video of Fabion Christof on Riverbed. http://www.boulderrausch.de/video_riverbed.htm

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Dave Barrans has done 8ball. Here's a video:

http://davebarrans.blogspot.com/2008/02/8-ball.html

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Didn't Full Circle get downgraded recently?

http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2008/07/full-circle-and-8c-dreaming.html

dave

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#52 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 10:10:15 am
Dave Barrans has done 8ball. Here's a video:

http://davebarrans.blogspot.com/2008/02/8-ball.html

as i said above, isn't this regarded as 8a+ these days?

what about Mo Overfield Mo Problems? whats the bohemian grove thing regarded as, and dind;t he also do some ill shit in hueco or something?

Jaspersharpe

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#53 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 10:12:27 am
On the 8B+ and above tip, does this look about right.......?

Matt Birch- The Swarm?
Tim Clifford- Singularity
Andy Earl- Monk Life?
John Gaskins- Do you have to ask?
Tyler Landman- Jade etc etc etc
Steve McClure- Close of Business?
Ben Moon- Voyager SS
Mickey Paige- Kheops Assis
Rich Simpson- Staminaband/ Pump up the Power
Malc Smith-  Monk Life
Paul Smitton- Staminaband/ Pump up the Power

Not sure whether Staminaband/PUTP should be included or not. 8c+ route grade instead? I don't know.

R-man, not 8a.spew, I saw it on his blog.
http://stewartwatsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2008/06/magic-wood.html

r-man

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#54 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 10:20:57 am
Chris Davies has done East Coker, 8B+

Close of Business gets 8B? in the guide.

Steve Dunning has done Dreamtime, 8B+
« Last Edit: August 05, 2008, 10:27:21 am by r-man »

Greg C

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#55 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 10:51:17 am
Quick point on Anesthesia for the benefit of "The Bonse": Whilst I'm quite happy to accept a downgrade of this line from an ascensionist, it has only had three legit ascents - Gaskins, Nick Clement and myself (all locals who took numerous sessions to climb it). So perhaps it's not quite the "path" you make out.

Kingy

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#56 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 11:12:41 am
Anesthesia ... it has only had three legit ascents

Please forgive my ignorance - is a legitimate ascent one that does not use heel hooks? I have no problem with eliminates, lord knows I have climbed enough of 'em myself!

dave

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#57 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 11:18:07 am
I thought Jonny-G uses a heel on stickit vid.

Adam Lincoln

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#58 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 11:20:24 am
Anesthesia ... it has only had three legit ascents

Please forgive my ignorance - is a legitimate ascent one that does not use heel hooks? I have no problem with eliminates, lord knows I have climbed enough of 'em myself!

Maybe not starting in right place? Or rocking more on to it for a rest than you should?

Jaspersharpe

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#59 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 11:21:43 am
Think it's more to do with not missing out a hard move by starting in the wrong place. Or summat.

Beat me to it Adam.  :)

GCW

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#60 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 11:26:01 am
It's 8a+ if you do the Stick It start, pulling on after you should and thus avoiding moves.

Greg C

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#61 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 11:34:08 am
I don't want to start degrading other peoples ascents but the fact that the line has had quite a few sends seems to have given the impression that it is easy for the grade/over-graded - it may well be. But the fact is it was originally climbed (and graded) as a lip traverse (i.e. hands stick to the lip) and some ascensionists have mantled above the lip for the central section, negating a very power draining section and giving the opportunity for a marginal rest, thus decreasing the overall difficulty of the link.

Perhaps "only had three legit ascents" was a bit of an unfair way of putting it, but you get my point. Oh and to clarify I'm pretty sure Gaz and Ian both started in the correct place.

Greg C

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#62 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 11:40:47 am
The fact is that both Ian, Gaz and Mark are well capable of climbing the correct version and have done numerous other 8b's and therefore probably don't give two hoots - I wouldn't if I was them. I was merely trying to give a more informed view in response to Lee's visual downgrade. Like I say it may well be 8a+, I haven't climbed enough at this level to know.

Doylo

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#63 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 11:56:40 am
very flattering to be named amongst all these brilliant climbers but alas i have not ticked the magic grade yet.reckon i ve got ten years to do it though.its a marathon not a sprint! danny cattell defo deserves to be in the club with louis armstrong-a true talent! hock hasn t yet but is more than capable.nodder did electric ant in swizzy.whether this is true eight b i do not know.haven t seen it! its true we have a lot of talent in britain.

Greg C

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#64 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 12:10:01 pm
its true we have a lot of talent in Britain.

Hey Lee, that would have been a much better argument for getting me off the list.  ;)

I have just watched Gaz's vid of Anesthesia again, and I'm happy to accept that the sequence Nick, Gaskins and I used was a less efficient sequence and it would be hard to discount Gaz and Ian's method, as we, the local trio, all used one heel on the central edge and therefore could not say we didn't use any heels on the lip. That said keeping as low as possible all the way (as per the original sequence) is harder and more sustained.

Dance Variation has to be on the list.

Doylo

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#65 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 12:27:07 pm
liam desroy did bloodsports and great shark hunt but downgraded them both.another one to look out for.god knows how many 8bs his mate micky has actually done.he s phenomenal!

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#66 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 12:35:35 pm
Interesting that 3 years ago we struggled find 100 UK boulderers who had climbed 8a, now we are gradually heading to 50 that have done 8b. 
The inexorable march of improving standards.

Jaspersharpe

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#67 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 12:38:25 pm
Has Crimping Arthur climbed 8B?  :-\

neil h

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#68 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 12:42:15 pm
liam desroy did bloodsports and great shark hunt but downgraded them both.another one to look out for.god knows how many 8bs his mate micky has actually done.he s phenomenal!


true. i have witnesed them both crushin 8a+ in not very good conditions and in a few tries, so 8bcant be that hard for them both

dave

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#69 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 12:51:15 pm
Interesting that 3 years ago we struggled find 100 UK boulderers who had climbed 8a

Nah, we pissed it, there were loads, and that was only counting those who people on here knew.

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#70 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 01:00:19 pm
Tom Newman has done Bloodsport. As mentioned above the grade is perhaps 8a+ not 8b?

GCW

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#71 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 01:05:25 pm
Nah, we pissed it, there were loads, and that was only counting those who people on here knew.

As the man in orthotic shoes said, "I stand corrected".

Paul B

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#72 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 01:29:32 pm
Quick point on Anesthesia for the benefit of "The Bonse": Whilst I'm quite happy to accept a downgrade of this line from an ascensionist, it has only had three legit ascents - Gaskins, Nick Clement and myself (all locals who took numerous sessions to climb it). So perhaps it's not quite the "path" you make out.

It's not a path, lee told me this and I went expecting to completely crush it and I found one absolute stopper move really early on, however this line seems to have evolved a bit and get climbed numerous different ways?

Whyatt

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#73 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 01:45:33 pm
Jamie cassidy F.A directors cut

GCW

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#74 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 05, 2008, 01:52:05 pm
8b or above

Paul B- Voyager
Matt Birch- The Swarm
Jordan Buys- Isla de Encanta
Jamie Cassidy- Director's Cut
Danny Cattell- Louis Armstrong
Greg C- Anesthesia
Nick Clement- Anesthesia
Tim Clifford- Singularity
Chris Davies- Daisy from Concrete
Steve Dunning- High Fidelity
Neil Dyer- Silk Cut
Andy Earl- High Fidelity
Mark Katz- Isla de Encanta
John Gaskins- Isla de Encanta
Tyler Landman- The Ace
Dave MacLeod- Pressure
Steve McClure- Close of Business
Jerry Moffatt- The Ace
Ben Moon- High Fidelity
Si Moore- Nutin' but Sunshine
Dave Noden- Full Circle
Mickey Paige- Kheops Assis
Gaz Parry- Isla de Encanta
Ryan Pasquill- Spectre
James Pearson- General Disarray
Tom Peckitt- Real Keelhaul
Rich Simpson- Malc's Start
Malc Smith-  The Ace
Paul Smitton- Staminaband/ Pump up the Power
Unc- Gourmandise
Ian Vickers- Anesthesia
Stewart Watson- The Riverbed
Terrace Ghost- General Disarray

8a+/8b
Dave Barrans- 8ball
Ben Bransby- 8ball
Liam Desroy- Great Shark Hunt
Huffy?
Geoff Landman?
Jason Myers- Brad Pit original sequence
Sean Myles?
Tom Newman- Bloodsport
Dan Varian- Bigger Belly




8b+ or above
Matt Birch- The Swarm
Tim Clifford- Singularity
Chris Davies- East Coker
Steve Dunning- Dreamtime
Andy Earl- Monk Life
John Gaskins- Walk Away SDS
Tyler Landman- Jade
Ben Moon- Voyager SS
Mickey Paige- Kheops Assis
Rich Simpson- Staminaband/ Pump up the Power
Malc Smith-  Monk Life
Paul Smitton- Staminaband/ Pump up the Power
« Last Edit: August 05, 2008, 02:20:45 pm by GCW, Reason: 8ball moved to 8a+/8b just for Dave. Even though it was italicised anyway ;-) »

 

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