[slackline]

Has Paul Higginson climbed 8b?

What does Pool of Bethesda get?

8a+

[benpritch]

john welford - superman sit down!

[SA Chris]

ignore me.

[fashionguru]

Sav?  not sure

Zillion Dollar Sadist was given 8a+/b, and is still unrepeated so Sav may be another.

This is not quite true Im affraid.

Mike Adams made a very fast repeat of the problem 19 mins in fact from starting to clean the problem to completing it.

How do we know well I took a shoot of him cleaning and also loads of his ascent.

He said regards the grade if I rember correctley (which I prob dont) he did not have a clue as it was his style of climbing.

This was  on a trip last year when he also did My Evil Twin sandy hills, Kyla and the rest of the stuff at Porthlene and then onto cummingston where he also cleared up.

Was not reported as is normal with Mike but I did email D. Mc and he said he would have to go and have a look next time he was down

Tony Simpson

[fashionguru]

8b or above
Mike Adams- The Ace
Paul Bennett- Voyager
Matt Birch- The Swarm
Keith Bradbury- Gourmandise
Jordan Buys- Isla de Encanta
Jamie Cassidy- Director's Cut
Danny Cattell- Louis Armstrong
Greg Chapman- Anesthesia
Nick Clement- Anesthesia
Tim Clifford- Singularity
Chris Davies- Daisy from Concrete
Steve Dunning- High Fidelity
Neil Dyer- Silk Cut
Andy Earl- High Fidelity
Mark Katz- Isla de Encanta
John Gaskins- Isla de Encanta
Tyler Landman- The Ace
Dave MacLeod- Pressure
Steve McClure- Close of Business
Jerry Moffatt- The Ace
Ben Moon- High Fidelity
Si Moore- Nuthin' but Sunshine
Jason Myers- Brad Pit Original Sequence (honorary for being a wad)
Dave Noden- Full Circle
Mickey Paige- Kheops Assis
Gaz Parry- Isla de Encanta
Ryan Pasquill- Spectre and The Ace
James Pearson- General Disarray
Tom Peckitt- Real Keelhaul
Rich Simpson- Malc's Start
Malc Smith-  The Ace
Paul Smitton- Staminaband/ Pump up the Power
Dan Varian- Zerberus
Ian Vickers- Anesthesia
Stewart Watson- The Riverbed

8a+/8b
Richard Ames- Nana Blanca
Dave Barrans- 8ball
Ben Bransby- 8ball
Liam Desroy- Great Shark Hunt
Huffy?
Jeff Landman- Freshly Squeezed?
Jason Myers- Brad Pit original sequence
Sean Myles?
Tom Newman- Bloodsport
Dan Varian- Bigger Belly



8b+ or above
Matt Birch- The Swarm
Tim Clifford- Singularity
Chris Davies- East Coker
Steve Dunning- Dreamtime
Andy Earl- Monk Life
John Gaskins- Walk Away SDS
Tyler Landman- Jade
Ben Moon- Voyager SS
Mickey Paige- Kheops Assis
Rich Simpson- Staminaband/ Pump up the Power
Malc Smith-  Monk Life
Paul Smitton- Staminaband/ Pump up the Power

Mike Adams has also done 8ball, Voygas(if thats how its spelt) magic woods, Speedway sitstart (which he now reckons is def 8b) Roach Abbey

n thats not bad for a full time worker, he prob done more but my memory is crap for names etc.

He also did Cherry Falls at Almscliff (think earlier this year) he reckons this is very hard for the grade.

Tony Simpson

[fashionguru]

sorry guys dont know how the last bit got mixed up in a quote.

T

[TomP]

Cherry Falls is absolutely nails for the grade. Do you know his method. Did he keep a hee-toe in all the way?

[GCW]

This is not quite true Im affraid.

Mike Adams made a very fast repeat of the problem 19 mins in fact from starting to clean the problem to completing it.

Thanks, that's interesting to know.

[slackline]

Whats this '8b-' grade, is it like V8+ 

[GCW]

No.

[nik at work]

Tom have you done the Gaskins 8a thing to the left of Cherry Falls? Looks tricky....

[Stubbs]

Good to hear about a cherry falls repeat, is that the 4th after Clifford, Gray and Davies or have some other wads nipped in?

[Paul B]

Theres a video of stu watson hitting the last hold repeatedly, I wonder if he stuck it eventually?

[Dolph]

Mike Adams has also done 8ball, Voygas(if thats how its spelt) magic woods, Speedway sitstart (which he now reckons is def 8b) Roach Abbey

n thats not bad for a full time worker, he prob done more but my memory is crap for names etc.

He also did Cherry Falls at Almscliff (think earlier this year) he reckons this is very hard for the grade.

Tony Simpson

[/quote]

Wow! think i'll add my two pennys worth

I think its worth pointing out that with 8 ball rather than finishing as for soft on the G i stayed on the left side of the arete. this is a 7b+ not a 7 b like Soft on the G, so i don't think it changes the grade. The reason for this was that i prefered the slappy moves rather than the bunched (for me) hand swop into and undercut.

Voygas might be 8b in some poeples books but as we all know in Britain its only 8a+

Speedway is very hard but is very mortho and is essentially and eliminate on a sensitive crag.

Cherry Falls is absolutely nails for the grade. Do you know his method. Did he keep a hee-toe in all the way?

Cherry falls took me a similar amount of time and effort to climb as with the ace (ie 2 years). I climbed these two line within two weeks of each other(A very srong time for me).  My sequence was to pull up with the foot lock to the crimp. Then i released the jam got the left foot out left on a dishy foothold. The right foot  importantly went into a specific part of the break that forms a corner bend. This allowed me to pop out to the dish pocket with the left hand and on hitting it i got a toe hook with my right foot that kept me on. From here i could gather my self for the final pop to the break and holding that bas%@&d of a swing, which is still the crux.

Hope that clears things up a little

Oh and zillion dollar sadist is not 8b either that or i'm a beast, I know which one it is i'd say soft 8a+ at most. It is however a very good problem and is worth doing

[TomP]

Re: Cherry Falls - Impressive stuff!! I tried just dynoing to the break from the crimp but can't hold it. I'm going to concentrate on getting to the little dish out left I reckon. Anywhere else & that problem would be without doubt 8b....

[Paul B]

Anywhere else & that problem would be without doubt 8b....

I hope you mean if it wasn't in Britain, I wonder how many problems that would apply to.

[BenF]

Cherry falls took me a similar amount of time and effort to climb as with the Ace (ie 2 years). I climbed these two line within two weeks of each other(A very strong time for me).  

Such characteristic understatement Mick, it was a very good weekend indeed!  Repeat the Ace on Sunday, get married on Monday. 

At least you could concentrate on the ceremony after shifting that burden.  I was worried that you'd lapse into thinking about sequences and microbeta when you should have been saying some kind of vow to Debs.

[Ru]

microbeta

Nice! I like new climbing vocab. That's going in the dictionary.

[BenF]

Nice! I like new climbing vocab. That's going in the dictionary.

It's "Jennings Microbeta" to give it it's full title.  Refers to beta so specific it often requires identifying individual crystals on footholds and using them as oppposed to other seemingly identical crystals just millimetres away from the specified crystal.  It does actually work on occasion.  It seems that some crystals are better than other crystals...

[SA Chris]

And I aint sipping if it aint Cristal.

[nik at work]

To avoid confusion can I just point out that "Jennings Microbeta" is completely unconeccted to the individual "Nik Jennings". Anybody hoping to glean very specific beta from a climbing session with the aforementioned individual will instead have to be satisfied with "a bit of arm waving" and the suggestion that you need to "just stand up".

This has been a public service announcement.

[BenF]

This is a BBC style public service apology announcement to all people called Jennings apart from Andy Jennings (who deserves neither apology or attention to be honest).

BenF would like to apologise for any offence caused to various people called Jennings in the UK climbing community.  I was not referring to you in my previous post although I can see now how I may have suggested that I was.  Please carry on with your arm waving and useful comments regarding standing up.