[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Yo,
   a couple of years ago i built a wall in the garage now because the garage is vertically challenged the best use of space i was able to achieve was a wall with two full sheets on top of each other (landscape) and another half sheet cut to a triangle shape to fit in the apex of the roof.  this yielded an angle of 55°. this works ok since i have a set of HIT strips mounted on the right hand side of the board.  I also have various jugs plastered on the board.

I think the main question is do you think (apart from the HIT training) it will be possible to get some pheasible training from this angle or is it too steep. When i say too steep i probably mean too steep for my currently level of finger strength etc.  I also have access to a 45° board at broughton.

Cheers
Tim

[account_inactive]

Like you say the height may compromise your climbing movement.  It's hard to get psyched for one 2 move problems all the time.  The board I had in my cellar was only 8ft long and I mainly used it for systems training and deadhangs (with feet on).  Get some smaller systems holds as the HIT strips are jugs and use the longer board at Broughton for actual climbing.  It's a great angle to work power and core, but not for finger strength or movement skills

Hope this helps

D

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Dylan,
      well to be honest it wasnt the height so much as the angle and if it was too steep to be able to put anything other than positive jugs on it. and thus how much use would it be for this.

I find the HIT strips are quite good training but need to use quite a bit of weight for some of the holds. Also the angle makes the holds really bite into the skin. Totally need to tape beforehand.

i think the kickboard is about a foot high and the wall height is probably 3 metres at its height. so i can get a few moves in at that angle. not many mind but its certainly more than just pull on make one move and slap for the top.




Cheers
Tim

[dave]

that height of wall is ample. my cellar board was 45deg and 9foot long and you could easily do 4-5 move problems if you went diagonally. the main problem si you can't do much powerful stuff with feet cutting loose until you get towards the top, whcih does have its dividends for body tension.

on a 55deg board you're going to be on bigger holds which may have the added benefit of being less prone to finger injury. maybe have a set of poor footholds to use with big handholds, and then if you want to use poorer/smaller handholds then allow hands-for-feet.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Dave,
      cool good to know its worth persevering.  so apart from buying resins are there any recommendations you could give for best place to source some suitable wood for holds. more specifically does anyone know of what types of wood work without needing to be shaped etc.

Cheers
Tim

[dave]

for wood just head to a timber yard of builders merchant, most of them have a bin of offcuts you can take for nothing or a nominal fee. or find a relative over the age of say 50, cos people that age have generally accumulated a cellar/shed/garage full of wood offcuts they will never use.

[account_inactive]

I find the HIT strips are quite good training but need to use quite a bit of weight for some of the holds

My point exactly

Sorry I didn't realise you had 3 metres of climbing length.  Lucky sod.  As Dave said that's WAY enough space to climb problems. 

I've heard that spruce is the stuff to go for with regards to wooden holds.  Try the off cut bin at your local timber yard and failing that go ferreting in some skips

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

with regards to setting the wooden holds do people glue+nail/screw them on? the wall is T-nutted. but i was thinking the wooden holds are generally fixed with move able t-nuts.

(actually did the t-nutting a little wrong as i didn't fasten the back of the t=-nuts on the reverse of the board with some screws so find a few of them are twisting in the back. )

on the point of the HIT strips does anyone on here think they are quite useful?

[dave]

On my wall I t-nutted big wooden holds and smaller stuff (crimps etc) i screwed on. the problem with t-nutting is you need a realy big countersinking bit to make them tidy, whcih i didn't have, and all the bolts I had were the non-washered type.

Whatever you do DONT nail or glue them on, its asking for trouble and a nightmare when you want to move them.

I didn't have screws securing any t-nuts ans never had a problem with spinning, they are designed not to need screws. when hammered in right they should not spin unless you've hit some kinda void in the plywood, or you've been a bit careless/heavyhanded shoving bolts in (i.e. you may have pushed too hard when screwing in a bolt and pushed the nut out of the back of the board) - i did this a couple of times at first but could get behind it easy to hammer em back in.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Dave,
       cheers thanks for the beta. i think some of the problems with the T-nuts is when i hammered them into the drilled holes. I appeared to have incompetantly hammered them slightly off centre so they are either not flush or took some plywood into the hole with them which needs removing from the thread of the t-nut.

think ill buy a set of those cheap positive mini holds from decalthlon as well as i think i should be able to use them, to go in addition of the 30 types of jugs i have on the board.

Cheers
Tim

[dave]

if you've got some off-square nuts in you can often rectify it as long as you can carefully get a bolt threaded into it, or at least stick something through to twist it a bit squarer (screwdriver etc - then put a hold on the bolt, thread the bolt in and as you tighten the bolt it should pull the t-nut square again.

[Paul B]

think ill buy a set of those cheap positive mini holds from decalthlon as well as i think i should be able to use them, to go in addition of the 30 types of jugs i have on the board.

They break easily mind.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

damn, you sure mate? ive got a couple of sets of the decathlon jugs and no problem sofar. however im not a bouldering wad either so maybe you just crushed them?

thanks for the info.

what would you recommend as a warm up before you start woprking the board? pullups and fingerboard? or just easy problems.

Cheers
Tim

[account_inactive]

You could always try:

www.slapholds.com
www.bleaustone.com
www.customholds.com