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Doylo nails best limestone 7b+ in Britain! (Read 6799 times)

superfurrymonkey

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Was down there again today when a certain someone cleaned up the sitter and the dyno in one go !!!! :thumbsup:

Doylo

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was that ding dong again? spill the beans.good effort!

Kim

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Nice one Doylo. How do I find this problem, assuming I've never been below Marine Drive before? Take it from today's ascents it's steep enough to stay dry? Or maybe it's just not been raining down there...

superfurrymonkey

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Aye twas ding dong scaring everyone with his highball antics, and I still can't hit the jug feel really stretched trying to go off the undercut I think the dyno might be the only way I'm going to do it. :-\

Doylo

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Nice one Doylo. How do I find this problem, assuming I've never been below Marine Drive before? Take it from today's ascents it's steep enough to stay dry? Or maybe it's just not been raining down there...

Hey Kim, just drive around the marine drive to the point where the road splits, the lefthand fork goes up to the top of the Orme, stay on the righthand fork and park beneath the wall on the left. Walk along the path (in the opposite direction of Parisellas) until you come to an obvious gap in the wall (not very far and obvious). Follow the path down as far as it goes then trend leftwards, the tricky thing is knowing where to descend. Basically you descend onto the wavecut platform when the path dips and to keep going you would have to go up. Flashpoint is the first problem you come to. I'm sure Panton can give better directions, he does write guidebooks after all!

Pantontino

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The only thing I would add is "Walk along the road (in the opposite direction of Parisellas)" and that once you've dropped down to a point above the wave cut platforms walk leftwards for approximately 150m. It is obvious where to descend; just look for the area of jet black rock surrounded by bright green algae. Climb down a clean nose of black rock next to a strange dripping algae grotto (proper science fiction fantasy stuff!).

Apparently Ding Dong reckoned V9/7cish for the sitter; he also did another stand up line:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=365

 

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