[andy_e]

Title says it all really. Psyched to check it out, have ordered Gabbrofest which sounds like it's in an interesting format...

[GCW]

Just wander up into the Coire, most of the ace lines are obvious with a little exploration.

Enjoy the rain and the the midges.

[andy_e]

No midges at all up here! Must be something to do with the gale-force winds and torrential rain 

[Fiend]

If you fail to repeat / find any Si O' Bollox V14s, we'll set dense on you on your return.

[andy_e]

Did a new problem today- about 7a- it's called "Poustie vs. O'Conor" and there are a few other problems on the same buttress. The actual buttress is above Loch Cill Chroisd on intermediate intrusive rock, not very high but the start is a roof providing a few good moves... Poustie vs. O'Conor is so-called because it's an eliminate lip traverse on Skye... Photos to follow.

[GCW]

I know where you mean.  I did a few problems there years ago.  If you put your back to the block and look at some blocks, ther's a not very obvious arete, undercut at the base.  The stand up is a good problem at 7b but the sitter is a sick hard sequence of throws between tip destroying crystal crimps.  The crux is a windmill power pop to the sloper at the start of the stand up.  A sneaky right toe minge helps on this move.  This sitter is one of the best problems in Scotland.  Felt about 8b, maybe 8b+.  But it needs lank to succeed on, so average height it may be 8c.

Here's a pic:

[webbo]

by heck.i know the these problems,i'm sure i did that sitter one wet day whilst on a hull thursday road club sailing trip,whilst recovering from a broken collar bone.
didn't have my rock shoes with me so did it in my wellies which may have made it slightly easier.

[andy_e]

Went today. Got destroyed by the gabbro. Go and do Snake Attack, it's an amazing problem! Do it! Do it now!

[SA Chris]

That rock is brutal isn't it!

[andy_e]

Well, an hour's drive, 25 minutes walk in, 2 problems and an hour trying other things, followed by 15 mins walk out and an hour's drive back doesn't really seem worth it. but I enjoyed it though! Great setting, keen to get back, if this persistant mist ever goes away...

[coolboy]

I reckon that problem GC, looks like a sick dumby 5a!   

ha ha

tom

[coolboy]

How have you got on in skye andie?

I tried very quick afternoon at boulders at base of coire lagan but was in summer and got wet and midged then!

have you been to carn liath?

tom

[andy_e]

I've only managed to get out to Coire Lagan once and had a relatively unsuccessful day getting torn apart by the Gabbro. Apart form that I've not been climbing because I've been way too busy mapping. I'd love to get the time to check these places more but I've not got long left up here now

[GCW]

Better get on the rock then.  It's a class place, even ignoring the bouldering.

[SA Chris]

Have you managed to go have a look at Kilt Rock / Kilt Falls yet? The rocks around Staffin are pretty amazing.

[Will Hunt]

Take a trip to the Cioch. Its rad.

[andy_e]

Have you managed to go have a look at Kilt Rock / Kilt Falls yet?

No, and I doubt I'll have time now, which is a shame because they look pretty cool in the pictures...

[dave]

you andi, any noise in general on the state of the weather/cloud/etc cuillin ridge-wise?

[GCW]

You going for the traverse, Dave?

[dave]

it all depends if i can get any beta on a sequence, what holds are in, or if theres any idiotic dropdown moves at the end.

[GCW]

There's an idiotic drop down just before the hardest bit, which is going back up to height again.  Fairly thrutchy, but it's good to get past it- you know you're in with a chance, although it's far from guaranteed.  Quite conditions dependant.

[dave]

nice, i just hope i don't get wronghanded and have to reverse to the start to swap.

[GCW]

Should be OK, it's more about your footwork.

[SA Chris]

Aye, the foothold are all "on".

[andy_e]

Weather's looking pretty terrible for the next few days now- it would have been ok. out of 6 weeks I'd say we've had 13 days of decent weather.