[erm]

So I know that you all pretty much hate Horst's stuff (He isn't a sports scientists and some of the stuff he suggests is just plain old balls with injury just waiting to happen).

However what do you like/think is good? What texts are worth reading, not just climbing specific ones but also more general texts on getting stronger/fitter/faster from the world of sport sciences?

[Plattsy]

When I read the title I thought you were talking about text messages for some reason. 

Alot of what Dave McCleod has to say on his website is very good (in my uneducated humble opinion).

[Somebody's Fool]

If you can get hold of OTE 96, there's a marvellous motivational piece by Jimbo Kimber. It disguises itself as a snapshot of a day's bouldering on Portland, but, on a subconcious level, it contains much everything you need to know about bouldering at the cutting edge.

[erm]

I have read MacLeod's stuff already, along with lots of useful stuff on other sites.

The problem I find though is that either the material is very broad and covers principles but not how to put together an actual routine or the material discuss only individual exercises but again not how to put together an actual routine.

Oh well I suppose I shall have to carry on looking on my own. 

[Paul B]

I'm sure if you post up some goals and your initial thoughts/plans people would be willing to offer their advice and sort it out.

[tommytwotone]

I'm currently following the Jim book of training. It's a short volume I gleaned from another thread on here about training. I bet you know what it says...seems to be working though.

[erm]

Well goals wise I want to move up a couple of grades because I have come across a number of problems with really nice moves on them that I just can't find equivalents for at a my grade.

Programs wise all I really have is the 4321 from Horst which I get the impression isn't necessarily that good in general but certainly not for bouldering. Other than that I have no I ideas

I would identify my weaknesses as being contact strength and core strength. I can get to holds but then I just end up sitting using the lower hold to stay there or I just can't latch from a more dynamic move.

As it stands I can get some Fb6c and I am pretty solid below that.

I am unfamiliar with Jim's train guide?

[account_inactive]

I think Jim's training involves 

The 4321 is rubbish.  To be fair periodising your climbing is only worthwhile before a trip rather than year long for the average climber.  The best periodisation is by following the seasons and rock types.

There are basics that are included in Horst text that are useful.  Look at the section on strength types and in what order you should do them.  There is an alternative to this where you start (days) on low intensity and work up day by day to harder sessions and then rest.

Rest and volume of work are the most important aspects of strength training.  Mae sure you listen to your body!

For movement exercises look at The Self coached climber.  Useful stuff.  This has some insights into analysing your weaknesses. Another option is to hire a coach like myself for a session so that you have an objective opinion.

Good luck

[tj]

I'd second the vote for the 'Self Coached Climber'. As a bit of a technical numpty (and judging by the folk I see at the crag & wall, I'm not alone), it really helped me gain a biomechanical understanding of climbing movement. I wish someone had explained these fairly basic principles to me years ago, I'd certainly be climbing alot better. I reckon it's improved my reading of moves, hence my on-sighting is more consistent and I've got a better idea of the more efficient ways of solving harder moves.

It also meant that I realised that warm-ups and cool-downs could incorporate technical training, which meant I was more likely to do them thoroughly. Can only be a good thing.

I also think the emphasis on consolidation at a grade is pretty important, although I'm not 100% convinced by the 8-4-2-1 pyramid model. Also, it gives alot of ideas for individual training programs at a given grade.

[tommytwotone]

Sorry, I was being a touch facetious, though I have been following the Jim-patented 'do some pull-ups' workout (with some added frenchies) and it seems to be working.

[erm]

Thanks guys, I have gone ahead and ordered a copy of Self Coached Climber. I'll see where it gets me and maybe ask some questions later.

Any way, thanks very much.