[Pantontino]

Amazing first ascent from Doylo on Friday evening:



http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=363

And then another cracker just to the right from Matt Georgiou the day after:



http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=364

[dave]

that looks well brown. nice one doyloid.

[BenF]

Excellent stuff, all the stuff that's been reported so far looks awesome so I really should get down to the Sea View Wall pretty soon.  Good work guys. 

How tidal is the climbing and the approach by the way?

[Pantontino]

It is tidal, but only just.

[BenF]

Thanks Simon. 

[Pantontino]

I've just remembered Doylo's final comment:

"I'd have to say that it's of a similar quality to stuff like Surprise de Chef at Ailfroide, or maybe even Midnight Lightning!”

 

[BenF]

Wow!  I'm going to check the tide times right now...

[Bonjoy]

Looks great. Good work doyle!

[chris]

looks like there could be a sit start too?

thought this was mules little project.........

[Pantontino]

looks like there could be a sit start too?

Could be...

[T_B]

I've just remembered Doylo's final comment:

"I'd have to say that it's of a similar quality to stuff like Surprise de Chef at Ailfroide, or maybe even Midnight Lightning!”

 

Then <i>Prior to the ascent Chris abbed the line and glued the crux edge hold after it had broken on an early attempt.</i>. Classic. I love Britain.

[superfurrymonkey]

Check out the dyno from a couple of good holds above the undercut on flashpoint to the first jug, I'm crap at dyno's so didn't manage it.

[Adam Lincoln]

thought this was mules little project.........

It was! 

[Pantontino]

I've just remembered Doylo's final comment:

"I'd have to say that it's of a similar quality to stuff like Surprise de Chef at Ailfroide, or maybe even Midnight Lightning!”

 

Then <i>Prior to the ascent Chris abbed the line and glued the crux edge hold after it had broken on an early attempt.</i>. Classic. I love Britain.

What, so you think that the holds on Surprise de Chef etc have remained untainted/unchanged from when the boulder was first climbed on? Yeah, right.

[Adam Lincoln]

I've just remembered Doylo's final comment:

"I'd have to say that it's of a similar quality to stuff like Surprise de Chef at Ailfroide, or maybe even Midnight Lightning!”

 

Then <i>Prior to the ascent Chris abbed the line and glued the crux edge hold after it had broken on an early attempt.</i>. Classic. I love Britain.

Some would argue Midnight Lightnings classic status. Ive never seen a more slippery polished hold than the first good foothold on Midnight! It does take something away from the experience.!

[Doylo]

Yes Ben i would go at low tide. Flashpoint is only just tidal but the other stuff to the right is more tidal.
T.B yes unsurprisingly this problem that has never before been touched by human hand did have a loose hold. It no longer does.
Personally i think this problem is the limestone equivalent of many classic 7b+s that i have done abroad like Midnight, Surprise de Chef and Rubis Sur L'ongle (its certainly more interesting climbing than Rubis if not quite as stellar a visual line). Anyway this is a summer problem so get it while its hot. If anyones keen i'll certainly go bck to help with beta. Also the sitter will go at about 7c+ but is no big deal. Also shorties beware, i'm interested to see how climbers of a shorter stature will tackle this one. Enjoy!

[n_man]

Well said Adam L I'd much sooner climb this than Midnight. For climbing reasons, crowds and polish. Would totally recommend Tahoe 'just up the road' though.

[BenF]

Thanks Chris.  No doubt I will report back soon exactly how a slightly shorter person (but not exactly short) was completely shut down by this. 

Does this wall seep a little bit by the way?  Monolith seemed to think so but hey what does he know about anything other than bicep curls?

[Monolith]

Christopher has picked up a plum here. It looks stunning in the photos and even more immense in the flesh. Imagine if you relatively scaled LPT down to the constraints of the perfect boulder problem and this is it. Excellent shit.

[superfurrymonkey]

I've know the short mans way if anyones interested!

[BenF]

Yes please. 

Although I'd rather someone got rid of the rain so I can get down there tomorrow.

[Huffy]

Fantastic looking line Doyle.

I'll give you a bell when next in Wales/.

[superfurrymonkey]

Forecast looks promising for tomorrow, Neil Dyer put his heel in the same jug as you take with your left hand and rocked up into the undercut, simple as that 

[Doylo]

thats cool.this is how i first envisaged the sequence but it didn t work for me.i think its more powerful this way but probably less body tensiony.how many goes did it take him jamie,did he flash it? anyone else have a go?  it ll prob be getting wet soon with all this bloody rain.huff u slag,u got a new phone or what?

[superfurrymonkey]

He got it second go after trying it your way, I had a little play on it and found it was quite a stretch to the jug and was too short to start with right hand on pinchy side pull, it's a hard life being short when ur not that short.

[superfurrymonkey]

Was down there again today when a certain someone cleaned up the sitter and the dyno in one go !!!!

[Doylo]

was that ding dong again? spill the beans.good effort!

[Kim]

Nice one Doylo. How do I find this problem, assuming I've never been below Marine Drive before? Take it from today's ascents it's steep enough to stay dry? Or maybe it's just not been raining down there...

[superfurrymonkey]

Aye twas ding dong scaring everyone with his highball antics, and I still can't hit the jug feel really stretched trying to go off the undercut I think the dyno might be the only way I'm going to do it.

[Doylo]

Nice one Doylo. How do I find this problem, assuming I've never been below Marine Drive before? Take it from today's ascents it's steep enough to stay dry? Or maybe it's just not been raining down there...

Hey Kim, just drive around the marine drive to the point where the road splits, the lefthand fork goes up to the top of the Orme, stay on the righthand fork and park beneath the wall on the left. Walk along the path (in the opposite direction of Parisellas) until you come to an obvious gap in the wall (not very far and obvious). Follow the path down as far as it goes then trend leftwards, the tricky thing is knowing where to descend. Basically you descend onto the wavecut platform when the path dips and to keep going you would have to go up. Flashpoint is the first problem you come to. I'm sure Panton can give better directions, he does write guidebooks after all!

[Pantontino]

The only thing I would add is "Walk along the road (in the opposite direction of Parisellas)" and that once you've dropped down to a point above the wave cut platforms walk leftwards for approximately 150m. It is obvious where to descend; just look for the area of jet black rock surrounded by bright green algae. Climb down a clean nose of black rock next to a strange dripping algae grotto (proper science fiction fantasy stuff!).

Apparently Ding Dong reckoned V9/7cish for the sitter; he also did another stand up line:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=365