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Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 110267 times)

duncan

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#525 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 16, 2018, 05:08:02 pm
...Quite bold to lead with a low-ish thread and then unplaceable poor rpís above. Potential ground fall going to the break and maybe the move before. It was pretty smeggy conditions and very dirty at first but felt around f7b+/c


Soft-touch E6 then!

Dan Cheetham

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#526 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 16, 2018, 09:27:55 pm
Definitely not a soft touch, I had a look at the grade conversion charts and e6 goes up to 7c+ which surprised me. Itís got no logs on ukc so I wondered if anyone had done it on here

shark

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#527 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 16, 2018, 11:47:42 pm
Wouldnít be surprised if it hasnít been repeated.

Dan Cheetham

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#528 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 17, 2018, 03:04:12 am
Yeah, it must have been repeated loads of times as itís pretty polished under the dirt. Just thought Iíd post it up as a worthwhile but seemingly neglected route and assumed someone like yourself must have done it. Can imagine the rockstars of the 90ís did laps on it.

shark

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#529 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 17, 2018, 08:09:48 am
Can imagine the rockstars of the 90ís did laps on it.

Yeah laps on top rope maybe  :lol:

Thatís how the routes on that wall mainly got climbed and polished as it was used as a top rope / shunting venue.

Far too hard for hard for me as I didnít embrace headpointing and stuck to to ground upping routes (unless new routing obviously)

Dan Cheetham

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#530 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 17, 2018, 06:53:01 pm
It feels like a bold sport route really, stick a bolt in it and youíd have a quality 7b+. I wonder if a lot of the polish is from caving groups abseiling etc

Hydraulic Man

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#531 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 17, 2018, 06:58:08 pm
There is a bolt in it. An old 8mm cavers spit that was used for re-belay practice.

It protects the hard bit.......may have been filled in.....

Dan Cheetham

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#532 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 17, 2018, 07:25:46 pm
Thereís an old hole where that may have been but definitely no bolts now. So maybe bottom end e7?

Dan Cheetham

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#533 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 20, 2018, 05:26:23 pm
I cleaned / brushed snapdragon on Chee Tor yesterday. Great moves and good gear. Unfortunately I misread the crux so fell off getting into the undercuts by the thread. Pulled back on and was fine after that. Nice route!

Dan Cheetham

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#534 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 06, 2018, 07:32:10 am
Bit of phone in shoe footage of ĎAll systems goí to the right of Scarab. I redpointed it with pre placed (poor) RPís to protect a ground fall off the crux. Canít figure whether itís 7b+ or 7c but itís definitely quality climbing with great moves all the way. Well worth checking out if itís your bag. Must have been a pretty solid lead for the time in 1985!

Watch All systems go on Vimeo:


mark20

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#535 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 06, 2018, 09:58:49 pm
Nice one Dan, looks really good

Dan Cheetham

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#536 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 07, 2018, 07:44:49 am
Cheers Mark, Iíd be interested to hear what you think if you do it.

Hydraulic Man

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#537 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 11, 2018, 11:40:52 am
Rapture on Waterfall Buttress WCJ has been dusted down. 7bish on almost perfect rock after the start.

Shaded after 1.30 and very cool being so close to the waterfall.

Will Hunt

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#538 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 11, 2018, 07:28:02 pm
Not a recent thing and not my work but much of the dark wall at Trow Gill is clean, chalked, and ticked at the moment. I'm looking for a partner for this Saturday if anyone is up for it.

thekettle

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#539 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 13, 2018, 08:34:22 pm
Hollywood Bowl at Giggleswick North has had some cleaning and traffic on some of the lesser-trodden routes recently:
Divine Brown 7c+, Willywacker 7c, Superbowl 7c, Jorjas Connection 7b+. Accelerator 8b+ is clean and chalked with a new bolt in.

bigironhorse

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#540 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 22, 2018, 08:20:58 am
Cleaned Strawberries man at dyserth waterfall crag of the a55 yesterday. Have to say that it's a brilliant route, 8a to the right looks great too.

Doylo

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#541 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 22, 2018, 11:57:35 am
Nice one

DAVETHOMAS90

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#542 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 30, 2018, 03:54:53 am
Bit of phone in shoe footage of ĎAll systems goí to the right of Scarab. I redpointed it with pre placed (poor) RPís to protect a ground fall off the crux. Canít figure whether itís 7b+ or 7c but itís definitely quality climbing with great moves all the way. Well worth checking out if itís your bag. Must have been a pretty solid lead for the time in 1985!

Watch All systems go on Vimeo:

I always envisioned a Fisher-esque slap fest, rainbow Lycra and a bit of Venus in Furs from the ghetto blaster..

.. definitely no heel hooks, or elevator music - not if you ever wanted me to sign on for you.

 ;D

petejh

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#543 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 30, 2018, 07:58:14 am
Cleaned a ton of loose rock out of the crux pitch of Hamadryad in Twll Mawr while climbing it the other day so it's now only 'loose' instead of 'tottering'. Brambles still in-situ though.

Dan Cheetham

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#544 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 30, 2018, 06:01:33 pm

[/quote]

I always envisioned a Fisher-esque slap fest, rainbow Lycra and a bit of Venus in Furs from the ghetto blaster..

.. definitely no heel hooks, or elevator music - not if you ever wanted me to sign on for you.

 ;D
[/quote]

Haha, I did wonder if it was done with the heel or something a bit more Ďslappyí

Offwidth

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Dan Cheetham

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#546 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 11, 2018, 11:05:32 pm
I gave Dharma a clean on Thursday and went back to climb it today. Great route, bold 7c ish. I think the bottom and top pegs are a bit dodgy but the climbing is steady there. 2 of the middle 3 seem reasonable. It should stay clean for a bit, but a good north westerly would be best to reduce humidity. Beta vid below

Watch Dharma on Vimeo:

_

Kingy

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#547 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 12, 2018, 01:46:39 pm
Chuffin eck that's a long runout Dan! Looks like a trouser filler

Fiend

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#548 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 12, 2018, 06:19:48 pm
You can piss 7c Ted, get on the flash :D

Good cleaning choice, purple patch Dawes tick n all.

Dan Cheetham

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#549 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 12, 2018, 06:40:04 pm
Cheers Ted / Fiend, itís definitely flashable and while run out you probably wouldnít hit the floor off the final move to the ledge unless your belayer had a load of slack out. Still probably my top end in terms of risk.