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Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 272797 times)

highrepute

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#400 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 17, 2014, 11:30:30 am
Cleaned Green Chapel at Stanton in the Woods today. Not perfect but it is climbable.

Most of the SiTW circuit was looking clean and well chalked too.

did you look at eyes to the skies? I have designs on doing this at some point. Be nice to know someone else has had a go!

Johnny Brown

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#401 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 17, 2014, 12:30:22 pm
Eyes is typically a fairly quick job to clean compared to Green chapel, no moss just pine litter.

205Chris

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#402 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 17, 2014, 07:19:11 pm
Cleaned Green Chapel at Stanton in the Woods today. Not perfect but it is climbable.

Most of the SiTW circuit was looking clean and well chalked too.

did you look at eyes to the skies? I have designs on doing this at some point. Be nice to know someone else has had a go!

Ran out of time before I got a chance to look at / clean Eyes to the Skies. Hopefully get back there for it some point soon.

dave

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#403 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 19, 2014, 10:29:08 pm
Isla Grace at Froggatt is now in good condition and makes a techy font 6c+ highball. Close to the car for a quick evening hit...

Went and did this tonight, thanks guy for cleaning it up. Its deffo worth doing, despite the proximity to the road.


highrepute

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#404 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 20, 2014, 01:04:22 pm
Cleaned Green Chapel at Stanton in the Woods today. Not perfect but it is climbable.

Most of the SiTW circuit was looking clean and well chalked too.

did you look at eyes to the skies? I have designs on doing this at some point. Be nice to know someone else has had a go!

Ran out of time before I got a chance to look at / clean Eyes to the Skies. Hopefully get back there for it some point soon.

let me know if you do.

Bonjoy

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#405 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 20, 2014, 01:06:49 pm
As suggested by Kristain I've set up a new sticky thread for reporting when boulder probs and highballs have been cleaned up.

cofe

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#406 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 28, 2014, 07:03:02 pm
Not technically a route but I cleaned up Superbrook this morning.

I gave Superbrook its annual clean this evening, quite a lot of moss to remove. Just need a spell of dry weather now and it should be fine.

205Chris

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#407 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 28, 2014, 07:21:36 pm
Not technically a route but I cleaned up Superbrook this morning.
I gave Superbrook its annual clean this evening, quite a lot of moss to remove. Just need a spell of dry weather now and it should be fine.

Good work Cofe. More people should do this problem. I find it odd that stuff like Mossatrocity is carpeted in chalk year round while Superbrook sits quietly neglected.

There's some beta of a handsome chap sending this on Vimeo if anyone wants the numbers  ;)

cofe

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#408 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 28, 2014, 07:28:57 pm
I think it suffers from the toupée of grass and stuff which goes well back above it. Means it gets muckier quicker and dries slowly. Always thought it looks class but the one time I went to do it the top was wet. Proud line.

cheque

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#409 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 24, 2014, 10:41:50 am
Does anyone have any experience of cleaning spraypaint off grit?

Currently using the only option I can think of- stiff wooden bristled brush and elbow grease- but wondered if there was some kind of better solution.  :please:

Three Nine

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#410 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 24, 2014, 10:54:36 am
Laughing At the Rain at Craig-y-Biceps is now clean and good to go. If planning to try the 7c+ to the left then take a big brush and some gardening gloves.

Ru

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#411 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 24, 2014, 10:59:06 am
Laughing At the Rain at Craig-y-Biceps is now clean and good to go. If planning to try the 7c+ to the left then take a big brush and some gardening gloves.

Is it worth doing?

Three Nine

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#412 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 24, 2014, 11:07:26 am
Yes, if you happen to be down that way. Its roadside and not far from the tor. I'm not sure it was worth cleaning, but now its clean... Nice boulder on undercuts, jug, couple of moves of a kneebar (pad advised), ramble to the top on just about clean jugs.

Either warm up elsewhere or warm up on it, as could not be fucked to clean anything else there.

Also did Lets Get Fossilised at Beginners Wall that day (sun), and its been re-bolted and is clean and dry - worth doing if you haven't already. Few good moves.

kc

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#413 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 24, 2014, 02:01:00 pm

Also did Lets Get Fossilised at Beginners Wall that day (sun), and its been re-bolted and is clean and dry - worth doing if you haven't already. Few good moves.

Don't mention it!

Three Nine

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#414 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 24, 2014, 02:36:01 pm
And a very nice cleaning and bolting job it is too!

kc

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#415 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 25, 2014, 12:32:14 am
Santiano on the Nook now destined for instant popularity.
A provisional grade of 7a has been given.
On Sunday it was more like 7b as it had its first reascent for decades on slippy muddy gunge. Should get a bit more grippy.
N.B not my doing, but a fine effort indeed.

A team gave Lockless a scrub. Bit wet at the start still.

I gave the very overlooked but fine boulder route "The Dukes of Earl(Gray)" a scrub.
 Bolts are ok but the runout to the belay is quite silly, especially as the finishing jugs are choked with mud.
It really needs a two bolt belay bringing down (Rockfax topo is wrong) or stick clip a long sling off the single bolt belay.

Wood FT

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#416 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 25, 2014, 11:00:49 am
Sorry for the punter question, sort of off topic but the knowledge is here;

The last two bolt hangers on Esmerunga/Stung are well rusty, can I just replace the hangers? or is it sign the bolt itself is in need?

Keen to learn bolting, looks like an easy bit of wall/rock to work on.

Ru

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#417 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 25, 2014, 11:15:54 am
Rusty hangers probably mean that the whole bolt is corroded.

Wood FT

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#418 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 25, 2014, 11:26:09 am
Rusty hangers probably mean that the whole bolt is corroded.

okay thanks

kc

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#419 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 25, 2014, 03:45:18 pm
As mentioned before.

Nettle Buttress

Not too familiar with this but Stung is particularly bad.



This has see a fair bit traffic recently and I am surprised that so many seem not to notice or care.

It would be great for you to help sort some stuff out as we are all equipped and ready to go.
But will you join the queue of all the others that have said the same thing???

Wood FT

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#420 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 25, 2014, 04:01:11 pm
replied to you on the other thread

kc

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#421 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 26, 2014, 09:36:44 pm
A Newish Route on the Nook.
A Cure For Foot Jams 7b+, done today by Zips.

Good fun steep shenanigans in the vicinity of the de funked route "Cure For Arapiles"

Usual rules apply. Get established on jugs below/near the belay but lower off last bolt (to save your rope and assist stripping, WCJ cornice style).

kc

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#422 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 29, 2014, 10:39:40 pm
An additional 3 bolt and belay added to "The Dukes of Earl(Gray)"
New belay and 4th bolt on Michael Foot Jam. Both routes clean and dry by Nook standards.
Kalymnos 8a is a worthwhile 7a+ to the left of Santiano and joins that route at the last bolt.

Marky

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#423 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 30, 2014, 12:08:22 pm
Gave Lost in Thought Lost in Time 7b+ a good scrub and clean up at Victoria Cave Atterimire. Great route and not easy for the grade but all clean, dry and chalked so get to it now. The 8a which starts up Lost looks great but would need to be rebolted but not sure if this is allowed in here due to the caves archaelogical status?

kc

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#424 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 30, 2014, 06:03:04 pm
Regarding the Nook:

Anybody using a RockFax will struggle to find the correct lines on the middle and left of the crag.

 

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