[Johnny Brown]

Nice work, not been there for years, it was a right mess last time surrounded by loose scree. Highball-able?

[dave]

Just stick a siderunner in a tree.

[leeroy]

Nice work, not been there for years, it was a right mess last time surrounded by loose scree. Highball-able?

maybe, we managed to attach some pads to a sling around a rock to stop them sliding into the pit of brambles. its hard to say whether its highballable, i guess depends on how many pads and how many spotters.

it gets easier form where ben gets his lf high on to an edge at 1.05 on this vid-



so its only hard to 2/3's height.

Great route though, I'll put a video on of me and steve doing it in a few days.

[Wood FT]

Nice one Nathan. 

from what Steve said I wouldn't want a fall in those brambles. see simba in lion king for reference

[kc]

Rubicon
Alimoany 7b+/c

Moat Buttress

No Mud No Thud 7b+
Bigger Splat/Let the Tripe Increase 7a,7c
Moatorhead 7b+
Moat People 7b/+
Afloat in a Moat 6c+
 
Note: Please keep a low profile when visiting this crag as access is barely tolerated. The water bailiff views the crag as a prime location for nesting water fowl and otters, so please keep your shit machines at home or on a tight leash.

[dan lane]

I thought you'd all like to know that yesterday i replaced four of the abseil stations at Stoney.

Inquisitor, Golden Gate, Scoop Wall and Bitterfingers abseil points had all of the old tat cut off and new, well equalised 10mm rope and decent sized mallion/screwgate of some sort put on.

The Scoop wall and Bitterfingers were is a pretty grim state of 10 or so pieces of rotting shoelace tied to all sorts of stuff, what is there now is a lot simpler and you can actually see what it's tied to!

Whilst i'm here, we also replaced a lot of stuff at Aldery Cliff a few months ago, one of the bit we cut off had just one strand of the core left!

Hopefully this will encourage a bit more traffic onto the limestone again and i plan to continue renewing the belay/abseil points on Peak Limestone when i go to crags like Dovedale, Stoney and the rest of the classic venues which are slowly disappearing under vegetation.

Thanks
Dan

PS. If anyone has any static rope, thinner cord (for replacing in situ threads) or old screwgates/mallions they'd like to donate to replacing abseil stations on Peak Limestone then drop me an email, i'll happily take it off your hands and do the work myself.

[Bonjoy]

One I cleaned and forgot to mention from a month or so back, Waggy at Gardoms. Given a generous E7 6c in the Froggatt guide but the difficulties are all low down and I've improved the blocky landing. It climbs a lovely shallow groove feature through some bulges. With a few pads it goes at about 7a as far as the two thirds break where you could escape right. The top third is about E2 5c and has runners.

[kc]

Rubicon
Alimoany 7b+/c

Moat Buttress

No Mud No Thud 7b+
Bigger Splat/Let the Tripe Increase 7a,7c
Moatorhead 7b+
Moat People 7b/+
Afloat in a Moat 6c+
 
Note: Please keep a low profile when visiting this crag as access is barely tolerated. The water bailiff views the crag as a prime location for nesting water fowl and otters, so please keep your shit machines at home or on a tight leash.

Sorry I forgot to say what had been done to these routes.
They have had a bit more than just a clean! All have had the Peak Bolt Fund treatment plus the odd hold glued down.
Oh and they are all dry!

[Paul B]

Rubicon
Alimoany 7b+/c

Moat Buttress

No Mud No Thud 7b+
Bigger Splat/Let the Tripe Increase 7a,7c
Moatorhead 7b+
Moat People 7b/+
Afloat in a Moat 6c+
 
Note: Please keep a low profile when visiting this crag as access is barely tolerated. The water bailiff views the crag as a prime location for nesting water fowl and otters, so please keep your shit machines at home or on a tight leash.

Nat and I popped down here this evening (and we weren't the only ones):

I didn't get on it until last thing in the evening but Moat people is possibly one of the better (dare I say best) 7bs  (no need for the +) on Peak Lime?

Let the tripe would be good for anyone feeling quite bouldery. The harder stuff on Crunch also looked interesting.

[leeroy]

few people down this evening. let the tripe is nice and bouldery with good rock, will get back to it.

[leeroy]

finished off tripe with jon today. moat people also very good (dad pulled hold off near top leaving a better one - maybe 7b now?) and tried the utterley desperate moaterhead (could be 7c imo although it was in the sun). a great new place.

[Falling Down]

Tell him not to feel bad. I also pulled one off probably in the same place in front of KC...  in April.

[kc]

finished off tripe with jon today. moat people also very good (dad pulled hold off near top leaving a better one - maybe 7b now?) and tried the utterley desperate moaterhead (could be 7c imo although it was in the sun). a great new place.

Interesting! The hold (above the crux layaway) that was loose on Sunday was booked in for a service this week, I thought it would make it harder/crapper. Glad it's worked the other way!
Tasty little crux on Moatorhead, would surely be 7c without the brewstop rest.

If your down there again try No Mud No Thud 7b+. This now follows its original line, independent from Excalibur.
I have a link up to do (Bigger Thud 7c?) next time I am down.

[leeroy]

wondered what those bolts were. yeh get that done next time, it be another good addition. the hold on moat people was the second incut layaway on the crux, below the two finger pocket/flake/crack.

[dan lane]

I was at Wildcat Crags today and placed an abseil station on the tree just right (looking in) of the top of Lynx, The tree is directly above 'The Catcuss Furballs Connection' and is right on the edge of the crag so there is no problems in pulling the ropes at all.

It is made of 11mm rope passed around the tree twice with a glued shut carabiner threaded onto it.

It's worth noting that although this means walking off is no longer necessary (and it was a horrible walk in rock shoes!) care should be taken when it's busy as there are a few popular routes which cross the line of abseil - Have a look before you chuck the ropes!

Thanks
Dan

[kc]

Something dry to play on if anybody is interested.http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230368

[kc]

A Good one for all you cheats out there. I'd be impressed if you could take your hands off though!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11922

Also the new line to the left is rather good if not with a snappy headwall and an iffy lower off. May sort this out, if I can be arsed .

[Bonjoy]

  Have always fancied having a go at that.

[Wood FT]

A Good one for all you cheats out there. I'd be impressed if you could take your hands off though!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11922

Also the new line to the left is rather good if not with a snappy headwall and an iffy lower off. May sort this out, if I can be arsed .

  How was the rest of the crag looking, worth the crossing?

[kc]

Not bad really. Few streaks down Poor dill area and a little bit of run off right of the warm ups. Perhaps a bit grim around The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag.

[fatboySlimfast]

A Good one for all you cheats out there. I'd be impressed if you could take your hands off though!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=11922

Also the new line to the left is rather good if not with a snappy headwall and an iffy lower off. May sort this out, if I can be arsed .

Good to see the old thing getting some love.

[andy popp]

Mouldwarp Wall next me thinks.

[Bonjoy]

Me and Leeroy cleaned Grimoire at Crattcliffe a few weeks ago. Climbs well as an excellent 7a+ with a few pads.

[cofe]

Nice work, well keen to do Grimoire.

[aly]

Feeding the Pony at Black Rocks is clean at the moment, just watch the glass from broken bottles on all the ledges