Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 272787 times)

Potash · June 14, 2011, 11:04:50 pm

I noticed this evening that the line to the left of Scoop Wall at Stoney has been glued back together.

Does anyone know what that goes at as it stands & is it any good.

grimer · June 15, 2011, 10:18:19 am

Quote from: Bonjoy on June 01, 2011, 03:29:08 pm

At Gardom’s Raging Insomnia (the hardest looking E3 I’ve seen in a while) ]

Ah yeah, I did that the same night as I did Stormbringer and it felt a lot harder. I took one of them shin scraping falls off it. I think I might have been thinking about going up Mickey Finn but thought twice after that. Although I'm not sure I finished it right as I didn't finish up the arete, just the easy crack. I'd had enough.

Bonjoy · June 20, 2011, 08:40:59 pm

As per other thread Jonah's Boner 7c at Reynard's Cave in Dovedale is now cleaned and has had its belay rope replaced.

leeroy · July 04, 2011, 08:10:46 pm

Laughing at the Rain in Cowdale is now clean. Good F7c for boulderers.

shark · July 04, 2011, 08:49:39 pm

Quote from: leeroy on July 04, 2011, 08:10:46 pm

Laughing at the Rain in Cowdale is now clean. Good F7c for lanky boulderers.

Tommy · July 04, 2011, 10:41:31 pm

You're not kidding! It's like Revelations for 7c climbers. I think there about 67 8a's that are easier in the Peak (for mid-sized people).

A wet dream dream for John Clarke, Mark Richardson and Gibbo though

Nao · July 17, 2011, 02:48:14 pm

Checked out Victoria Cave at Attermire on Friday - it is awesome! I went up 'lost in thought, lost in time' F7b+. It needed a lot of cleaning but the bolts are in perfect nick (the bolts looked good on the 7c 'Soulsports' too). Unfortunately got rained off before I could get back on it. However, after over an hour's brushing and chalking, it is ready to go when the rain stops!

It's a shame the routes here don't get more attention cos they are pretty special looking, covering some incredible territory.

JohnM · July 17, 2011, 08:09:49 pm

Did you notice what the bolts were like on the 8a? I have heard they are pretty dodgy looking.

Nao · July 18, 2011, 02:06:24 pm

Hmm... my confession is that I actually set off intending to go up the 8a but was too tempted by the nice shiny bolts that carried straight on up LIT, LIT compared with the rusty looking relics leading scarily out left.... I don't honestly think they are that bad, I was just being a wimp!

RichK · July 29, 2011, 11:23:25 am

Ceramic Extension chalked.

Neil F · July 29, 2011, 08:54:52 pm

Nice one Rich! Good, isn't it...?

Golden Mile next?

Neil

RichK · July 30, 2011, 09:37:57 am

Quote from: Neil F on July 29, 2011, 08:54:52 pm

Nice one Rich! Good, isn't it...?

Golden Mile next?

Neil

Neil. Very good, glad I continued. Bit lonely on that upper wall

Falling Down · July 31, 2011, 09:50:49 pm

Me and Phil Baker replaced the threads and belay slings on Match of the Day & Goal of the Month at Chee Tor and removed most of the vegetation, dust and soil on both routes today. We Also (accidentally!) cleaned some large microwave sized loose blocks off the VS to right which destroyed my flip flops and crushed my 9mm at the 20m mark.

Valentine is cleaner too although it could do with the saplings clipping.

robertostallioni · July 31, 2011, 09:59:50 pm

Quote from: Falling Down on July 31, 2011, 09:50:49 pm

We Also destroyed my flip flops and crushed my 9mm.

Nan · August 11, 2011, 01:49:20 pm

Cleaned up 'after the goldfish' on chee dale cornice at the weekend. It has some good moves and gives another good 7a+ to do other than the usual ones that take a beating. Has some damp on the lower half but good position after this to dry hands and a tough crux. Seems to have lost a hold round here so might be soft 7b now. The top wall is a nice contrast to the rest of the climbing in the area too.

Bonjoy · August 16, 2011, 01:14:55 pm

Mental Pygmy and Fun Traverse at Black Rocks are now clean. MP was pretty choked up with ferns, FT was mostly clean but the break was a ballbearing fest as well as sporting several stones from tourists playing target practice. Both cracking safe struggles.

Bonjoy · October 06, 2011, 01:07:09 pm

Untoward another Black Rocks E5 is now fully cleaned up. Wasn't sure which side of the arete it went up after the crux so cleaned up both possible sequences. I ended up finishing it on the right.

205Chris · February 26, 2012, 06:56:46 pm

Cleaned up Superbrook at Wyming Brook this afternoon.

It's a little damp in the break at 2/3rds height but I don't think this would be a showstopper as all the obvious crimpy holds were dry.

cofe · February 26, 2012, 07:23:45 pm

Good effort Chris. Did you get on it? It's been on my 'must go and do' list for ages.

205Chris · February 26, 2012, 07:42:10 pm

Quote from: cofe on February 26, 2012, 07:23:45 pm

Good effort Chris. Did you get on it? It's been on my 'must go and do' list for ages.

I had a brief play on it but I was on more of a rest day recce mission to Wyming Brook in general as I'd not been there before and it was too nice to stay indoors. I'm keen to go back for a proper session soon though.

It looks like a class problem but the landing's on a bit of a slope. Might be worth taking a bit of old rope to tie your pads off to a tree (looks like Dan may have done this judging by the pic that's in the guidebook.).

Fiend · February 26, 2012, 08:31:59 pm

Red Camalot on the crack in the rock to the left.

BAndy · March 06, 2012, 10:45:12 pm

I abbed and cleaned the holds on the top half of Guplets on Toast in the Burbage Valley on Saturday after failing dismally on it on Thursday (weirdly a warm afternoon and very green holds don't seem to make for enjoyable highballing). The holds are still not very obvious but they are at least clean now. It was still a mite harrowing yesterday even with lower temps and clean holds but I thought it was a very good climb. Just wish I could do the sitter......

Gritlad · March 06, 2012, 10:47:28 pm

nice work, did the start of it a while ago which is nice but the top was rank meant to go back to it

milne · March 21, 2012, 11:54:54 pm

Hello all, would like to mention and recommend the route "Esoteric Generic" at leashaw brow(holloway), its an E5 6b solo (very highball V5?) climbed by Mat Szabo in 1989, following a lovely crimpy seam and wall. I spent an hour or more the other night brushing all the lichen, moss and dirt off this route. The landing is soft but pretty slopey, needs quite a few pads to flatten it, the route is about 7-8 meters high, with the crux going from a decent hold in the left hand to a small finger slot with the right at around 6 meters, keeping away from the wide crack on the left, quite a dynamic move, but im pretty short. the route climbs wonderfully, great sequence on good positive small holds, with big locks and balancy moves in between. All the hand and foot holds/smears are now clean again, didn't look like this had seen any ascents for 10+ years. It would be a shame if this fine route/promlem was to get dirty again, it deserves some highball attempts. Hope you enjoy it if you seek it out, a little more cleaning would make it even better, as it still feels a bit gritty on the foot smears. thanks, Terry.

leeroy · March 22, 2012, 07:29:12 pm

Me and steve went and cleaned off speak the truth in hall moor. We've cut back some of the brambles and smoothed the landing over. Top route.