[Bonjoy]

I've passed the message on to relevant bods.

[shark]

Apparently reports have been made to various bodies about the recent bolting in Cheedale. This is potentially a very sensitive issue so it would be good if we could get the various peeps who have been/ are intending to do any bolting together to discuss things (over a pint ideally) ASAP. This has nothing to do with humming and hawing over climbing ethics, purely an access issue.

Another thing parking is getting a bit crowded even on Monday evenings when I noticed that one of the cars was partially blocking the exit from the track. They would have got used to not having so many cars in recent summers at the little house off the path. If in doubt is only an extra 100 or so yards up the road to find space.

[Johnny Brown]

I think in previous years the shorter fork of their lane was the one more commonly used. A couple of potholes in that seems to have put them back on the longer one.

[Adam Lincoln]

Kilnsey.

Central Wall, and surrounding E5's and 6's on that wall are pretty clean and chalked as off today. Thanks to Steve Crowe.

[RichK]

Kilnsey.

Central Wall, and surrounding E5's and 6's on that wall are pretty clean and chalked as off today. Thanks to Steve Crowe.

Worth a mention that The Overlap has had 6+ attempts this year of which only 2 were clean, RP styli. One of the pegs was replaced and it has seen plenty of airtime.

[Adam Lincoln]

Kilnsey.

Central Wall, and surrounding E5's and 6's on that wall are pretty clean and chalked as off today. Thanks to Steve Crowe.

Worth a mention that The Overlap has had 6+ attempts this year of which only 2 were clean, RP styli. One of the pegs was replaced and it has seen plenty of airtime.

Steve was egging me to get on it. It looks harder than the thumb!

[RichK]

Kilnsey.

Steve was egging me to get on it. It looks harder than the thumb!

I think you should.....

[Ethan]

The Lockless Monster at The Nook in Chee Dale now re-bolted and cleaned up

[nik at work]

The Lockless Monster at The Nook in Chee Dale now re-bolted and cleaned up

Which hero has undertaken this mission? I have a wad ready and waiting...

[RichK]

   For those of an esoteric slant we did the Pit & Pendulum at Nesscliffe yesterday. Absolutely amazing line, 47m, bone dry, fully chalked and cleansed of all the old nests! Probably more E6 for effort but v. safe bar a slightly sketchy start. 

[Johnny Brown]

Effort, I'm well jealous!

[grimer]

  For those of an esoteric slant we did the Pit & Pendulum at Nesscliffe yesterday. Absolutely amazing line, 47m, bone dry, fully chalked and cleansed of all the old nests! Probably more E6 for effort but v. safe bar a slightly sketchy start.

Nice one. I did that a couple of years ago. It took me TWO showers to become clean after it.

Amazing route, and there's always that in-situ black ab rope just to the left you can jump for if it all becomes too much 

[RichK]

Nice one. I did that a couple of years ago. It took me TWO showers to become clean after it.

Flip yeh, my shower tray has half of Nessa in it......

Amazing route, and there's always that in-situ black ab rope just to the left you can jump for if it all becomes too much 
[/quote]

I know....nice bit of dulux classic black although the Pearl effect is gorge

[Neil F]

Nice one, Rich - with that news, I'm definitely headed Nesscliffe-ward.

Shame it won't be this weekend, as I'm committed to climbing in the Lakes (in the rain  )

Neil

[Adam Lincoln]

Feel a bit  posting this. For those of you after something different at Kilnsey, Detox is now clean and chalked. Worthwhile, and stiff for the grade of 7b+. Hard start leads to steady jug hauling above.

[Johnny Brown]

Why the red face? Cos of your illiteracy?

[Adam Lincoln]

Why the red face? Cos of your illiteracy?

I posted this on my pc, so should be ok. As opposed to the tiny keys on my Blackberry. I assume all is as it should be?

The face was because i don't think anyone will bother getting on it.

[Andy Harris]

Good effort on rebolting Lockless Ethan. A great little route that's more Font 7b than French 7c+. Really quite hard moves that would probably be a crux section of an 8b but without the annoying bit at the beginning that tires you out.

[Tommy]

  For those of an esoteric slant we did the Pit & Pendulum at Nesscliffe yesterday. Absolutely amazing line, 47m, bone dry, fully chalked and cleansed of all the old nests! Probably more E6 for effort but v. safe bar a slightly sketchy start.

What you meant to say was absolutely amazing line, but terrible climbing??! I thought I'd do this as you'd said it was fully chalked and dry. Well, I think the chalk may have all fallen off with the first 5mm of sand on every hold! 

Good effort for doing some cleaning though. I pulled a big block off the final crack as well, so it's a bit safer for belayers now.

Anyone want to clean up The Monster? Please..... 

[Neil F]

Ah, so I wasn't the only one who fell for that "bone dry, chalked and clean" rumour Tom.  I've already informed the Trades Descriptions people - they are en route to deepest Altringham as we speak...

Actually, I thought of you as I thrutched up that slot at the start.  I bet you relied on technique to overcome that obstacle, whereas I even forgot to deploy the clipstick I'd taken for the first bolt!

Did you have a view on the grade?  Rich and Nick thought E6 for effort, but as the gear couldn't be much better, I declared it "ungradeable" (though I did have to try hard).

Think I know the block in question, as I put a big friend next to a block near the top and the block flexed noticably.  I made sure I didn't fall off that move...

Which one is The Monster?

Neil

ps. 2 quotes from Sunday:-

NF - "This is probably the best quarry in Britain"

CR - "I don't think I'll be coming here again..."

[Johnny Brown]

This is probably the best quarry in Britain

No probably about it!

[Tommy]

Ah, you did it as well! Good effort for sticking with it. I actually used the worst technique known the seasoned crack climber..... "A layback" I felt so dirty using it. I think I might have even started speaking in French for the rest of the route.

As for grade - well everything is soft (including many of the holds!) at Nesscliffe, so in my estimation it felt about as much effort as other Nesscliffe E6s, but in the rest of the world like a very sandy Gogarth E5 or an E4 elsewhere. Still, you've got to have some soft destinations to have your good days at eh?!

Grades eh. 

Thai Boxing next week, so then I'll know what real E6 is!

[Tommy]

Oh - and The Monster is that incredible corner right of Yukan II, which makes you cross your legs just looking at it. Be nice if it got cleaned up.

[T_B]

Grades eh. 

The Nuance. Suprised that you found that one easy for the grade?

[Tommy]

Definitely harder that Trouble in Toytown, but fairly ok though. I might be totally wrong about the grades at Nesscliffe - maybe it just suits me? I tend to go with the general line of thinking that I'm not that good at climbing, especially onsighting, so if I'm doing well, it's got to be for reasons other than I'm any good!! 

I always tend to look at the monumental list of climbs that you've done Tom, in good style and think fucking hell, when am I going to do that?? So therefore my default position is one of crapness.