Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 272787 times)

Nike Air · April 28, 2010, 12:52:10 pm

Quote from: nik at work on April 28, 2010, 08:58:25 am

It's significantly harder than OF I think.
Monopoly (E7) at Millstone is probably the closest match for style that I can think of right now. BTI has a harder crux, is steeper, more sustained and equally bold. I'd also say it's harder than other E7 onsights I've done, but as these are few and far between it is hard to draw direct comparisons.
Does this make it E8? I dunno, but I wouldn't argue.

aye was not comparing B.T.I style wise to O.F. Just that if one was gradeX the other one is surely harder, so its at least XX. So its eXX. I do hate grades.....

Do the deed tomoz Nik!!! No pressure!

Forgot to mention toxic is clean. Good climbing indeed.

nik at work · April 28, 2010, 01:19:15 pm

Do you know anything about the peg? I assume it went in that flakey thing just above the overlap originally?
I guess if the peg was in some way worthwhile (which I assume it would be or why have it there??) then a sight upgrade as a solo would be reasonable. Obviously I will struggle to have an impartial opinion here...
Grades are awkward, I've just written a long rambling piece and then deleted it all but in summary it said "I think E8, maybe low in the grade, similar feeling to Doug when I topped out".

I think I'm trad-ed out for a bit now or I'll end up being silly...

GCW · April 28, 2010, 01:21:34 pm

Just call it hard E7 and be done with it

Probes · April 28, 2010, 05:14:32 pm

Quote from: Nike Air on April 14, 2010, 08:27:13 pm

A not too clear video of The Lovely Charlotte, gives you some idea what its like.

Fuck me sideways, i cant believe someones bin on it, nice one Jordon. :-)

Probes · April 29, 2010, 02:39:42 pm

Nik at work, ive just read this thread properly, crickey thats a good effort on BTI. I tried a similar thing to yourself on BTI about 10 years ago in a moment of madness, but didnt quite make it, i just had very achy ankles for a few days, and said a few thankful prayers. Yeah in my expert opinion

id say youve jus onsighted E8. The peg wasnt there when i tried it so it is a solo and i think this is what Gaz Parry did on the FA. Compare it to any other quarry 7's about and its def a step up... perimter walk is 6b at the same height as is s groove etc etc.
Cool it looks like its gonna be quarried grit madness again this year

nik at work · April 29, 2010, 05:28:54 pm

I've never tried S-Groove, but BTI is several orders of difficulty harder than Perimeter Walk. PW is just one not particularly hard move, BTI is several harder moves in a row and is much more tenuous.

Nike Air · April 29, 2010, 08:05:39 pm

uptown · April 29, 2010, 09:07:40 pm

It's not far from me so I should make a comment - those inverted commas really should be around 'sending'. (good line, great crag, well done! - charlie don't surf next mr Nike?

)

Falling Down · April 30, 2010, 02:36:24 am

Can I just say that I love this thread and the efforts documented herein. Cleaning routes, heroic ascents and general all round goodliness. Waddage to all of you

Probes · April 30, 2010, 10:32:05 am

Quote from: nik at work on April 29, 2010, 05:28:54 pm

I've never tried S-Groove, but BTI is several orders of difficulty harder than Perimeter Walk. PW is just one not particularly hard move, BTI is several harder moves in a row and is much more tenuous.

Nik, yeah exactly. Pw although soft touch, you still wouldnt want to balls it, n with standard correlation, committed 6b in a scary leg breakin place is E7 in my book, committed (more sustained) 6c in a scary leg breakin place is E8. Anyway

Tom de Gay · April 30, 2010, 07:37:33 pm

Cheers for the vid Jordan, and good effort, especially for testing the gear.

For the record, and without intending to take away from this achievement at all, I placed all the gear on lead in a single push so couldn't reach the slightly better higher placements from the rest. I guess that's why it felt on the bold side. Not that it makes much difference, but I also started direct up the slab.

Anyway, good tick... on to the next one!

Tommy · May 04, 2010, 10:13:31 pm

Have no idea where to put this very basic video of Elm St at Millstone, but anyway here it is. Not exactly a route that needs cleaning, but useful beta for the sequence if anyone fancies it.

Cheers for Nige bringing out his van's worth of pads - now a V8 highball.....

TobyD · May 04, 2010, 11:46:28 pm

nice one tommy. Good effort.

Also not exactly a cleaned route (although i did pull a few bits of moss and choss off it); but Big Wall Party (Colussus Wall) climbed at the weekend - more of a query really - anyone else done / tried it? The crux on pitch one seems bafflingly hard to me....

Tommy · May 12, 2010, 07:54:02 pm

At Millstone a few new routes ready to go for those chuffers out there....

Urban Sprawl E6 6b.

Now cleaned an chalked. Neither me or Pete W could do it after multiple goes - has anyone else done this bit of esoterica? I thought it was well tricky or just suitable to a totally monster reach.

Adios Amigos E5 6b

Clean and fine to go. Looks a bit green but no effect on the climbing what so ever. Weird and unique!

Trumpton Anarchist E6 6b

Cleaned up and chalked - ready to get flashed by anyone keen! Didn't have time for this, but would like to go back and do it if anyone is interested? Boulder problem on the end of a rope essentially.

Nigel · May 12, 2010, 07:59:17 pm

Damn it, wish my ankle was better! Good stuff Tommy, rest assured I'll be straight on these come Autumn. Saved me a job at least.

jfw · May 12, 2010, 10:37:15 pm

hijack: did you get a second opinion on it nige? (ankle that is)

BAndy · June 05, 2010, 01:24:01 am

I cleaned the holds on Kiss Me Hardy on the Long Wall in the Gorge du Chee and climbed it a couple of days ago. Well worth getting on while it's dry and the extra traffic will help clean it up even more. Unfortunately I didn't have a large brush to get rid of more of the crap on it.

I also cleaned (again as much as possible without a large brush) and climbed the original finish to Bored of the Lies on the Cornice today. Despite looking really eliminate from the ground it felt pretty independent and the moves are really good.

Falling Down · June 05, 2010, 07:31:23 am

Well done - the Long Wall 'hardy' routes were filthy. Nice one.

ChrisC · June 18, 2010, 08:49:28 am

I've rebolted Whose line is it Anyway at the Chee Cornice with glue-ins from the PBF, and it had a good clean last night so should be pretty climbable now. I'll attempt to remove the old bolts when I'm next down there and have the right type/size of spanner with me.

A week or so ago I scrubbed the lower wall and roof of Roof Warrior, since then others have cleaned the upper wall and is now dry and clean enough to climb, though a few of the bolts are looking a bit dodgy.

Also to make a change from the usual warm ups then I gave European Female a scrub, its the 7a on the first bit of rock you reach when approaching from Wormhill.

Neil F · June 18, 2010, 12:26:46 pm

Quote from: useless punter on June 18, 2010, 08:49:28 am

I've rebolted Whose line is it Anyway at the Chee Cornice....

Nice one, Useless - I'd been looking forward to doing that one again. Did you get to try out the PBF drill?!

Incidentally, did you clean it direct at the bottom? When we first did it, it was cleaned and climbed direct, with quite a tricky section at the start, but in recent years the chalk (and me, I admit) has tended to deviate right to a big resting flake in Big Store.

Anyways, I hope some of the other easier Cornice routes get this treatment, as there really is more to the place than Clarion Call and the blatently manufactured Martial Music...

Neil

Bonjoy · June 18, 2010, 12:43:46 pm

The drill was offered but UP had his own and is Notts based so prob not keen to deviate via Sheff anyway.
Seb mentioned he was going to re-equip Egyptian Bizarre.
Any particular requests Neil? I've been badgering the troops to do That Was the River, which has especially shocking bolts.

ChrisC · June 18, 2010, 01:46:55 pm

I'd be keen to redo TWTR, that will sort out Rapid City too. It'll be a couple of weeks before I get a chance though - I'm not about this weekend and its not really an evening activity either (if you want to climb as well).

Neil F · June 21, 2010, 06:19:46 pm

Quote from: Bonjoy on June 18, 2010, 12:43:46 pm

Any particular requests Neil? I've been badgering the troops to do That Was the River, which has especially shocking bolts.

Well, perhaps surprisingly, my first choice would be Spiders from Mars. It may be the worst route on The Cornice, but it is by far the best warm up, and has had dodgy bolts for years. But if anyone is feeling generous, please will you give it an independent belay over on the right. Sharing the Snails belay as it has in recent years, makes it a real pain to clean.

Apart from that, I would like to do things like Naive and Sentimental Lover, or Old Man River Direct again.

I would love to do That was the River again, but unfortunately I don't think it is a very realistic prospect...

Neil

Johnny Brown · June 22, 2010, 01:37:06 pm

Apparently reports have been made to various bodies about the recent bolting in Cheedale. This is potentially a very sensitive issue so it would be good if we could get the various peeps who have been/ are intending to do any bolting together to discuss things (over a pint ideally) ASAP. This has nothing to do with humming and hawing over climbing ethics, purely an access issue.

Could anyone who is likely to do any bolting/ mega cleaning projects send me a PM and we'll sort a time and place.

Adam Lincoln · June 22, 2010, 02:53:40 pm

Not sure if these guys read this, but i know Jon Clark has been doing some bolting, and Awesome Mawson has been doing some cleaning. Worth passing on info about this post to them, for someone that might see them in next few days?