[petejh]

At The Cutaway, Pen Trywyn:
Half Man, Half Beard 7a, The Amazing Bearded Lady 7b+, Rock Lobster 8a, Rodney God and the Oral Twins 8a, John Paul and the Vatican 7 7c, Who Framed Roger Rabbi 7b+.
All now re-equipped with resin bolts and lower-offs.

[petejh]

Forgot to mention, please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund - http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/     

Limestone wiki here -  http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/

[nik at work]

Boldness Through Ignorance, Cows Mouth Quarry has a smattering of chalk up it. I haven't brushed it but is pretty clean although the crimp near the top just above the mono's felt slightly sandy. A very good route with really nice delicate technical climbing coupled with extreme fear. It's probably a bit high for a highball approach, bold solo territory IMHO.
Also conditions up there are good as it tends to catch a breeze so stays pretty cool.

[JohnM]

Has anyone done Rock Lobster recently?  I remember trying it a while back and thinking it was way harder than Rodney God which is probably only 7c/7c+.

[Nike Air]

Buzz caner at the mighty hawkcliffe is brushed and chalked if anyone cares. Defo an underated classic from Tom. Might put video up sometime.
Also nice one Nik, reckon B.T.I is 7 or 8?  Thought you were sport climbing today btw...

[Tommy]

Nice one Jordan. I was just reading about that this evening in a mag. Coincidence! Also "Throw another sheep on the fire" - mono's on quarried grit isn't it?!

Nice vid of the Lovely Charlotte thingy. Looks like a nice sequence.

[Nike Air]

Cheers Tom, that is a coincidence! What mag was it written up in?
Birketts "Throw another sheep on the fire" is at baildon i think, a product of foot and mouth, hence the name!! Yea its on monos i think, maybe an old aid route?

Nice vid of the Lovely Charlotte thingy. Looks like a nice sequence.

The music made it!!   

[Tom de Gay]

I think Neil Foster mentioned Buzz Caner in his new routes report in High, Summer '01 (mysteriously upgrading it to 7a...). Good route for summer grit, as there's often a bit of a breeze in the rift. Would be interested in seeing the vid.

[Paul B]

The music made it!!

My mute button made it! The climbing looks great.

[nik at work]

Also nice one Nik, reckon B.T.I is 7 or 8?  Thought you were sport climbing today btw...

I really couldn't say, I wouldn't argue with your assertion that it is E8 as a solo. It's harder, bolder, more sustained and less secure than EOTA IMHO. Make of that what you will...

Nice one on Buzz.

I was supposed to be sport climbing yesterday but instead did some work at home (as you know the house needs it) as it was looking a bit grim. A lunchtime jolly to Cows Mouth was inspired by the clearing conditions. Today was sport climbing, which was slightly less successful...

[shark]

Gibson says he has regeared and cleaned Cowdale / Craig Y Biceps and added a couple more.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=405691

http://sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Cowdale%20Topo.htm

[T_B]

after my visit to Masson Lees last spring, i think i'd rather stick pins in my eyes

[Nike Air]

I think Neil Foster mentioned Buzz Caner in his new routes report in High, Summer '01 (mysteriously upgrading it to 7a...). Good route for summer grit, as there's often a bit of a breeze in the rift. Would be interested in seeing the vid.

Right, you gave it 6c then? I was told 7a and it felt about right to be honest, but is that linked to my expectation... and the fact i fell off three times
Bet you were amazed to find such a smart line with just enough holds to make it fun!

Also nice one Nik, reckon B.T.I is 7 or 8?  Thought you were sport climbing today btw...

I really couldn't say, I wouldn't argue with your assertion that it is E8 as a solo. It's harder, bolder, more sustained and less secure than EOTA IMHO. Make of that what you will...

Yea I was not sure either, when i did it, many years ago i was comparing it to stuff like obsession fatale but then was ego was knocked when that got regraded. But i would like to think it is e8 and I only just found out you onsight soloed it too! That is such a good effort!!!! I do remember its got a few moves on it for sure.

[Tommy]

after my visit to Masson Lees last spring, i think i'd rather stick pins in my eyes

Ha, funny that! I went there yesterday and nearly got hit by a bit block falling off the top! I actually thought the climbing was quite good though. The perfect combination of sandy holds, wet pockets, snapping edges and munge. Classic Gibbo.

Craig y Biceps next I think.... 

Jordan - no idea on the mag thing. Just had a look but couldn't find it. Was an old OTE. Have you or Adam cleaned up any more lines at Wilton? I'd like to come over a do Gigantic, but would be nice to know there's some other clean stuff in case I'm crap/not inspired/it's too hot. 

[Tom de Gay]

... and the fact i fell off three times

That sounds a bit trouser-filling; I'm surprised the RPs held! Probably font 7b+ish isn't it? Anyway good effort for unearthing this one.

I only just found out you onsight soloed it too! That is such a good effort!!!!

This sounds a bit crazy Nik. Bon effort indeed.

[nik at work]

It's significantly harder than OF I think.
Monopoly (E7) at Millstone is probably the closest match for style that I can think of right now. BTI has a harder crux, is steeper, more sustained and equally bold. I'd also say it's harder than other E7 onsights I've done, but as these are few and far between it is hard to draw direct comparisons.
Does this make it E8? I dunno, but I wouldn't argue.

Cheers Tom. It's good to see your back-in-the-day routes getting a bit of attention too. I've never seen Buzz but it certainly has a fiercesome reputation.

[Tommy]

Nice one Nik - good to see you bringing back that bouldering strength to some trad love. I keep on trying to tell these boulderers if someone as weak as me can get up some harder trad routes, they'd find them a piece of piss!!

Also cleaned recently - At Harston's - One Chromosone's Missing, Boysen-Carrington route and Pair O' Genes. We flashed the first 2 (they're very reasonable at the grade  !!) and then I decked up Pair O Genes, which probably says that one's a touch harder. Clean and ready to go at least. That Andy Popp route needs a repeat as well.... looks clean. DNA is filthy.

[Johnny Brown]

Bumped into Boysen at the weekend, he reckoned Harston's would be a a good candidate for some tree thinning.

[andy popp]

That Andy Popp route needs a repeat as well.... looks clean. DNA is filthy.

Chuffed people know of this, would be even more chuffed if it got a repeat - I know Andi T has put some effort in. No excuses for anything but the best of style on this one  .

But massive props to Nik.

[Adam Lincoln]

after my visit to Masson Lees last spring, i think i'd rather stick pins in my eyes

Have you or Adam cleaned up any more lines at Wilton? I'd like to come over a do Gigantic, but would be nice to know there's some other clean stuff in case I'm crap/not inspired/it's too hot.

Gigantic should still be well clean after all the attention its getting. Jordan cleaned Toxic Billberries also. I'll be cleaning Darwin Weasel up in next few days.

[Adam Lincoln]

Full Tilt got its first clean of the season yesterday. It is also bone dry, even the start. Get to it.

[Adam Lincoln]

It's significantly harder than OF I think.
Monopoly (E7) at Millstone is probably the closest match for style that I can think of right now. BTI has a harder crux, is steeper, more sustained and equally bold. I'd also say it's harder than other E7 onsights I've done, but as these are few and far between it is hard to draw direct comparisons.
Does this make it E8? I dunno, but I wouldn't argue.

Well you have 1 day to do all the 8's in a month. Pull your finger out  Will be cheering you on Thursday. 

[uptown]

Well you have 1 day to do all the 8's in a month. Pull your finger out  Will be cheering you on Thursday. 

Me too - is the local hero sponsored yet? If not may I suggest:

[Fiend]

Gnarly hairy slab-genius midget in covert E7 onsight shocker!! 

[Adam Lincoln]

Gnarly hairy slab-genius midget in covert E7 onsight shocker!! 

Not so hairy at the moment. Had his yearly hair cut it seems