[pete D]

Cleaned No Light at Nettle Buttress last night.  It's the Gabe Reagan E3 to the right of Toys For The Boys that was looking a bit sorry for itself.  Not climbed it yet but it looks great.  Probably still quite dusty but should be climbable at the grade.

[Bonjoy]

 The Ogre 8a*** at Chee Tor. JC re-bolted it in winter, I went there today and cleaned it up. It was a big job so hopefully it'll see enough traffic to avoid having to clean it again. Looks brill, i'll be heading back to try soon. One hold was wet but looked raggable. Will still need the odd hold cleaning as I didn't try the moves so only brushed the general area and anything obvious.

[Neil F]

Have replaced the thread on the top pitch of Menopause. Hardly crucial, but should encourage more folk - very good and a great hard finish for Our Father.

Also cut loads of redundant tat off in this area.

Hi JB

I was climbing on Windy Buttress last night and noticed some of the places where you have removed tat.  Unfortunately I think you have removed some crucial threads from the recent major new route between Scoop Wall and Our Father!

This is a GG E5 (6a, I think), from c.2002, which starts as for SW, but moves out into the small groove almost immediately, and then, with a bit more independence, up the open scoop between SW & OF, to arrive at the left side of the OF cave.

Now, (once you stop laughing  ), I admit that this probably isn't the most important new addition to Peak Limestone in recent years, but it was something different to play on.  And if like me you have been beavering in Stoney obscurity since 1981, there are not many new things left to go at - hence it had been on my provisional list...

Any more thoughts on these particular threads, now you understand why they were there...?!

Neil

[Johnny Brown]

I took one piece of tat off that line because it was 70% worn through - it looked absolutely ancient. It was on a peg I think - I didn't touch that bar giving it a tap to check it wasn't death.

There was also a thread just right of the first roof on Scoop Wall. I got rid of that because it was within reach of Scoop wall and looked very weak.

[uptown]

Steve Crowe looks to have cleaned up two high quality looking E6's at Kilnsey. 

WISE BLOOD (E6 6B**) looks a stunning line and climbing. (can you confirm Neil F?)
EXPONENTIAL EXHAUSTION (E6/7 6B***) looks pretty well protected, with a superb line and rock.

Get those cakes whilst they're still hot...

[Bonjoy]

Wiseblood looks great but had a waterfall running down it yesterday!

[uptown]

Wiseblood looks great but had a waterfall running down it yesterday!

 

Ha - go with the flow, I'm on the grit today, and the conditions are better than just great.
What were you saying about Thors Jon? 

[pete D]

Birdmen (E5) at Kilnsey was cleaned as far as the new lower-off on Rubble yesterday and a thread replaced near the top.  The top section and second pitch are still very overgrown and probably not worth the effort.  Saw that Picnic at Hanging Rock (E5 6b) to the left of Exponential Exhaustion has also been cleaned and has had it threads replaced. Looks like a good route.

[Bonjoy]

Cordless Madness 7b+ (and Cosmopolitan 7b) at the Cheedale Cornice cleaned and re-equipped. Top runout on Cosmo needs a clean still (it was wet)

[ChrisC]

Aberration, 7c+  The 2 pegs after the Gonads belay have been replaced with 2 bolts and a lower off added below the top.  It doesn't add much to the dificullty but does mean it feels like the route goes somewhere now. 

The same lower off could also be used for Gonads if another bolt or two were added to the top of this (holes are already there for staples)

I noticed a random bolt with an orange hanger between the upper section of Aberration and the Minos/Celebration finish - just to the right of the ledge after the upper crux of Minos.  It looks newish, theres lots of drill dust under the placement.  I'm not sure what that is intended for but it coud be used to link the gonads belay over to the Minos/Celebration one? 

[Nike Air]

Metal Mickey, the 8b on the far left of kilnsey is all cleaned up and i ve added a another bolt(with help from steve crowe) to the middle section.
J

[uptown]

Metal Mickey, the 8b on the far left of kilnsey is all cleaned up and i ve added a another bolt(with help from steve crowe) to the middle section.
J

Well done Jordan, seems to be a very worthwhile route / problem. Tough for the grade no?

[Nike Air]

Metal Mickey, the 8b on the far left of kilnsey is all cleaned up and i ve added a another bolt(with help from steve crowe) to the middle section.
J

Well done Jordan, seems to be a very worthwhile route / problem. Tough for the grade no?

Aye not much higher than your average highball really!! Quite tough, seems solid 8b. Have you been on yet?

[ChrisC]

Although probably of local interest only the lower off at the top of Prognosis and it's neighboring routes at Pic Tor has been replaced.  I also cleaned and removed any veg from both Prognosis and Neurosis.  Both climb nicely and are worth doing if your in the area and fancy a quick tick, or as a handy warm up for High Tor.

[shark]

or as a handy warm up for High Tor.

..or Lorry Park Quarry.

Nice work.

[pete D]

Anyone else climbed Stuffed Badger (E5 6b) on Nettle Buttress yet this year?  We've brushed it some more and cleaned out some gear placements in the groove.  It's good to go now and well worth doing.  The first break may still be a bit damp but can be dried out with a rag and chalk if needed.  Good RPs protect the easier upper groove and these can be placed from a no hands rest.  Same lower off as Summer Wine.  Thanks a lot BonJoy for replacing the bolt on this.

Summer Wine (E5 6a) has had a few ascents now over the past few weeks, so is as clean as it's ever likely to get.  Easier climbing but feels a bit spicier than Badger as the crucial wires look good but I wouldn't describe them as 'bomber'.

We also brushed the Eve Syndrome (E5 6c), which is a right hand finish to Summer Wine.  There are still a couple of wet holds that seep before the crux that may need to be dried out first. After the peg on summer wine, it is protected by a bolt at the crux and a peg higher up and feels more like a sport route to lead, with wires only needed for the first break. 

[Bonjoy]

Great stuff. Good to hear about these getting done. Was concerned Tom's epic might have put people off!

[Bonjoy]

Cordless Madness and Cosmopolitan at The Cheedale Cornice which were re bolted a few weeks back are now full dry and are clean and chalked. Unleashing is properly dry again now.
Boo over on Chee Tor is now also clean and chalked and got a rare ascent from Mr Mawson yesterday.

[andy popp]

I'm amazed that ascents of Boo are rare. This is a three star classic that stays basically clean and seepage free. What's wrong with people?

[Neil F]

Cordless Madness and Cosmopolitan at The Cheedale Cornice which were re bolted a few weeks back are now full dry and are clean and chalked...

Are any of the Cornice warm-ups dry Jon?  I'd like to have a crack at Cosmopolitan, but always found it very fingery, and much too hard for a warm up - and you don't get very long in the evenings now...

Thanks

Neil

[Bonjoy]

Andy - Boo having half as many bolts as most similar length sport routes may have something to do with it.

Neil - Clarion Call and Martial Music are probably just about dry enough to climb but will need a good scrub. I usually use the two 7as on the far right as warm ups instead, one is called Further Adventures in Greendale, can't recall the name of the other. They're almost always dry and clean (ish).

[andy popp]

Andy - Boo having half as many bolts as most similar length sport routes may have something to do with it.

Mmm., I suppose so, even so ... Mind you there's always Boobs, that's better bolted  (I'm starting to sound like Nik and his proverbial wall!)

[nik at work]

Oi, I heard that

[Bonjoy]

Boobs was well chalked, someone must have been on it recently. Is Theology any good, has it had an ascent since a certain fat boy broke a hold?

[andy popp]

Theology was worthwhile, really nice position and mostly good rock. Don't know of any reascents, I would have thought it was worth a look.

Sorry Nik.