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Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 265228 times)

El Mocho

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#650 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 26, 2023, 06:18:47 pm
I didn't try before the hold broke, I imagine it's a slightly harder move now, judging by the state of the holds left and from what Hydraulic said. But it's not hard enough, bold enough or sustained enough to bump it up an E grade (again like Hydraulic says it's no more than E4 without this section, assuming nothing falls off the trav left with you attached), and as someone brought up at Almscliff I believe there is nothing above 6c anyway, just dif levels of 6c.

Fiend

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#651 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 26, 2023, 07:58:46 pm
Sounds like your mum needs to work a bit on her crimping strength and determination if she blew the flash go tho....

Neil F

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#652 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 27, 2023, 02:59:39 pm
I think the current grade is realistic.

Just wondering how typical it is for you to get on the crimps on a 6b move and simply give up, Ben  :-\

I agree that the E grade is a given, but from what I saw the other day, the crux looked every bit a 6c sequence to me - even if at the lower end of the Almscliff scale   ;D


kc

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#653 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 27, 2023, 03:45:17 pm
Regarding the Rubicon route. "Harder than Caviar" was the original quote. ???

T_B

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#654 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 27, 2023, 03:50:54 pm
I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didnít quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light. The first 3 moves are harder than the first 3 moves of Caviar and it didnít look like I was at the hard bit yet!
« Last Edit: September 27, 2023, 03:56:07 pm by T_B »

kc

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#655 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 27, 2023, 04:08:23 pm
I thought the moves were really good from the undercut but I lost interest very quickly with the sharp crimpy start and other distractions. I'm sure Caviar felt easier but that was 20 years earlier with enthusiasm.

El Mocho

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#656 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 27, 2023, 04:35:38 pm
I think the current grade is realistic.

Just wondering how typical it is for you to get on the crimps on a 6b move and simply give up, Ben  :-\

I agree that the E grade is a given, but from what I saw the other day, the crux looked every bit a 6c sequence to me - even if at the lower end of the Almscliff scale   ;D

I'd forgotten it was 6b, even though you told me that at the crag the other day, was thinking it had been given 6c - as per the name one ard move on an E6 on Peak lime would be 6c anyway. So 6c.

I found a rock 5 at the top, assume it was 1 of you guys. I've left it on the start hold of OAM.

El Mocho

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#657 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 27, 2023, 04:44:59 pm
I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didnít quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light. The first 3 moves are harder than the first 3 moves of Caviar and it didnít look like I was at the hard bit yet!

I thought the first move was the hardest so stick with it. I'm not sure if you've been on a rope on it but it's very ground up able with a few pads. I can message you some gear beta if you want, it's prob around 7a from the bolt onwards.

Bosi flashed this but fell off Caviar and I think he had dogged up Caviar already (I didn't pay enough attention to be sure) so that was a fall on first RP on Caviar vs flash on PMD.

It's not easy though, around 7B/+ and without pads would be quite high getting the flake. I had 3 pads which changed the nature of it completely.

Hydraulic Man

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#658 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 27, 2023, 05:55:53 pm
Just a suggestion but would be really interesting if someone could do a Lime List for the Peak with routes above E5 and the current state of rhe gear etc..The current guides are hopelessly out of date...

shark

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#659 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 27, 2023, 08:42:57 pm
Just start a threadÖ

Hacker

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#660 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 28, 2023, 09:58:18 pm
On the off chance anyone has come across a BD green Z4 whilst doing all the cleaning in electric quarry mine dissapeared in there one evening in the summer.

Spent about an hour looking for it but never found it  :wavecry:

Hydraulic Man

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#661 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 30, 2023, 10:05:09 am
I think the current grade is realistic.

Just wondering how typical it is for you to get on the crimps on a 6b move and simply give up, Ben  :-\

I agree that the E grade is a given, but from what I saw the other day, the crux looked every bit a 6c sequence to me - even if at the lower end of the Almscliff scale   ;D

I'd forgotten it was 6b, even though you told me that at the crag the other day, was thinking it had been given 6c - as per the name one ard move on an E6 on Peak lime would be 6c anyway. So 6c.

I found a rock 5 at the top, assume it was 1 of you guys. I've left it on the start hold of OAM.

I got my wire back, thanks Ben.

The left hand crimp went yesterday completely...Nick Conway sorted another sequence out and repeated along with Dom... still possible (and just as hard)

 

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