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Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 265419 times)

El Mocho

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Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 17, 2008, 10:32:06 am
Good effort Graham, I keep thinking about going to clean routes down there but never get round to it. The last two times I have been down the things I tried were pretty bad (Autobahn - got up it by the skin of my teeth, and Midnight Summer Dream - failed) I did give M S D a clean afterwards so I think it is a climbable state now (the top was wet and dirty so I didn't climb that bit after cleaning)

I think the state of insitu gear is even more of an issue down in Pembroke and Cornwall as there is often a similar reliance on fixed gear which rots even quicker.

Maybe we need to start a cleaned/re-equiped thread:

Opium (great zawn, Bosi) is now clean(ish) and the pegs not replaced but unnecessary as they are easy to back up.

West face route (just to the L) pegs are stainless so in good condition and easy to back up (so maybe they should be taken out??)

Bonjoy

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#1 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 17, 2008, 10:55:04 am
I've moved this post from the Chee Tor thread.
As suggested by El Mocho please use this thread to report cleaning and re-equipping carried out.

pete D

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#2 Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 17, 2008, 11:04:44 am
I clean up Fishing Without A License on sunday (15/06/08).  It's the 7c at the far right of The Embankment and needs a bit more popularity to keep the ivy at bay.  It's short but climbs really well. powerful and fingery.  It was midge hell yesterday eve, so best to wait for a breeze.
« Last Edit: June 19, 2008, 10:14:53 am by Bonjoy, Reason: missing name »

Bonjoy

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#3 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 17, 2008, 11:11:21 am
That reminds me, I cleaned and did the next route right Barefoot in a Pool of Sharks back in May. Quite a worthwhile 7b+.

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 17, 2008, 02:37:23 pm
Noticed on Rockfax that Tequila Mockingbird was cleaned up 15/6/08

mickb

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#5 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 18, 2008, 01:51:26 pm
I cleaned this on sunday (15/06/08).  It's the 7c at the far right of The Embankment and needs a bit more popularity to keep the ivy at bay.  It's short but climbs really well. powerful and fingery.  It was midge hell yesterday eve, so best to wait for a breeze.

I take it you were  the guy on 'Fishing without a licence'. It was my head you nearly dropped a tree on while i was changing my shoes. :)
Rab and Al had a quick go on this yesterday.
The verdict was like you say, powerful.

Jaspersharpe

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#6 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 18, 2008, 02:02:13 pm
It's a good little route that.

pete D

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#7 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 19, 2008, 10:04:21 am

I take it you were  the guy on 'Fishing without a licence'. It was my head you nearly dropped a tree on while i was changing my shoes. :)
Rab and Al had a quick go on this yesterday.
The verdict was like you say, powerful.

Sorry Mick, I got a bit carried away with the ivy removal and didn't notice you get covered in shit!  I didn't put the route's name in my original post, it is as you say "fishing without a license".

Bonjoy

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#8 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 19, 2008, 10:16:28 am
You did put the route name in your original thread title but it was lost when I merged your post with this thread. I have editted your original to include name now.

andy popp

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#9 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 20, 2008, 09:53:53 am
It's a good little route that.

As is the little bouldery scoop to the left, 'Something Fishy'.

Bonjoy

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#10 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 20, 2008, 10:38:13 am
Something Fishy is well and truly burried under a huge curtain of Ivy!

andy popp

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#11 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 20, 2008, 11:16:53 am
A shame, its fun.

Gareth Parry

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#12 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 01, 2008, 05:58:04 pm
Anyone got any info on The Ogre, clean or dirty, new or old bolts?

Gaz

Johnny Brown

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#13 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 01, 2008, 09:41:38 pm
El MO gave Midsummernight's Dream a brush last week. Its not perfect, still a little dusty (and the webs will be back soon enough) but its clean enough to climb, even if you have no stamina. Top tat could do with replacing if anyone is doing it.

Kingy

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#14 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 01, 2008, 11:14:06 pm
Is this thread peak only? I gave Skyjack at Malham a bit of a brush and chalk the other week, was very dusty now clean. nice moves!!

Adam Lincoln

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#15 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 01, 2008, 11:31:03 pm
Vortex in Egerton has just been cleaned. May be of note to you Gaz if you haven't done it yet....

Bonjoy

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#16 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 02, 2008, 08:25:36 am
Anyone got any info on The Ogre, clean or dirty, new or old bolts?

Gaz

Still old bolts I'm afraid and hasn't been cleaned in a while. If you fancy re-bolting it let me know and I can get you some PBF bolts etc

Kingy

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#17 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 02, 2008, 08:03:52 pm
I cleaned up Weedkiller the route at the Snore recently. Was very dusty, cobwebs everywhere - now chalked up and climbable....but still desparate!  :lol:

n_man

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#18 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 24, 2008, 10:54:28 pm
It appears that much re-bolting has been done at Rubicon. Nice new bolts in Zeke, Hot Fun, Too Old and Dangerous Brothers (plus a belay) and possibly others I've not seen.
Effort to whoever has done this.
Maybe this has been posted elsewhere and I've missed it?

milksnake

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#19 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 25, 2008, 03:44:48 am
the lower off for reptile smile down portland needs some attention, the lower off is half worn through! :o

SA Chris

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#20 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 25, 2008, 08:03:40 am
the lower off for reptile smile down portland needs some attention, the lower off is half worn through! :o

Fucking toprapers.

TobyD

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#21 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 30, 2008, 10:35:16 am
recent chee tor routes which i've cleaned a bit, generally whilst onsighting, or on the way down after an ascent, so they won't be immaculate, but should be perfectly climbable:

ceramic extension - cleanish; take something for a belay / lower at the top, i did leave a sling and a krab on a tree off left a bit, but couldn't find anything fixed right at the topo of the line.
snap dragon - given a decent brush, although its rained a fair bit since then so might be in need of a bit more of a scrub. failed onsight on some very slimy footholds. Has some really good (and quite hard!) climbing.
golden mile - is totally clean anyway, and absolutely brilliant.  :)

whilst on the subject, Delta G and V2 at high tor are vastly underrated and both well worth going to do.

Anyone fancy giving Autobahn and / or the thing to its right a scrub?

anyone done Laughing?

andy popp

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#22 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 07, 2008, 10:16:57 am
I've done Laughing. Normally I don't like hybrid trad/bolted/designer danger routes but thought Laughing was absolutely brilliant. Great rock, great climbing and the runout away from the bolt is really exciting/gripping. Ace!

TobyD

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#23 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 18, 2008, 03:50:02 pm
cheers Andy, moved away from the peak so might be a while before i get around to it now... but it looks great.

T

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#24 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 19, 2008, 08:38:06 pm
whilst on the subject, Delta G and V2 at high tor are vastly underrated and both well worth going to do.
:bounce:Too ffing right and both not easy for the grade!
By the way, on another note, Mad Max and V2 both have 'trad' starts, then 'sport' route finishes, which is fine!
Looking at doing a new 'sport' start into both of them, to make completely sport alternatives to either route.
The new bit won't compromise the trad starts to either route- best of both worlds!

 

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