[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Ok its not really unique. Just a few queries regarding this injury.

I appear to have another one again, this time on the same finger as one i'd had couple of years ago.
 

think i acquired this injury doing a similar thing to last time. Working a move which involved putting lots of stress on the finger inquestion whilst using a fingery undercut and raising one of the legs up high to about waist level.

1/ what type of action/hold caused your injuries?
2/ ever had a reoccurance on the same finger?
3/ my last two were sorted after 6-8 weeks ish, couple weeks resting and then slow progression.
4/ mine only seems to be noticeable if i try and spread the middle two fingers vulcan stylie, or hard crimping. Everyone else the same?
5/ at work im currently utilising the following regiment to prevent accidental agrevation. Slapping volterol inbetween the fingers in the general area and buddy taping the two fingers together. Seem good idea?

Cheers
Tim

[Kingy]

Hi Tim

1. Pulling on a small crimp over repeated sessions on the same project with no different climbing inbetween these sessions ie trying the same bit of climbing too much in too short a space of time.
2. Not really, have hurt A2's on both hands in the past though through intense climbing.
3. My A2 healed up with 3 weeks rest followed by 3 weeks of easier stamina climbing with no bouldering
4. yes to pain when crimping hard, don't know bout the vulcan stylee bit.
5. yes to voltarol and ice baths in the early weeks of injury. Have not tried buddy taping. IMHO there are not many moves where the ring finger is used independantly of other fingers so I tend to think it always crimps in tandem with the middle finger anyway. The main use for taping was to tightly tape up the A2 ring finger injury itself, not around the middle finger also.

hope this helps dude

[GCW]

1/ what type of action/hold caused your injuries?

Holding a 1st joint 2 finger pocket when my feet popped.

2/ ever had a reoccurance on the same finger?

No.

4/ mine only seems to be noticeable if i try and spread the middle two fingers vulcan stylie, or hard crimping.

A2 injuries can do this, but so can IP collateral strains.

5/ at work im currently utilising the following regiment to prevent accidental agrevation. Slapping volterol inbetween the fingers in the general area and buddy taping the two fingers together. Seem good idea?

Personally, I feel NSAID gels are a waste of time.  Use Ice and oral medication, that's my tuppence worth.

Hope it all settles for you.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

A2 injuries can do this, but so can IP collateral strains.

any online resource for this injury? as i'm pretty sure pushing spreding those fingers apart was what happened last time so maybe its not an A2 inury as #i suspect ?