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Ace problems in N. Wales (Read 3134 times)

LJ

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Ace problems in N. Wales
September 02, 2003, 08:12:06 pm
Alright guys am heading down to North Wales next week for a few days.
Gonna be heading to the Pass, ogwen valley and probably porth ysgo as well. I have the topos, but there is so much to go at i wanna have a go at the cream!

Basically want the proper class problems to have a go up to V6, soft V7. Mission set guys, gi us a list

Rhys

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#1 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 02, 2003, 08:59:31 pm
Here's a bit of a mission for you-

The Pass:
The Crook Zone: Fear of a slopey Planet V6

Utopia: The Crack V0, The Flake V0, The Groove V2, Utopia Central V4, Utopia Left Hand V5 (soft for grade), Utopia Right Hand V5 (Can't comment as not done yet- apparently it's v.good), Utopia Traverse V6.

Wavelengh: The Groove V4, Kink of Drunks s.s. V6, Wedgie Lefthand V5, anything on this boulder is good.

The Grooves: Boysens Groove V3, The Ramp V5

The Dome: EVERYTHING at the dome.

The Cromlech: The Edge problem V5 (6 with s.s.), Jonny's Wall V6 (7 with s.s).

The Barrel: The Minimum V7 (some find it easy), Bulling 747 V5 (ace), and a couple of V4's to the left of this.

It should be a good trip if you get all these- there are more but I think these are the ultra classics. I should be out and arround the pass next week as well so if you see a 6ft blonde guy with a giant moon pad give me a shout and I'll show you some problems if you'd like. Hope you have a fun trip :D

LJ

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#2 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 02, 2003, 09:24:15 pm
Nice, cheers! Did edge problem on my only other visit down there, very nice problem. Had definately considered the minimum and had heard the utopia stuff was good! Cheers

However i dont reckon i will get that long in the pass as my mates are dead keen to try the ogwen valley and porth ysgo, will prob only get an afternoon in the pass unfortunately! any fave problems in the other areas?

dontfollowme

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#3 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 02, 2003, 10:15:52 pm
Pit arete is worth doing which is at the milestone buttress boulder field which is kind of ogwen area.

dave

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#4 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 02, 2003, 10:38:44 pm
if you go to ogwen then Sheep Pen area is cracking. Do Gnasher V6 (i liked this better at V8 :wink: ), Kingdon Of Rain V7 and the Pinch V7 all excellent.

everything at ysgo is good, if you do the "Stick It" ticks you'll have a good day.

Scouse D

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#5 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 03, 2003, 10:12:20 am
Elephantitus in Nant Gwynant is a very good V6, and definately worth seeking out IMHO. Get to it!

Rhys

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#6 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 03, 2003, 10:42:39 am
If it rains, Parisillas is a must. Some people hate the place but I think the quality is top- everything is good, athough at the moment I can only vouch for Left Wall traverse, Clever Beaver and Lipstick but it all seems ace. There should be a guide to the place on www.Cragx.com which is printable. Beware, you might end up with a dozen projects and not know what to do next!

Ogwen is good, but I think the Pass is better for a short trip as the quality seems a bit more spread out. The only time I've been to the Sheep pen it was too hot to move so I might not have the best impression of the place- The Pinch did seem mint though- I even tried hanging a pillowcase over the crimps to cool them down, beautiful place as well. The Afon Caseg boulders would be a very enjoyable morning, and I've heard good things about the Plas Y Brennin Boulder. Enjoy!

dave

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#7 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 03, 2003, 11:06:18 am
cragx website has dissapeared recently, think it may be a gonner.

Bubba

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#8 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 03, 2003, 11:08:17 am
Nick Smith at t'other place mentioned it was a cock-up on a server move, but not sure it would take this long.

It wasn't getting a lot of updates though, was it, so mebbe they've pulled the plug?

dave

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#9 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 03, 2003, 11:13:13 am
I'm surprised if its gone for good, especially since it was my understanding that the climbing shop bit was the main object of the site, in fact had heeard that they only opened the foundry shop so companies would supply them (as companies won't suppy online-only ventures since they will always be able to undercut thier other buyers).

Bubba

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#10 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 03, 2003, 11:18:05 am
Never even knew there was a shop on the site  :oops:

dave

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#11 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 03, 2003, 11:19:24 am
aye, they didn't make a very good job of promoting it!

Scouse D

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#12 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 03, 2003, 02:14:00 pm
The Plas y brenin boulder is immaculate rock(similar to fear of a slopey planet) but the problems are limited as it isn't a very high bouder. The traverse (the Hobbit?) is V6 and is something special. Chris Davies has also sent a hard sitter to the left arete involving a monstrous bum-dyno.
Seriously though-elephantitus is bo and worth finding.

Adam Lincoln

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#13 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 03, 2003, 02:47:56 pm
Quote from: "Scouse D"
The Plas y brenin boulder is immaculate rock(similar to fear of a slopey planet) but the problems are limited as it isn't a very high bouder. The traverse (the Hobbit?) is V6 and is something special. Chris Davies has also sent a hard sitter to the left arete involving a monstrous bum-dyno.
Seriously though-elephantitus is bo and worth finding.


Is that 'poppys move?

Scouse D

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#14 Ace problems in N. Wales
September 03, 2003, 03:09:55 pm
No. Poppy's move is at dolwyddelan(sp?), which is near(ish) to Betws-y-coed. There are a few good problems at this venue- mainly steep on sharp incut holds.
Don't know what Floppy's Brenin prob is called, don't even know if it's particularly good- just hard.

 

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