Home
Forum
Search
Login
Register
UKBouldering.com
the shizzle
bouldering
B4/5 test pieces
« previous
next »
Print
Pages: [
1
]
B4/5 test pieces
(Read 2387 times)
B2copout
newbie
Posts: 2
Karma: +0/-0
B4/5 test pieces
September 02, 2003, 11:58:36 am
Can anyone give me a list of the definitive B4 and B5 peak boulder problems that, in your opinion, you would have to do to consider yourself a B5 boulderer?
I'm pretty much flashing every 4 I get on, but daren't call myself a B5 boulderer until I've done the test-pieces!
Cheers
Logged
dave
Guest
#1 B4/5 test pieces
September 02, 2003, 12:11:31 pm
Test peices:
Pebble arete (do it on both sides for a B4 and B5, no changing side half way)
Banana Finger and the direct.
The Arete (Roaches)
Joes slab arete (B4 froggatt)
Lurcher Direct (bell hagg)
Technical master (i never done it, shit!)
G-Thang (gardoms south)
Not to be Taken Away
Think Tank (wimberry)
Logged
B2copout
newbie
Posts: 2
Karma: +0/-0
#2 B4/5 test pieces
September 02, 2003, 12:13:18 pm
Ta matey - will wait for colder weather and get up to Millstone!
Logged
Scouse D
forum hero
Posts: 1372
Karma: +73/-2
#3 B4/5 test pieces
September 02, 2003, 12:17:02 pm
Word Dave. Good knowledge.
Strwberries is bo, can feel piss but more often is fuckin desperate
I find technical master harder since i got stronger- first did it 6 years ago and it was ok, now I really struggle on it.
Lurcher direct is a great problem too- easy at b6 but stiff for a 5.
G-Thang...what a problem.
Logged
dave
Guest
#4 B4/5 test pieces
September 02, 2003, 12:18:12 pm
A few more you could do are that
tall B4 arete at RHS
,
Nunn's eliminate at bell hagg (pretty easy really)
strawberries at curbar
Logged
Jim
Trusted Users
forum hero
Mostly Injured
Posts: 8629
Karma: +234/-18
Pregnant Horse
#5 B4/5 test pieces
September 02, 2003, 06:20:26 pm
is it worth going to gardoms south just for G-thang, are any of the other problems any good?
Logged
LJ
addict
Posts: 110
Karma: +2/-0
#6 B4/5 test pieces
September 02, 2003, 08:18:33 pm
Too right about Strawberries, i find it ridiculous!
A fantastic one to have a go at which i reckon is pretty steady B5 is an unnamed arete to the left of the apparant north buttress, superb problem. Bubbles wall at stoney is also fantastic, a tad high but safe, dont need the cold weather for it either.
Logged
dave
Guest
#7 B4/5 test pieces
September 02, 2003, 10:33:25 pm
Its worth going up to G-south when its breezy (midgey othewise st this time of year), theres soem nice easier problems, a welford hard thing and a excellent looking Tom De Gay E5 prow/arete in the trees. You can also marvel at the jackaloupe nearby, and see some E8s.
to whoever it was, yeah that B5 nar hampers hang is superb but not really a test-peice a such.
Logged
Jim
Trusted Users
forum hero
Mostly Injured
Posts: 8629
Karma: +234/-18
Pregnant Horse
#8 B4/5 test pieces
September 03, 2003, 10:04:25 am
Excellent, I shall be setting off there soon, while you office bods are at work....
enjoy :D
Logged
dave
Guest
#9 B4/5 test pieces
September 03, 2003, 10:06:14 am
wanring it'll almost certainly be midgey right now unless a strong breeze has appeared!
Logged
Jim
Trusted Users
forum hero
Mostly Injured
Posts: 8629
Karma: +234/-18
Pregnant Horse
#10 B4/5 test pieces
September 03, 2003, 05:45:05 pm
no breeze but no midgy's, fortunately. Managed to do g-thang but failed to flash it (damm) excellent problem though. Is the slab to the left a project or has someone done it (well reachy). Good pint of ridings bitter in the robin hood after! :drink:
Logged
dave
Guest
#11 B4/5 test pieces
September 03, 2003, 07:48:31 pm
the "slab" to the left is welfords latest "barry shene" at like 7c+ or summert. Must be hard for him not to give it 7b+. Getting to that distant edge is piss (had 1 go fleeing midges) but moving off it would be tricky, shit top.
Did you see that E5 in the trees? looks bo.
did you find g-thang surprisingly fingery when you initially expect it to be like delicate?
Logged
Jim
Trusted Users
forum hero
Mostly Injured
Posts: 8629
Karma: +234/-18
Pregnant Horse
#12 B4/5 test pieces
September 03, 2003, 08:01:37 pm
Quote from: "dave"
did you find g-thang surprisingly fingery when you initially expect it to be like delicate?
yeah, looked like you could do nice static moves up it and pad your feet up the wall. unfortunately I bust my right index finger yesterday snowboarding and found it hard to crimp on the small holds and had to snatch to the left crimp in the groove. not so bad getting feet into the groove but standing up to get the top was the crux for me - had to snatch(again) for it.
Logged
Print
Pages: [
1
]
« previous
next »
UKBouldering.com
the shizzle
bouldering
B4/5 test pieces
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal