[Three Nine]

dear all,

i've done something to my ring finger - no specific trauma i can remember, just came on at the end of 3 days on and hasnt gone away. Achey (not too bad) around the a2 region up close up to the knuckle after climbing for a bit, and achey the next day. I can crimp the table now with no pain. Am at a loss? I've done my flexor unit there before? could be a very mild one of those? 

[Three Nine]

And also I can pull hard openhanded on one finger (against my other hand) 

odd

[Houdini]

Obviously the internet is more convenient, but have you considered a visit to your GP (who will tell you to rest and take anti-imflammatories)?

[webbo]

 i recently read an article which said anti inflammatories take 6 to 8 weeks to have an anti inflammatory effect.so are fairly usless in acute conditions. there is one avalible on precription celecoxib which works in 6 to 10 days.whether your g.p. will prescibe it is another matter.

[SA Chris]

Doesn't sound that funny?

Sounds like a "tweak" (generic non-specific term for a bit of pain).

[Three Nine]

That was my diagnosis. Assume the treatment is lay off the plastic and take it a bit easy for a bit?

[SA Chris]

probaby a good idea to lay off plastic. In fact this is always good advice to avoid injuries.

[Ru]

I'm no doctor, but...

 - Things don't hurt for no reason.
 - If it hurts, you've probably damaged it.
 - If it hurts near your A2 pulley, you've probably damaged your A2 pulley.
 - As far as I know, all pulley damage involves some sort of rupture of fibres. This can be small, or big (ie all the way through)
 - If it's come on gradually, rather than after a big bang or pop, and there's no bowstringing it's unlikely you've gone all the through
 - Therefore it's likely you have some form of minor rupture
 - Pulley injuries hurt most when you stress the pulley
 - Open handed grips stress the A2 pulley less
 - Therefore openhanded grips hurt less

Finally, and this is my own personal feeling about all minor finger injuries, there's no point getting a full diagnosis from a doctor.
It's doesn't matter if it's diagnosed as a strain/sprain/minor rupture of the A2/A3 pulley/ tendon etc etc, the treatment is exactly the same. If it hurts, don't do it. If it doesn't hurt you're probably doing it no harm. Anything you can do to stimulate healing (ie using it) is good.



 

[Moo]

its taken me much reading and the picking of many peoples brains to come up with the conclusion which ru has just laid down heed his advice

[Three Nine]

Thanks Ru. I did easy mileage this weekend and it seems to be less sore now than it was - so i'll just avoid anything that aggravates it until its better. I met a strong chap at the Almscliff on sat who claimed to have done loads of research on finger injuries and had a look at my finger and reckoned it was some bruising of fibers. I was happy to believe this!

[Kingy]

Yo, I am currently nursing a tweaky A2 pulley but rested for 2 and a half weeks and it did it the world of good. I think 'climbing through' the injury may work for minor tears but if you have something more substantial then it may be best to lay off for a week or two. The usual of ice baths, voltarol gel application plus home acupuncture sessions thrice daily (check out the most recent Climber for an article by John Ostrovskis) might do the trick. Don't rest too long though as the pain probably won't go away on rest alone, some form of light climbing stimulus, gradually increasing with every session, is required to kick the injury into touch. The good news is that these injuries usually heal back stronger 

[Moo]

research is what we badly need, physios are great with shoulders knees hips ankles and all of the joints which are commonly injured playing a whole variety of sports they know them like the back of their hand but fingers, all i hear is that there isn't any relevant research no matter which avenue i try going down. it would be interesting if almscliff dude with the knowledge could come on here and lay it down for us.