[Moo]

yo I'm going to be spending october in bishop if all goes well for my finances and the such like. I've seen plenty of videos for the areas obviously and checked out all of the relevant guides I can see it seems to be pretty steep and crimpy as a general theme for the harder problems  anyone wanting to recommend some training tips would be much appreciated (I have a 40 degree board at my disposal)

[SA Chris]

Smash some crockery and bolt the bits to your board. Get used to crimping the edges. Start anti-hydral treatment now. And get used to being off the deck, some of the probs get pretty high.

[account_inactive]

Depends on the area that you to

Happies/Sads - Very much like climbing on a board.  Good holds with powerful climbing.  A bit friable.  Most of the classic lines are only V0/1 and the hard lines are sort of non-lines (a few exceptions like Atari).  Expect to do a lot of mileage in a day

Buttermilks - Amazing lines of all grade.  Some high off the deck but generally get easier after 4 metres.  More technical and interesting climbing. Some painful holds, but still less destroying than grit.  Don't expect to knock out loads of problems every day here rather go for specific classics.  My favorite area by far.

Get strong on crimp and squeezing stuff

If you want any more info send me a PM

[Houdini]

God bless you Moo, you're setting your sights high.  

But before thinking about becoming a bishop, you should ask yourself some serious questions, such as:  am I suited to a life in the clegy?  And, do I really want to bum youngsters?  

[SA Chris]

Can't beat it.

[nathan wind]

awsell as training for strength / power on your board.. ( Happy's and Sads probs are often steep).. do some bouldery routes and be fit generally.. plenty of the probs I did were long in comparison to probs over here and Bishops quite high elevation wise..  Happys etc are about 4000 ft.. the Buttermilks 6000 or so..

[SA Chris]

And druid stones feel like they are at about 8000

[Moo]

cheers boys i'll get some more power endurance circuits set up on my board then  i've got the young boy bit nailed houdini don't need any advice there

[Houdini]

God willing, you will make Archbishop.   

[irish si]

You have some time so I would train pinches for a bit on very poor feet then closer to the time train small wood with dunbar pinch (safer in my opinion).  I personally disagree with the power endurance one.  The boulder problems in Bishop are VERY cruxy and generally revolve around one or two hard moves and then relativly easy sections (unlike hueco or parisellas etc).

Also the granite is the only rock to climb on since you have been to hueco.  The volcanic is absolutly shite in comparison.    druids, milks, pollens, bardinis....

For me I used antihydral once a week and tried to cut my skin up before i went.  on leaving there, my skin was completely solid but fucked also, my hands looked destroyed but i had so much callus that they actually were ok to climb.  When climbing there, have few quality attempts in evenings and mornings on your problems and take your time.  Go explore during the day.  dont go crazy, cause if you split a finger early on it really has a knock on effect, the weakness will keep splitting unlike other rock types and areas.  if i feel like im gonna split, I put one band of tape and superglue the pad side.  for me its still possibly to climb on this rock like this and is MUCH better than a split.

for training again, i would stick to small polished chips for feet and train open i.e. no drop knees.  bit of undercut burl training wouldnt actually go a miss. 

[carefultorque]

then closer to the time train small wood with dunbar pinch (safer in my opinion)

irish si, loving your technical climbing vocab there but it's making me feel like a dunderhead.  what is a dunbar pinch?

[robertostallioni]

[
[/quote]

  what is a dunbar pinch?
[/quote]

It's a more personal version of the Glasgow kiss

[Houdini]

A Dunbar pinch is where a pickpocketeer head-butts the pickpocketee shortly before pinching their sporran.

[irish si]

thats funny, I thought all the climbing geeks on here would have known what the dunbar pinch was.

Instead of crimping wooden holds to the max i.e. risking blowing your pullys on the quick, this technique commonly used by all at some point is to place ones thumb on the side of the wooden hold - half crimp the top- and pinch the side.  Less chance of injury and in my opinion better for training as i think full crimping is the devils work, indoors anyway.

The rumour goes as thus.....

its 1902 in the infamous school room in sheffield (actually maybe jerrys celler before this).  Ben and jerry have spent the winter training and putting up hardest moves and problems in the world (in the cellar/school).  a young malc turns up at the front door (all the way from Dunbar-his home town) looking for some broccolli.  Jerry invites him into their special little room, and malc proceeds to flash all the hardest problems.  Much to jerry disgust he claims that none of malcs ascents count - Why you ask? Because malc - its cheating to use your thumb on the side of the crimps.......

Hence malc was using the dunbar pinch and ben and jerry were not (though malc probably reflashed them all with the new beta anyway)

this story may be completely fabricated. Anyone else heard this tale?

 

[Jaspersharpe]

Sounds like a story Gav Ellis once fabricated told.

[carefultorque]

A Dunbar pinch is where a pickpocketeer head-butts the pickpocketee shortly before pinching their sporran.

Yeah but Houds, why is this a Dunbar practice, specifically?  What happens in Motherwell,for example?

[carefultorque]

this story may be completely fabricated. Anyone else heard this tale?

 

I hadn't heard it and it may be one of those wonderful legends, but who's to know and it certainly doesn't matter to me.  Thanks for posting it.  Perhaps someone should start a legends thread?