[GaryB]

I'm off to Llanberis in a couple of weeks for the weekend to bo a bit of bouldering/climbing.

Can someone point me in the right direction for some good bouldering locations. Nothing above V5 please. Low grade bouldering more than anything.

Cheers

Gary

[webbo]

drive down the llanberis pass.when you see a pile of large boulders under a crag with a huge open book corner,try and park(there may be one or two cars parked here) then follow the chalk.

[GaryB]

Well that answered that question. Nice one

[Dicker]

I always head for the RAC boulders for some nice easy bouldering - usually quiet also and minimal walk in.

[grimpeur]

When Webbo says there maybe one or two cars parked there, he means it'll probably be full If you can't find anywhere to park, there's another layby further down the pass and if all else fails you can always park in the pub carpark at Nant Peris.
If your staying in the area, I reccomend Pizza and a Pint at the Gallt y Glyn  either way, hope you enjoy

[n_man]

Walk up the Wavelength hillside and pick off the plums eg Boysens Groove.

[Jim]

go do lordy lordy and boyson's groove. 2 of the best problems in north wales

[Houdini]

Lordy Lordy yes, Jim is spot on. 

Boysen's no.  Jim is wrong.  The reason is it doesn't climb the feature but holds  on the arete and within the groove.  That's not to say it's a bad problem, it's just not a great groove problem in the way that Green Death Eliminate is a great groove problem. 

[Pantontino]

There are some fantastic sub V5 problems on the Wavelength hillside.

Jim is right, Boysen's Groove is a total classic, as is The Groove (V2/5+) on the Utopia boulder, any of the problems on the Wavelength block, Appauled (V4/6b+) in the Lower Satellites, Northern Soul (V5/6c+) and Kris's Groove (V4/6b+) in the Upper Satellites, Killer Weed (V5/6c+) and Meadow Roof (V5/6c) on the Meadow.

Also check out The Seam on the Pont y Gromlech slabs, a cracking V3/6a and try and do The Edge Problem (V5/6c+) on the Roadside Face (just because it is the test piece V5), or failing that, Hidden Wall (V4/6b) and Prow Lefthand (V3/6a+) both of which are superb.

[GaryB]

^^ Thanks for the details! Thats exactly what I'm after :D

If I could give you Karma I would

[GaryB]

I'm going tomorrow, so I might see some of you down there if you're about. 

[Richie Crouch]

My recommended problems up to V5 have to include:

The Edge problem, Throbbin's Wall, Bull's Problem, Wirebrush Crack (all near the roadside)

Boysen's Groove, Appauling Traverse, Scoop Arete, The Groove (On the Wavelength side and lower satellites)

I hope the weather is good for you, as there are many fine problems from V1-V5!

[GaryB]

Had a great weekend. We started at the RAC boulders on the Saturday morning, then went to the Pass in the evening. And on the Sunday we took a look around the boulders in Porth Ysgo. Which were supurb! There are some good problems, that need my attention once I've recovered. Unfortunatly my fingertips were fucked by Saturday night, so I had to take it easy on the Sunday.

[n_man]

Does anybody else find Arse Soul desperte for V5 on the satellites? I had to jump for the crimp out right from a pinch with the left.

[BenF]

Well Arse Soul gets V6 in the NWB guide.  Does that feel more appropriate? 

Personally I think V6 is a little high for this problem, but I know that others feel differently so it's probably just that it suits my build - I fit nicely into the first moves and find going for the sloper alright, but I can imagine it being tougher for the tall.  Swings and roundabouts really, and for once its nice to actually find a problem that I find easy for the grade rather than moaning about it being difficult!

[Pantontino]

Does anybody else find Arse Soul desperte for V5 on the satellites? I had to jump for the crimp out right from a pinch with the left.

Are you talking about Northern Soul? And yes it is nails for V5! The sitter is awesome; I reckon 7b.

Arse Soul is the left hand line on the boulder. It starts sitting, hands matched on a low edgey thing, reach up right to a diagonal edge, up left to large rounded boss, then make crux barndoory moves for a horn thing on the top with your right (snagging a poor intermediate on the way). I think this is solid 7a.

[n_man]

Northern Soul indeed. Glad I haven't just made a mess of the sequence. The sitter looked desperate just pulling off the sloping sidepulls. Mind you it's a bit tricky when your arse is in a bog.

[BenF]

Mind you it's a bit tricky when your arse is in a bog.

 

The downside of the boulder (and the NASA boulder), means it's best in winter when the ground is well frozen.

[Pantontino]

Come on lads, wet ground is barely a problem on the Northern Soul boulder, certainly not under Northern Soul itself (just nortmal grass here), and only a minor issue on Arse Soul/Confederate (after all the marshy stuff has a crazy paving of stones inlaid into it).

Fair play, NASA does have a damp landing, but who cares when the climbing is that good!

The key for NS is to get your right foot really high on a small edge and kick your left foot out left so that your almost lieing sideways. Even then it never feels easy, at least not to me.

[slackline]

Mind you it's a bit tricky when your arse is in a bog.

When did they start installing toilets at crags?

Maybe the Spaniards and French could benefit from this and stick a few in at Albarracin and Font