[granticus]

I took a few piccies with my exceedingly rubbish digital camera during the meet at Lynmouth.
Anyone take any better piccies?? Please post them here.


A gathering under the popular V-Clef Left and Right problems.  I completed the first ascent of super slopey left to right lip traverse of this bloc at the event (Font 7a ish?), swiftly followed by Barney C and Mikey C.  Just for SA Chris it's name is 'The boulder jam ho down throw down!'.


Mike Adams (not that one!) on 7a traverse in the Big Cave.


Sam on Chimpanzee Moose Bumps 6c+/7a


Raph employs knee on 'Talon Left' 6a+/6b


Goofy Foot Trav 5+


Raph trying Dave Westlake's start to Mike Cleverdon's unnamed problem.  Grade???  No-one could touch it on the day apart from Mike who smoothly flashed it. 

Cheers again to everyone who came along and had fun!! 

[Duma]

Looks good! Anyone know where tide info is available online? - I'm thinking of a visit this weekend.

[Dave Westlake]

Raph trying Dave Westlake's start to Mike Cleverdon's unnamed problem.  Grade???  No-one could touch it on the day apart from Mike who smoothly flashed it. 

This is called "Monster Tide" (reference to the big tidal range) and I thought the grade was something around font 6b when I did it.  Im not very good with font grades below 7a though so could be wildly wrong.  Interesting to hear people have found it hard - Jake couldnt do it recently and he thought it was harder than my grade too.  What grade did everyone think?

Grant - Ive got some better pics of this including one of Jake trying it but im a computer phobe so don't know how to put them on here!

[SA Chris]

Looks good! Anyone know where tide info is available online? - I'm thinking of a visit this weekend.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/coast/tides/tides.shtml?date=20080508&loc=0533

Probably closest place for tides here - remember to correct for BST.

http://magicseaweed.com/Saunton-Croyde-Woolacombe-Surf-Report/7/tide/uk/

will give you an idea of sea state too.

Prob in second one looks ace. and does Sam in the third use Daz?

[A Jooser]

Unfortunately I didn’t manage to get many good photos but these are the best of a bad bunch…





Mike C demonstrating a good easy problem that proved very popular on the day…



Another view of Sam A on ‘Chimpanzee Moose Bumps’ (I think)…



I had a jolly nice day out in spite of the less than ideal conditions. Thanks to Grant and Mike for showing us all around – I look forward to seeing a guide.

[granticus]

Cheers Jooser!

Yes.. it was a little damp on the day, due to the lack of breeze and humidity... It does get much better than this... Still plenty of dry rock, on the day, to go at though!

Nice pic of Sam on 'Chimpanzee Moose Bumps' shows the steepness... (points for anyone who can tell me where the name comes from!)
 
CMB starts at back of roof and goes out left to pocket (that Sam is slapping for in photo), then matches pocket and moves up leftwards again via a quartz band.  Goes at Font 7a+ ish???

No More Nails - starts at back of same roof and instead of moving left for pocket, goes straight up for slopey lip and scarily tops out direct via what looks like a good pocket, an edge thingy and further slopes... maybe more in the 7b to 7b+ region??

A project is to do the same start as above 2 problems but top out rightwards on slopey nothingness, it's waiting for a mantle fiend!

[lagerstarfish]

Nice pic of Sam on 'Chimpanzee Moose Bumps' shows the steepness... (points for anyone who can tell me where the name comes from!)
 

Never mind the Chimpanzee Acne and Moosebumps, I need a cure for my Rectal Bees. That Dr Octagon isn't all he says he is.

Is there a problem called Rectal Bees too? That would be ace.

Is it called Chimpanzee Moosebumps because it was first climbed by a cool person called Keith?

[granticus]

Lager!  Good work! I have given you a wad point for knowing who Dr Octogan is!
The name of the project could well have been decided by you!

Problem was sent by me and I'm not cool or called Keith, oh well...

The rock there looks kind of diseased with limpets, barnacles, green stuff, brown stuff, red stuff, quartz bits.... If chimpanzee moose bumps existed I imagine these would be the symptoms?

How about a problem called Ultra Magnetic!

[granticus]

More piccies courtesy of Hippy Dave W

Dave on first ascent of 'Anarchy Arete' E3 5b/c ??


Dave on Ankh - font 6b/c?  What do you reckon Dave??

[lagerstarfish]

The name of the project could well have been decided by you!

Cure for Rectal Bees?

Sounds a bit Redhead

[andy_e]

More piccies courtesy of Hippy Dave W

Dave on first ascent of 'Anarchy Arete' E3 5b/c ??

Fackin'ell! that looks amazing!

[Dave Westlake]

More piccies courtesy of Hippy Dave W

Dave on first ascent of 'Anarchy Arete' E3 5b/c ??


Dave on Ankh - font 6b/c?  What do you reckon Dave??

Grant, Thats not me in the second pic!  Its Jake Surman.  As for the grade fo that one, ive no idea but 6 something sounds about right.  Not sure about the grades of the moosebumps problems though, seem a bit high - maybe 7a and 7a+ respectively? Having said that, you will have noticed by now that i dont understand grades at all...

Andy e, yes, Anarchy arete is pretty cool.  Not the best pic as it was taken on my mobile, but it gives you an idea.  Can you tell where it gets its name??  Cant decide whether its a mini route or a high highball but either way its worth doing.  Grade around E1/2/3 5b/ v1 ish!!! (basically ive no idea)

All this talk makes me want to get back down there!

[granticus]

  Andi  Is pretty much what I did when Mikey Cleverdon showed me this block.

We climbed the arete to the left of this on both sides, pictures in thread below.  But we bottled the one Dave is on due to lack of mats, balls and for other reasons that will be made clear below..  Giza block is in the vicinity of this as well.  Dave's photo of Jake shows the back of this block.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8903.0.html

I reckoned the left arete on it's right 'F.E.A.R' was around HVS/E1 5b ish top move is quite committing and is the crux.  Dave's Anarchy Arete must be around the E3 mark??  Although Dave obviously has grading issues, come on Dave you must have some idea you've climbed plenty???

By the way Dave, myself and Mike were eyeing this arete project to be climbed purely on it's righthand side.  It looks like you were mostly left, which whilst definitely being scarey would not be as scarey or as hard as laybacking up the right face.  Anarchy Arete Right is the true project line and is the line we were bottling, it will be balancey, technical and barn door tastic!  Any takers??  Also the wall/ slab between F.E.A.R and Anarchy Arete is not climbed.  The short arete to the right of Anarchy Arete is an easy boulder problem called Sid Vicious.  The wall between Sid and Anarchy is insane and would be super super hard.

Agree Moosebumps is definitely solid 7a and No More Nails may be easier than 7b but is also harder than Moosebumps... Needs more ascents to confirm.. So far only 3 of us Mike, you and me.... Or is it 7c+ in slimey conditions!

The block was named after the natural anarchy symbol that can be seen up and right of Dave's hand!

[Dave Westlake]

By the way Dave, myself and Mike were eyeing this arete project to be climbed purely on it's righthand side.  It looks like you were mostly left, which whilst definitely being scarey would not be as scarey or as hard as laybacking up the right face.  Anarchy Arete Right is the true project line and is the line we were bottling, it will be balancey, technical and barn door tastic!  Any takers??  Also the wall/ slab between F.E.A.R and Anarchy Arete is not climbed.  The short arete to the right of Anarchy Arete is an easy boulder problem called Sid Vicious.  The wall between Sid and Anarchy is insane and would be super super hard.

The block was named after the natural anarchy symbol that can be seen up and right of Dave's hand!

I wouldnt say i was either side really - I kinda climbed it front on really.  That's what seemed the most natural thing to do.  Doing it just staying right would probably be harder but I would have thought this might feel a bit 'eliminatey'.  Maybe not though, I'll have a go next time im there (which should be soon!)

I had a quick look at the slab between AA and FEAR, and this looks cool.  We had to go though so I didnt have time to try it.  I agree the sea facing wall looks really hard!  I though sid vicious (good name by the way) was really nice.  I did a silly extension lip traversing along to the finish of anarchy arete that day too.

There must be so much more to do just in that area alone!

[granticus]

Dave

Your Line definitely makes the most sense, I don't know what we were thinking.. and I think right side would be eliminate but could be cool?

There are loads of bits and bobs on the walk out and around anarchy and giza some have been done but very little recorded.. There is a well cheeky looking blank ish slab!  Low tide reveals plenty. There is also potential for some deep water shennanigans when the tide comes in.  The problem being that we'll have to wait for it to go out again to escape... although we suspect this area is accessible from above with or without ropes??  

Maybe a cheap rubber dinghy mission, when there's no swell or wind, in the summer, is the best plan!

I'm hoping the next time your down that I won't be heading up...  We should hopefully be going out with crew on Sunday...