[r-man]

I had a play on this yesterday. Anyone got any beta?

Was getting to the seam with left hand on furthest left hold (tiny slot) and right on furthest right (slopey scoop), then trying to move left hand next to right, but not quite managing.  I suspect I'm doing something wrong. The crux is the rockover, right?

I remember seeing JB try this years ago and thought the rockover looked like a cool move. If only I could get to it...

[dave]

you've lost me. there is no seam or rockover on blind ali.

[r-man]

Maybe I've got the wrong problem name. I don't own a BMC guide, but I'm on about the one squeezed between remergence and the arete problem.

[dave]

you're thinking of zaf's problem.

[r-man]

Ok then. Any beta?

[dave]

i've not done it, tried it once, seem to remember getting a pair of shit handholds, and having to rock left onto a foothold that feels a bit spacey. don't think theres much of a trick to it.

[Somebody's Fool]

I've seen people warm up for this by trying to knee themselves in the face. This is to facilitate the high step with the left foot. 

Once it's up on the pinch of the arete problem, the easiest thing to do is to udge a bit using a pebble for the left hand and then slap out left for the ledge.

I've also seen it been done rocking it out fully off the pebble, with no need to slap out for the ledge.

[r-man]

But how do you get your hands into the right position to start the move? Is it just a case of lock off on the lip hold, right hand up, left hand up? I was undercutting to the seam, then moving hands around. Perhaps I'm making it more complicated than it needs to be.

[Bonjoy]

Is it just a case of lock off on the lip hold, right hand up, left hand up?

Yep. Like SF say's, the top is all about using the unobvious pebble.

[r-man]

Ok. Cheers people. I'll bin my whack beta.

[Johnny Brown]

I was undercutting to the seam, then moving hands around.

No.

Is it just a case of lock off on the lip hold, right hand up, left hand up?

Nearly. From the pinches on the lip I go left hand right hand. Left foot on obvious foothold, right foot toe hook. Obviously this is gravy though, the only hard move is the next one. Thumb drags below the seam are crucial, there are nice divots or pebbles for both.

[Nigel]

...right foot toe hook. ... Thumb drags below the seam are crucial, there are nice divots or pebbles for both.

I'm confused by these tips (toe hooks?), it all seems more complex than it needs to be. R-man, for simplicity:

1. Pinch lip, reach seam (LH first like JB is good beta).
2. Left foot up on pinch of arete prob, rockover.
3. Two options now, either pebble intermediate out left to keep rocking for ledge OR small pebble straight up allowing you to reach RH straight through to break. In my opinion this second sequence is a touch easier (I find the ledge quite a reach).

Who will be KING?

[r-man]

Thanks. Will try again when we get another cold day...

[tomtom]

Resurrection - and the beta above is for a different problem...

Anyway, been trying this on and off for the past few weeks (when pissed off with Blind Date) and all is fine apart from the move about mid way where you bring your LH further along the lip - with the low undercut with the RH. Its the move at 2:17 to 2:19 in daves vid below



Dave does this with the right heel lock still in, but looking at 205Chris video it looks like he brings his feet down to pull more conventionally on the undercut. When I try it with the heel in it just feels rather contorted and desparate (though I do slap somewhere along the lip). Is this move one of those 'fall into it and grab the right bit' moves - that I just need to commit to more/practice or is there more to it than this..

The next part getting the knee bar established looks a bit tricky too, though despite having not done that it felt more do-able than the move above...

[dave]

I just fall into it these days but it is a weird way of doing it. If I was new to the problem id go the more conventional undercut-with-feet-low way.

[Dolly]

That's how I've done it as well -  with feet low. I still can't get into the knee bar though. Maybe you can power spot me (ie carry me) on in TT if you fancy a sess on it ?

[205Chris]

Resurrection - and the beta above is for a different problem...

Anyway, been trying this on and off for the past few weeks (when pissed off with Blind Date) and all is fine apart from the move about mid way where you bring your LH further along the lip - with the low undercut with the RH. Its the move at 2:17 to 2:19 in daves vid below

Dave does this with the right heel lock still in, but looking at 205Chris video it looks like he brings his feet down to pull more conventionally on the undercut. When I try it with the heel in it just feels rather contorted and desparate (though I do slap somewhere along the lip). Is this move one of those 'fall into it and grab the right bit' moves - that I just need to commit to more/practice or is there more to it than this..

The next part getting the knee bar established looks a bit tricky too, though despite having not done that it felt more do-able than the move above...

Once I've got the undercut with the right hand I actually put the knee bar in before moving the left hand if that makes sense?

If you can get the knee in (it's not bomber by any means) then the move feels pretty steady. Once you've moved the left hand, lock the LF heel toe in (keep the knee bar in) and it makes reaching out the to Blind Date hold steady away.

[dave]

I've done it getting in that early kneebar in but found  after getting LH on the lip I needed to adjust the knee a bit to get it deeper and in a different place, and the twisting of the foot and change of position this entailed would tend to twist my right root off the foothold, so although in made the move to the lip easier it was not a net win.

[tomtom]

Thanks both. Holding that undercut whilst jizzing about with my feet placement is hard for me. Some food for thought with the knee bar in next though. Btw - is that the hard bit?

[cheque]

Holding that undercut whilst jizzing

I'd stick to one thing at a time 'til you've done it at least once.

[tomtom]

Holding that undercut whilst jizzing

I'd stick to one thing at a time 'til you've done it at least once.

You've not seen my footwork