[The Sausage]

Does anyone find these kind of exercises(one armers deadhangs and campusing) has a detrimental affect on their climbing grade, as their energy is going away from climbing on rock.

What would be a good ratio for these exercises against actual climbing ?

2 days climbing/ 2 sessions of exercises per week could be doable for me. 

The questions you need to ask yourself are "what are my weaknesses?" and "what do I need to improve on to do the routes/problems that I aspire to?" If you can do 1-4-7 on a campus board, but struggle to climb 7a+ outdoors, then yes, climbing is going to be a better use of your time. If you have climbed outside a lot, and feel you have hit a ceiling on certain problems due to lack of power, you need to work on your power.

Are your weaknesses locking big holds? arm/shoulder strength exercises are the way to go. Do you struggle to generate movement when foot holds are poor? possibly work on your power.

The problem many climbers have is that they want to be improving continuously and climbing well all year round. My advice would be to look at the year ahead and decide when you want to be climbing well, and when you are going to have time to train. This is what ALL other sports people do.

Overall I would say that no, your climbing won't suffer by doing specific strength training. I know I'm a long way off being any good, but I have improved significantly over the past couple of years by working on basic strength. But then I'm made of twigs.

[richdraws]

Start doing lots of sprinting, jumping, stiff leg deadlifts etc and soon you will piss up stuff with some heel hook ninja strength. Obviously you have to avoid many problems and claim they look shit or something.... 

[Jaspersharpe]

Obviously you have to avoid many problems and claim they look shit or something....

.........like everyone else does.

[saltbeef]

Obviously you have to avoid many problems and claim they look shit or something....

.........like dense does.

[carefultorque]

Obviously you have to avoid many problems and claim they look shit or something.... 

I thought that's what was meant by bouldering.  Drang.  I've thought-ticked a lot of problems this way.
Back to the drawing board.

[leek_lad]

Do you understand the difference between power and strength? Strength is about maximum load, power has a velocity element, and as such require different training methods.

To improve strength, you need to be doing things like dead hanging, weighted or 1 arm pull ups, weights etc. To improve power, things like campussing, hrd problems are the way to go. It is important to keep it basic and repetitive. If you're doing 'problems' your gains will come from learning the moves, rather than strength increases.

I think a campus board is great, but get a good routine, don't just try and do the biggest moves you can - check out various campus board threads on here. If you are doing problems, do the same ones but add a weight belt or eliminate foot holds.

I agree that there is a difference between the two, though my experience with strength training has shown that the two are not worked in isolation to each other i.e. work on working on strength also improves power.

[jed]

Not necessarily hOU.  Hashimoto's Thyroiditis is a specific problem whereby you have hypothyroidism due to an autoimmune problem.  You can get underactive thyroid for other reasons too.
SCIENCE

Like a lack of salt???