[jed]

I'm currently experimenting with power/strength training at the moment and could do with some feedback/advice.

My sessions at the moment consist of trying 1 - 2 move problems at my very limit, and it tends to take me 2-3 sessions before I get them done.

The down side to this level of intensity is I'm only able to train like this 2 days a week.

Is it worth it?
And has anyone else experimented with this level of intensity to gain results?

(Sorry Ive just read that back and I sound like a right boring twat!!! )

 

[Paul B]

I think this kind of training is best done in a more specific manner e.g. on a campus board or finger board. But that's just my 2p.
Why can you only train two days a week?

[superfurrymonkey]

I trained for a month with a weight belt doing problems I was comfortable with and linking some of them together which did wonders for my power and there were gains in finger strength too, which was nice! Oh on indoor problems I should add.

[The Sausage]

Do you understand the difference between power and strength? Strength is about maximum load, power has a velocity element, and as such require different training methods.

To improve strength, you need to be doing things like dead hanging, weighted or 1 arm pull ups, weights etc. To improve power, things like campussing, hrd problems are the way to go. It is important to keep it basic and repetitive. If you're doing 'problems' your gains will come from learning the moves, rather than strength increases.

I think a campus board is great, but get a good routine, don't just try and do the biggest moves you can - check out various campus board threads on here. If you are doing problems, do the same ones but add a weight belt or eliminate foot holds.

[carefultorque]

Why can you only train two days a week?

Recovery, I'm guessing?

[Paul B]

I'm not quite that stupid.

I can't see why it would take anyone that long to recover, even if they're a veggie.

[Nibile]

maybe too much volume in the same session, or not being prepared to strength training at that level with the whole body.

[Paul B]

maybe too much volume in the same session, or not being prepared to strength training at that level with the whole body.

Yes but surely everybody knows now that stopping strong is the way forward and hopefully they know if the type of training they are embarking on is suitable for them.
I was trying to identify why 'he' (or she) thinks they can only do one or two sessions per week?

[Houdini]

Jed's avatar looks young.

But age would be a factor.  For me a bitchin' session would easily need 2 perhaps 3 days rest.

[k2ted]

same here too. 2-3 days rest after hard session is quite norm. Sometimes 4days rest but think thats when Ive overdone it.

Upping protein at moment to every 4hrs (when awake).

[abarro81]

Upping protein at moment to every 4hrs (when awake).

Shakes every 4 hours?! You're gonna be a farting machine in no time...

[jed]

Thanks for the replies.


It takes me at least three days to recover from these sessions and I don't believe I'm making the obvious errors.I stop feeling strong, eat at least 30g of protein after sessions, stretch on rest days.I do however have a slight thyroid problem that is currently getting sorted.

I'm 24 and not that strong (v7-8), but only been climbing 4 years that me be a factor also, not sure.

Ive tried campus boards before I will have to re investigate

[r-man]

How long are your sessions?

[jed]

90 minute sessions

[Paul B]

I do however have a slight thyroid problem that is currently getting sorted.

Maybe wait until that is sorted and then see how this kind of training goes. I'd back what le sausage says and split your sessions up a bit more and be even more specific. It all boils down to what uncle (  ) said in the other thread.

[jed]

Fair comment.

I'm still confused
Weather to stick with this intensity of training (every so often) but use the campus board or to do 1 hour seesions and go from 2 sessions to 3-4 sessions.

I suppose what I'm concerned about is that I'm training hard but by doing only 2 sessions its all in vain.


I understand the difference between strength and power but don't see this as an important distinction.

[Houdini]

Thyroid?

Is this Hashimoto's syndrome/disorder thingy?

[jed]

Its underactive (basicly its a lazy twat!!!)

 It means my body functions are slower

[jed]

After reading the whole thread through again I'm beginning to understand where your coming from(Le Sausage and Paul)

I think maybe specifically working on an area as Le Sausage described for 4-6 weeks may be the best way to go.

Does anyone find these kind of exercises(one armers deadhangs and campusing) has a detrimental affect on their climbing grade, as their energy is going away from climbing on rock.

What would be a good ratio for these exercises against actual climbing ?

2 days climbing/ 2 sessions of exercises per week could be doable for me. 

[Jaspersharpe]

Mate of mine had an underactive thyroid a few years back. He felt sluggish all the time and put weight on etc despite exercising properly. He was given some tablets which sorted the problem 100%.

I agree with Paul B. Wait until the problem is under control before assessing how you think your training is going. It could, and probably will, make a huge difference.

[Houdini]

Its underactive (basicly its a lazy twat!!!)

 It means my body functions are slower

You have Hashimoto's.

[Houdini]

Fraudini has Hashimoto's Thyroid fuck.

5 months of L-thyroxine replacement therapy before back to normal.

[GCW]

Not necessarily hOU.  Hashimoto's Thyroiditis is a specific problem whereby you have hypothyroidism due to an autoimmune problem.  You can get underactive thyroid for other reasons too.
SCIENCE 

[jed]

Are you surgesting im a fat git!!!

Only yoking

Thankyou for the advice good to know its easily sorted.
Its a strange situation really Ive find myself thinking "I dont feel tired do I?"

Apparently It also makes me feel the cold and to quote the doctor "Weak" Thanks doc (tell me something I dont know)

[jed]

Fuck me!

just looked at that last post, worryingly bad spelling and grammar!!!

[The Sausage]

Does anyone find these kind of exercises(one armers deadhangs and campusing) has a detrimental affect on their climbing grade, as their energy is going away from climbing on rock.

What would be a good ratio for these exercises against actual climbing ?

2 days climbing/ 2 sessions of exercises per week could be doable for me. 

The questions you need to ask yourself are "what are my weaknesses?" and "what do I need to improve on to do the routes/problems that I aspire to?" If you can do 1-4-7 on a campus board, but struggle to climb 7a+ outdoors, then yes, climbing is going to be a better use of your time. If you have climbed outside a lot, and feel you have hit a ceiling on certain problems due to lack of power, you need to work on your power.

Are your weaknesses locking big holds? arm/shoulder strength exercises are the way to go. Do you struggle to generate movement when foot holds are poor? possibly work on your power.

The problem many climbers have is that they want to be improving continuously and climbing well all year round. My advice would be to look at the year ahead and decide when you want to be climbing well, and when you are going to have time to train. This is what ALL other sports people do.

Overall I would say that no, your climbing won't suffer by doing specific strength training. I know I'm a long way off being any good, but I have improved significantly over the past couple of years by working on basic strength. But then I'm made of twigs.

[richdraws]

Start doing lots of sprinting, jumping, stiff leg deadlifts etc and soon you will piss up stuff with some heel hook ninja strength. Obviously you have to avoid many problems and claim they look shit or something.... 

[Jaspersharpe]

Obviously you have to avoid many problems and claim they look shit or something....

.........like everyone else does.

[saltbeef]

Obviously you have to avoid many problems and claim they look shit or something....

.........like dense does.

[carefultorque]

Obviously you have to avoid many problems and claim they look shit or something.... 

I thought that's what was meant by bouldering.  Drang.  I've thought-ticked a lot of problems this way.
Back to the drawing board.

[leek_lad]

Do you understand the difference between power and strength? Strength is about maximum load, power has a velocity element, and as such require different training methods.

To improve strength, you need to be doing things like dead hanging, weighted or 1 arm pull ups, weights etc. To improve power, things like campussing, hrd problems are the way to go. It is important to keep it basic and repetitive. If you're doing 'problems' your gains will come from learning the moves, rather than strength increases.

I think a campus board is great, but get a good routine, don't just try and do the biggest moves you can - check out various campus board threads on here. If you are doing problems, do the same ones but add a weight belt or eliminate foot holds.

I agree that there is a difference between the two, though my experience with strength training has shown that the two are not worked in isolation to each other i.e. work on working on strength also improves power.

[jed]

Not necessarily hOU.  Hashimoto's Thyroiditis is a specific problem whereby you have hypothyroidism due to an autoimmune problem.  You can get underactive thyroid for other reasons too.
SCIENCE

Like a lack of salt???