posted by: guest date: 2002-09-05 time: 22:08:47 reply x
I`ve just spent a solid week working on the guide (23,000 words so far!) and I feel like I`ve made giant steps toward that elusive finishing line (that I`ve been chasing for the last 2 years).
It finally feels like it is coming together and I hope to sort out all the niggling problems over the next month.
So, if anybody wishes to make a contribution, pass comment or even just express an opinion about their experiences of bouldering in N Wales, now is the time.
I am genuinely interested in what you think. I am particularly interested in the outsider/ occasional visitor`s view; after all, that is who the guide is aimed at.
Cheers, Simon Panton.
postId: 558 posted by: mike date: 2002-09-06 time: 06:36:24 reply x
In reply to post 556:
Keep up the good work Simon, lots of people are eagerly awaiting this
guide - I was witness to Nick White`s labour of love that was the South
Devon guidebook and know the amount of effort that goes into such things.
ps, drop us a mail to mike@ukbouldering.com and I`ll give you a proper
login if you like - I`ve not still got your email address.
postId: 560 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-06 time: 11:47:25 reply x
In reply to post 556:
yo si
a few weeks ago i went to north wales for the first time specifically to
boulder - had a great time. I particularly liked sheep pen boulders -
amazing place. The pinch problem is very good, as are all the problems
there come to think of it. I think the topo we had said gnasher was V8,
which i thought was rather generous. ALso i think it said Lipstick at
parisellas vas V7 , which again i thought was abit of a giveaway. Also
went to do caseg groove whichwas of course great. another gem.
Can`t wait to get back in the winter.
postId: 566 posted by: Simon Panton date: 2002-09-07 time: 22:58:35 reply x
In reply to post 560:
Dave, it sounds like you`re on the same wavelength (so to speak). I love
the Sheep Pen boulders; particularly all the slopey stamina links on the
main face. The new topo is a significant departure from the confusion of
the Northern Soul fanzine that I imagine you are working from. I`ve
rationalised this as much as possible and added a number of excellent V5s
on the surrounding boulders. The new consensus grades for the problems you
mention are as follows:
The Pinch V7 (2 possible methods: 1. traditional dyno, 2. semi-controlled
rockover.)
Gnasher V6/7
Lipstick V6
Caseg Groove V5 (How good is this problem!)
Anyway, glad to hear that people are getting out and about.
(Bob Smith and a group of Northumberland lads turned up yesterday.)
Cheers, Simon.
postId: 568 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-09 time: 08:56:14 reply x
In reply to post 566:
Hi Simon,
Really looking forward to seeing your guide. I’ve been across bouldering
in North Wales a couple of weekends this summer and had great fun.
Wavelength area last month and then last weekend a group of us headed
across and toured some places we’d never been to before: Sheep Pen, Lady
of Snowdon, Caseg Boulder and Milestone Buttress Boulders. We came in to
the shop to say hello but were told you had rented a huge chateau in
Burgundy so that you and your editorial assistants could work on the guide
in peace.
Thought all the new - to us - venues were good except for Lady of Snowdon
where we only found one arete we thought worthwhile. Can’t remember the
name of the arete but it was very good. The topo we had – from a recent
OTE – gave it V7/8. The topo didn’t say so but we presume that’s from
sitting which felt about right. V4 or 5 from standing?
Sheep Pen is a great place. Thought Kingdom of Rain was fun but not V7.
V6?
Shame there isn’t more of the Caseg Boulder. The groove is fantastic.
Again, shame there isn’t more in the Milestone Buttress boulders. The pit
problems are good. Met a guy on a trials mountain bike there. It was
stupendous what he could do. I filmed him jumping from the top of the
boulder on which the pit problems are, across the boulder-strewn gap to
the next boulder. Terrifying watching him. If he’d made a mistake he would
have been very lucky to walk away. We felt a bit silly in comparison with
our big crash pads.
Wavelength visit was blessed with great weather and I visited some bits
I’d never seen before. The Domes had always been wet on previous trips but
was dry this time. Thought The Ramp was a classic, and found it especially
involving as I knew that if I came off, my mat would immediately hurtle
off down the steep wet grass with me on board and it would end in tears.
Nipped across to do Moose’s Toothpaste as well. That deserves attention,
it’s a classic.
Haven’t got Northern Soul here (at work) but I can bring it tomorrow to
comment more specifically. What sort of feedback do you want? I can give
complete lists of the problems we did and have done in the past and the
grades we think they are if that would be useful.
Cheers,
Mark Hundleby
postId: 569 posted by: Lucian date: 2002-09-09 time: 10:48:41 reply x
In reply to post 568:
Good to here bout the guide Si
got some time on me hands at mo so might nip across now the weather is a
chillin down a bit! was across sevral weeks ago and actully did some
routes with perry!!!Harness`s and everything!! Went to that old fave Hy
dremm(spelling???)while it pissed it down!
Would be good to get some info on some of the newer areas, could test
drive your guide if you want. now that im a well seasoned travelling
boulderer i could really get imeshed in the controversy of grades(ho ho,
lets sand bag evryone)
Any way good effort on the guide and catch yuh later
lucian
postId: 570 posted by: Lucian date: 2002-09-09 time: 10:49:53 reply x
In reply to post 569:
p.s the casseg groove is prob the best problem ive done in N.Wales
postId: 571 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-09 time: 11:14:29 reply x
In reply to post 568:
"Thought Kingdom of Rain was fun but not V7.
V6?"
I though kingdom of rain was pretty hard - i struggled on the first move
for ages. In comparison i got gnasher and the pinch in 3/4 goes.
postId: 572 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-09 time: 11:26:44 reply x
In reply to post 571:
Did you spot the heelhook out right? Key beta for thammers like me!
Mark
postId: 573 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-09 time: 11:50:36 reply x
In reply to post 572:
no, i was there with a "local activist" who assured me that the way to do
it was just to lunge over for that slopey slot. To be fair when i got it
it was a pretty amazing move, so i`m not that bothered. Jerry`s problem
looked nails.
postId: 574 posted by: Simon Panton date: 2002-09-09 time: 20:47:12 reply x
In reply to post 568:
Hiya Mark, long time no see.
I had heard from my spies that you`d been over (John Barton`s stag do?)
with Mr Welford, Robin and others.
Firstly, I`d like to apologise for the Snowdon Lady Boulders. This is
strictly a `locals` crag. I had looked at it about 5 years ago, but
dismissed it as something to come back to once all the really good stuff
had been cleaned up. I went back up at the start of the summer with Rhys
Parry (after Mark Evans gave me a topo) and we were both quite
disappointed. There are one or two good problems, but on the whole it is a
minor/ obscure area and it will be described as such in the guide. The
arete you mention is a confusing problem. It was done and described in OTE
from a semi-crouching start. I felt it should either be a hard sit down,
or an easy stand up. I don`t like problems that require specific hand
position starts, although there are several to be included in the guide.
In the end, some eliminates have enough character to be worth describing,
and some don`t.
I would be very interested to see a list of the problems you and the boys
did on your recent/ past visits. Post it on here, and I`ll let you know
what the local consensus is. I have tried to weed out the bloated grades,
without being too nasty in the pursuit of lower, more realistic gradings.
For example it has been suggested (by Ray Wood) that The Ramp is V4, but
that Moose` Toothpaste is V5.
It`s always good to get a different perspective; your heel hook sequence
on KOR is particularly interesting.
Cheers, Simon.
postId: 575 posted by: Simon Panton date: 2002-09-09 time: 20:54:25 reply x
In reply to post 570:
Lucien, if you`ve gotten time on your hands then come up and see me. I`m
more than willing to despatch you into the wilderness, clutching test
topos. I dare say your recent globe trotting experiences will be of use.
Speak to you soon,
Simon.
postId: 576 posted by: Simon Panton date: 2002-09-09 time: 20:57:05 reply x
In reply to post 570:
Sorry Lucian, I spelt your name wrong in the last post.
postId: 580 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-11 time: 12:18:50 reply x
In reply to post 574:
Hi Simon,
Here are some thoughts on various problems done during my two visits this
summer. I`ve not bothered with stuff I`ve done before that as I don`t
think my memory would be accurate enough to make it worthwhile.
Sheep Pen Boulders
Kingdom of Rain V6 Brilliant problem. Two heelhooks and a big slap for
the top.
Dog Shooter V6 I thought this and Kingdom of Rain were about the same
difficulty. If anything, I found Dog Shooter a bit harder.
Wavelength
King of Drunks sit start V6 My sequence at the finish was... a big
Egyptian to stretch left for a little edge before the golf ball, right
hand to sloper on the lip, snatch golf ball with left hand. Is that JD`s
sequence?
Left Wedgie V3 or 4
Boysen`s Groove V3
The Ramp Fantastic, not sure how hard.
Moose`s Toothpaste Classic problem. I wouldn`t have a problem with giving
this V6. I found it harder than most of the 7as I`ve done in Font.
Milestone Buttress
Pit Arete V4
Sit start left of steep arete V6
Jumping a mountain bike from the top of Pit Arete across to the boulder
containing Crouchathon Vscary
Caseg Boulder
Caseg Groove V5 As good as it gets. And how great does the sit start
look? If only I was strong enough.
I asked Robin for his thoughts on a couple of problems I failed to do last
weekend which he managed...
Sheep Pen Boulders
The Pinch V8
Gnasher V6/7
Milestone Buttress
Harvey Oswald V8
John Welford`s heading across to Wales this weekend. He said he`d come in
to the shop and downgrade all the problems he`d done! He wants to visit
Nant Mor so make sure you viciously sandbag him.
Hope this is some help. Take my gradings with a pinch of salt. I can be
pretty unreliable and often disagree wildly with concensus gradings,
especially if kneebars are involved! Give a shout if you want anyone to
help with proof-reading or the like, I`ll be happy to help.
Cheers,
Mark
postId: 581 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-11 time: 12:26:59 reply x
In reply to post 580:
Dog shooter V6?? theres no way this is anywhere near the kind of
difficulty of KOR. I flashed DogShooter (and the one next to it, dirty
slapper?) whilst trying vainly to warm up, whereas KOR took me quite a
while to do. both dog shooter and dirty slapper are V5 at a push, maybe
easier.
postId: 582 posted by: mark date: 2002-09-11 time: 12:51:19 reply x
In reply to post 581:
Really? Depends what your strengths are, I suppose. I found it hard to
hold the flatty on Dog Shooter and reach the poor pocket on the left.
While on KOR I had heelhooks in for all but one move to the pocket, so for
me there was only one powerful move, the rest was just a bit technical.
Maybe I was missing some cunning footwork on DS.
Reinforces my belief that the idea of objective grading is daft. Hang on,
if I believe that then why am I contributing my own thoughts on grades?
Because it`s a good source of argument.
postId: 583 posted by: Simon Panton date: 2002-09-11 time: 13:43:28 reply x
In reply to post 580:
Thanks Mark.
From the top, here are my thoughts:
Dog Shooter from a hang on the chest high edges V5, but V7 from the sd at
base of Toe Dragon (which is really the same problem as Dirty slapper)
Incidentally this is V5 only if done from the sd at the base of the slight
groove/crack feature.
If you`ve found an easier sequence on KOR then that should be the grade,
so V6 it is (subject to checking)
KOD V6 JD`s sequence involves stretching all the way to the golf ball from
the finger jug.
Wedgie Lhand V4 at least you tight bastard!
Boysen`s Groove I agree with you, but I don`t think anyone else does. V4
might stay for this one.
The Ramp now down as V4 (with a sd start possible at V?)
Moose` Toothpaste I was going to drop this to V4, but Ray complained so
much it stays at V5. I haven`t done it for ages so maybe you`re right.
Everything seems ok, but Harvey Oswald is dropping to V6/7 (same for
Gnasher) and the Pinch is now V7.
Tell John there is a killer unclimbed micro route (similar to The Crack at
Froggatt) at Nant Mor. Of course I expect the usual payment for quality
project info like this.
Cheers, Simon.
PS My current top tip is the free standing boulders on the beach about 3-
400 metres beyond Pidgeon`s Cave. I went back last night to do some
checking and was pleasantly surprised by how good it was (I hadn`t been
there since `98). Same as Angel Bay, make sure you go on a windy day.
postId: 584 posted by: dave date: 2002-09-11 time: 13:51:50 reply x
In reply to post 583:
has the full-ish traverse of the main sheep-pen wall been done? i figured
start on the right and finish up gnasher looked reasonable. whats da grade?
postId: 586 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-11 time: 16:17:52 reply x
In reply to post 584:
sit start to the ramp - v5 (simon - see rocktalk thread or email i sent
you)
postId: 587 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-11 time: 16:20:27 reply x
In reply to post 586:
another Nth Wales grade question:
unnamed problem that starts under diesel power, traverses along ledge
(campus/heelhooks etc) and then (a) up the arete or (b) around onto the
face and up the ramp line. both felt hard with (a) maybe v6 and (b)
v8??? dreaming?
postId: 589 posted by: Simon Panton date: 2002-09-11 time: 19:47:42 reply x
In reply to post 584:
This has not been done yet. Both Mark Katz and Chris Davies have done the
moves from KOR into Gnasher, but neither has been back to sort out the
link.
I was there doing some drawing when Mark did the moves. He reckoned they
weren`t too bad on their own, but no doubt the connection will be pumpy
V10 or perhaps V11?
Why not give it a go?
Cheers, Simon
postId: 590 posted by: Simon Panton date: 2002-09-11 time: 19:57:28 reply x
In reply to post 587:
Problem A has been christened Cave Route, and I reckon it is one of the
best pieces of climbing at the Cromlech. V6 seems about right.
Problem B is known as Roadside Basic and V7 is the grade. If you extend
across the wall beneath the ramp then go up the V3 just right of the ramp
end you get Rampless V8 or V8+. Finally, continuing into the Edge Problem
is V9. George Smith has also done a left hand finish to Cave Route, back
leftwards along the lip of the cave at V7.
Any more questions?
Cheers, Simon.
postId: 592 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-12 time: 12:44:08 reply x
In reply to post 590:
cheers simon.
that Cave Route problem is very sweet indeed. nice pumpy moves and a few
tricky bits to top it out. a good one to get wired.
two more questions, both about problems at cromlech
1. there`s a small overhanging arete on the western cluster of boulders (i
think there might be a jonny dawes dyno on the small overhanging wall next
to this arete. anyway, you can bum start the arete either by starting in
a large crack at the back or do the direct version off some small crimps
and little foot chips. either way you end up throwing of a pinch for a
good pocket followed by a rock over to top out. does this arete have a
name/grade (maybe about v4/5?)
2. around the back of this boulder is a steep short wall that runs from
left to right (broken by a big offwidth). there is a small bum start
about 2 metres right of the offwidth that is a fierce little pull on (in a
shallow groove thing off a sharp undercut) and slap for a slopey lip. you
then traverse left slighty before rocking up over the lip and then on up a
long but easy slab. cool problem - about v5?
postId: 598 posted by: Simon Panton date: 2002-09-12 time: 18:27:55 reply x
In reply to post 592:
1. I`ve got it down as V4/5 from a start in Brown`s Crack. It doesn`t
appear to have a name. Johnny`s dyno is known as Superior Air V8.
2. This is called Backshot. I originally did it slapping the lip with my
left hand, but Ray Wood suggested slapping with the right hand. Both ways
give great moves. It is usually done moving right at the lip through the
crux of the Lefthand Back Traverse (V5) and I`m hovering between V5 and V6
for this. I guess the way you have described is the line of easier
resistance, so V5 might be right. Crispin showed me a V4 problem that
follows the right edge of the off width from a sit down start (eliminating
all holds left of the crack), then up through the tricky bulge to gain the
upper slab. I imagine this is common ground for your finish to Backshot.
postId: 602 posted by: guest date: 2002-09-13 time: 09:15:16 reply x
In reply to post 598:
cheers simon
problem 1 is better from a direct sit start (small crimps on both sides)
makes the pull off the right pinch to the pocket a little more difficult
(v5)
Backshot is cool. i went out to the lip with the right hand and then
along left to gain a good jug over the lip and up the slab. on
reflection, i would say v6 was fair because the pull on to the slab is a
little tricky as well.
no more questions (for now)
