People donated to the PBF based on the premiss that the funds were for re-equipping only and no retro bolting. Within these rules any sport routes in the Peak area (doesn't have to be in the Peak park itself) can be done.
I wouldn't big us up too much. So far we've done ok with the fund raising, but not really achieved much re-bolting.
Quote from: belperpete on April 10, 2008, 05:33:54 pmJon's Autumn 2007 free ascents of Limelight and Squeezing out Sparks have not been repeated yet!What grade did he give squeezin? Did he rebolt this as well or were my approved resin bolts sufficient?
Jon's Autumn 2007 free ascents of Limelight and Squeezing out Sparks have not been repeated yet!
Quote from: belperpete on April 11, 2008, 03:45:29 pmI did the trad lines here well before Pete Cresswell etc. put up the newer (and mostly excellent) sport stuff. Not the nicest place to climb but if you can put that aside, it's got the climbing. On The Road E2/3 5c (up the enormous leaning corner) is a brilliant route as well as some of the other older lines. But, they're trad and, on a crag like this will never get the attention they deserve (if any). What would people think about these being equipped (not bolt fund resources!) so it's purely sport there? That would open up a number of quality mid grade lines and it's hardly going to threaten the fabric of our mainly trad scene. Personally, I'm up for doing this but don't know what to do Do these fall outside the geographical locale for the Peak Bolt Fund? If not is there any barrier to using resources from PBF to bolt lower graded routes, or is it only for the elite? (Assuming the resources are available of course).Just polite enquiry, I've no agenda/axe to grind and don't want to start an argument.Good work to those who have set up and done so much work for the PBF to-date.
I did the trad lines here well before Pete Cresswell etc. put up the newer (and mostly excellent) sport stuff. Not the nicest place to climb but if you can put that aside, it's got the climbing. On The Road E2/3 5c (up the enormous leaning corner) is a brilliant route as well as some of the other older lines. But, they're trad and, on a crag like this will never get the attention they deserve (if any). What would people think about these being equipped (not bolt fund resources!) so it's purely sport there? That would open up a number of quality mid grade lines and it's hardly going to threaten the fabric of our mainly trad scene. Personally, I'm up for doing this but don't know what to do
People donated to the PBF based on the premiss that the funds were for re-equipping only and no retro bolting. Within these rules any sport routes in the Peak area (doesn't have to be in the Peak park itself) can be done.I wouldn't big us up too much. So far we've done ok with the fund raising, but not really achieved much re-bolting.
Scum Manifesto buttress.
I'm pretty sure it's these http://www.hilti.co.uk/holuk/modules/prcat/prca_printpage.jsp?RANGE_ID=r1534 . They are a 'double fluted helix' design, so they have a cross profile at the tip.
But:Quote from: Bonjoy on April 15, 2008, 08:39:12 amScum Manifesto buttress.Is this buttress horrifically sharp? Society for Cutting Up Men as written by the fruitloop who shot Warhol. I have this pamphlet somewhere...Fascinating read.
Yes, of course. I'm usually in Mon,Wed and Fri after 5pm. Txt or PM me when you want to get them.
Pub Quiz question of the day - "What's the connection between the Manic Street Preahers and Valerie Solanas?"
Of Walking Abortion - Manics tune based on Solanas' SCUM Manifesto proposal that as the male chromosome is an incomplete female chromosome men are incomplete emotionally etc. Fucking mentalist.
Quote from: Jaspersharpe on April 15, 2008, 11:07:44 amOf Walking Abortion - Manics tune based on Solanas' SCUM Manifesto proposal that as the male chromosome is an incomplete female chromosome men are incomplete emotionally etc. Fucking mentalist.I regularly use the excuse "I can't help it - I have a broken chromosome" when I fail to perform some domestic chore correctly or on time, and so must thank Ms Solanas for pointing this out to me.
Yes. Will sort something like that out. A thread on here and something on the PBF website. Zeke must have been bolted by someone unconnect with the PBF.
Thought it worth mentioning a few things, following comments re conditions on Rubicon, Raven Tor .... First, Turkey Dip, near Matlock is in pretty near perfect condition now. 3 routes by Taylor, Hawkins and Plant from 20 years ago were fully bolted, last year by Jon Clark who also added a stack of top quality new ones. New route activity has started again with a brilliant 7c+ and there's more on the way! The place packs a powerful punch for a small crag and I guarantee you'll be impressed. Apart from a warm-up, routes are all 7b and up (and I mean up). Listed in Gary's www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/ this place is a major addition to the contemporary Peak sort scene. Second, although not a place a lot of people think of as linked to sport climbing, High Tor offers a whole bunch of top quality routes, such as Wile e Coyote, High Torquing etc. All been re-geared and, by the way, Jon's Autumn 2007 free ascents of Limelight and Squeezing out Sparks have not been repeated yet! Finally Long Tor, likewise, is in pretty good condition and hosts a whole bunch of brilliant face climbs, like The Boltest, Pistol Fingers etc., with more to come. Sorry to sound like an advert, but there is hard sport climbing South of Stoney, mostly in good condition at the moment and the area should be a must on every hard sport climbers venue list. Be glad to provide more info if you post contact details.
Quote from: Bonjoy on April 14, 2008, 08:30:18 amYes. Will sort something like that out. A thread on here and something on the PBF website. Zeke must have been bolted by someone unconnect with the PBF.Hi Jon, Heard that Kristian Clemmow rebolted Zeke. Second hand beta though so not certain.
New Bridge buttress at Wildcat might also be worth checking out.
Hi Pete, I agree with you that Lorry Park could do with a makeover but I'm not sure that should include retro bolting the crack lines. Their probably unclimable in there current condition in fact I think theres a rather large bush growing in one crack line. Last time I paid a visit got molested by some travellers dogs, I reckon your best approaching from the DCC car park round the back of John Hadfield House instead of running the gauntlet.Ian was keen to do the cracks a few years back (trad of course) not sure if he got round to it due to their state.Is bend tor on your adgenda as well ?All the best MarkL
I'd vote for them to be bolted.Had a look in here not too long ago and, as Belperpete says, the cracks are in a bit of a state. Once cleaned, the only way they will ever stay clean is if they have shiny bolts sticking out every now and then. I'd be keen to climb them in that state.Had a good day at Turkey Dip a couple of weeks ago. Check it out people, its worth a visit!
