[r-man]

There have been a few additions to Baslow in recent times, but details have all ended up buried in random threads. As I did another new one last week, I thought it might be good to big them all up...

1. Something I discovered on Sunday, which turned out to be much better than it looked. It's a bulge on the left end of the boulder round the side of the Flatworld block.

Lilliput, 7a+
From the two lowest holds, chase the edges over the bulge, making judicious use of the foot ramp.

Here's a video from a crap angle, of a rather sloppy ascent. Hitting the top hold I realised I hadn't cleaned the moss off the back, and just had to squeeze the squidge as my body bounced around. All good fun. Notice the hail - crazy weather that day.



2. Andy B mentioned this on another thread, so I assume it's ok to mention it here. Further along the hillside from Fact hunt is another wall, that is easiest to get to from the top track. It is vertical, slightly highball, and on excellent rock. Problems developed by Cofe and Andy B:

The left arete. 6b
(what's this called cofe?)

Glove Love 7a
The wall up hairline cracks left of centre

Honeypot Wall 6b
The central line  (an Al Williams problem)

Mangina 6c
Direct/righthand start to Honeypot Wall.

Andy B also did a very small sit start lip and rock over problem up behind and to the right of Honeypot Wall at 7aish

3. Some time ago Neil Travers did some new problems, which are well worth seeking out. Find a path down from the top shortly before the big house-sized boulder down on the slope, assuming you are walking in from Curbar end. This is all uphill from the walnut. The problems are on the edge, so you don't need to scramble downhill at all. Very good problems.

Undercutting, 7a+
Climb the wall 1 metre left of the arête to the obvious notch without using the arête.

To avoid confusion, the problem starts "about 1m left of the arete slightly up the bank with right hand on thin undercut/pinch and left on small edge, followed by funny left hand flick to 2 finger undercut to gain the obvious undercut with your right hand."

Heart Stopper 6c
Climb the arête from a sit start, don’t use the notch out left.

I'm not entirely convinced about the need to ss and eliminate on this one. From standing, with the notch, it is an excellent done-years-ago highball 6b:

The Ripper (strict) 7c
Climb the wall to the right to it’s highest point without using the arête at all, and without veering left at the top.

Nice undercutting to balance up to a couple of small crimps, step up on more smears and bang for the top.

The Ripper (with arete) 7a+
A blind foothold on the arete enables a stiff rock leftwards for the finishing jug.

The Ripper:


Non-eliminate version of undercutting:


4. Elmer Fudd. For those people who can't be bothered to read the grade changes thread, but who have been confused by Elmer Fudd, consenus seems to be that there are two lines:

Elmer Fudd left-hand 6c+
Climb the wall just right of the arete

Elmer Fudd right-hand 7a
Climb the wall using the starting foothold of Fatworld. Move left and up via poor holds.

[Kingy]

Nice work R-man I may have a butchers at this lot next time I'm up there.

[mark]

Was out at Baslow today and repeated your problem Lilliput. Good little problem. Enjoyed it so much in fact that I climbed it twice with completely different sequences. Did it the way you do in the vid but also did it by putting a left heel in the little diagonal break on the left - the start handholds in your vid - and rocking high for the top. Good find, r-man.

[r-man]

Cool. Glad you liked. I did wonder later if a heel-rockover was possible. Perhaps it merits a different name/description? Lilliput Left - use a heel to rock straight to the top? Or pick another name. Grade?
 
Shall give it a go next time I'm there.   

[mark]

Cool. Glad you liked. I did wonder later if a heel-rockover was possible. Perhaps it merits a different name/description? Lilliput Left - use a heel to rock straight to the top? Or pick another name. Grade?
 
Shall give it a go next time I'm there.   

I think your name should cover both sequences. The only difference is whether you have your legs to the right or the left.

Grade? Well, both sequences felt about the same, and they both felt about the same as the sitter to Hurry On Sundown which I had just done. Then again, I also failed to do Elmer Fudd once again, so logically Lilliput must be 7a+ but also easier than 7a! Don't ask me, I'm terrible at grading things.

[cofe]

can't remember what the left arete was called. will check. baslow is great.

[Scouse D]

did lilliput and ripper today.
Lilliput was very nice.I thought 7a
Ripper I thought was very good but more like 7b

[Scouse D]

Hurry on sundown sitter felt hard for 7a+. didn't use block in the crack, looked well not kosher

[r-man]

did lilliput and ripper today.
Lilliput was very nice.I thought 7a
Ripper I thought was very good but more like 7b

Yeah, was a toss-up between 7a and + for Lilliput. I wouldn't argue with 7a. Glad its getting some attention, despite the crap video.
Ripper felt 7b to me also. I talked to Neil after and I think he may have had a harder sequence for the top.
There is no BLOCK in the crack of HoD!

[r-man]

Did you do both versions of the Ripper, or just the strict way? Both are worthwhile, with very different cruxes.

[Scouse D]

Just did strict way. Was chasing the numbers,and running out of time!
don't know how you sleep at night after using that 'not-block'/block, not only is it a chockstone it's also covered in mud and grass!

[monkey boy]

Where is ripper and hurry on sun down (what does this look like)? Might go to baslow tomorrow and have a look!

[Scouse D]

Hurry on sundown is the arete right of flatworld. Ripper is the problem mentioned in this thread by rman. There a pic of it too!It's a nice crimpy wall, must have been done in a very static fashion by FA.

[r-man]

don't know how you sleep at night after using that 'not-block'/block, not only is it a chockstone it's also covered in mud and grass!

What madness is this? Assuming you are being serious, maybe there is a block in the crack (I can't remember one) but this isn't the foothold people are referring too. The key foothold is on the arete. It's just that it's very close to the other side of the crack, which makes it feel a bit naughty. Oo er.

[Bonjoy]

Can someone post a photo of the offending footer? My mind is intrigued

[Scouse D]

sounds ok then robin, from your first description I thought you must've meant the chock. I think I now know what you mean.Maybe.

[Bonjoy]

Just did strict way. Was chasing the numbers,and running out of time!
don't know how you sleep at night after using that 'not-block'/block, not only is it a chockstone it's also covered in mud and grass!

Did you do it to the high RH handhold at the top rather than the lower more obvious hold on the left? I assume Travs' original goes to the top high and right. Eliminating the arete seems obvious, but specifying which bit of the top you get seems very contrived to me.
Tried yesterday but it was too warm to be boning that tiny sharp slot. Felt like it would be 7b (to obvious jug at top left) if conditions ok.

[Scouse D]

I finished on the obvious jug. Is that what is meant by not veering left?!!!!
Really?
That is very very contrived!

[r-man]

Correct, the jug isn't in for the hard version. I thought the same as you two, but after talking to Neil I thought I'd better try just to see. Once you've done the move it actually seems the more obvious way - get crimps, quickly step feet up smears then BANG! for the top. Not as awkward as rocking out left. Don't know whether it's easier or harder as I've only done the left version using the arete foothold.

I did argue the point about eliminate-ness with Neil (see Baslow thread) but whether it's contrived or not, the move is certainly much better if you go straight for the top.

[Scouse D]

I suppose it wont be must different as I BANGED for the left jug and got my elbow over it so maybe I should BANG a bit more straight up. (She bangs she bangs. Maybe it should be called Ricky Martin)
To be honest though, it's illogical and pointless cos the Left jug is in a perfect place for a finishing jug. There is nothing about it which screams 'not in', except the rules.

[r-man]

You're BANG on there.

[cofe]

this sounds like a load of bullshit. is there a 'no thumbs' rule too?

this is golf you people. GOLF.

[Kingy]

Hey there people lets keep eliminates to Stoney and Pinches wall please. There is nothing more irritating than climbing a problem and then realising that you didn't (I refer to Zippy's Problem at Minus 10 by way of illustration).

[Bonjoy]

 It's on my list at 7b using no arete and any top. Using the arete is an eliminate on the crack, which is about VD. You can't have it both ways. If no rules/eliminates are allowed on grit then this problem doesn't exist, it's just a bad sequence on a V Diff crack

[Kingy]

I agree. Indulge me and perhaps I can have one tiny rule here. Where the eliminate nature of the problem is such that an obvious adjacent feature overshadows the whole problem, that feature is eliminated and a classic problem results then that is cool. For example Play Hard falls into this category as does the 'Blobsloper' eliminate at Curbar. However, where the eliminate involves missing out specific holds than that gets the  .

[Scouse D]

Without the silly jug rule it's a very nice problem. 'wall R of crack on undercuts and crimps' 7b

[Kingy]

Yeah props to R-man for doing this problem it looks great. I am looking forward to a session at Baslow trying all these beauties!

[r-man]

Without the silly jug rule it's a very nice problem. 'wall R of crack on undercuts and crimps' 7b

You don't need to convince me. But it's interestng that several people have had different opinions on the obvious line. Neil thought the obvious line was without arete and jug. Hearing he'd done a problem here, the first time I went I did what I thought was the obvious line, which was using everything right of the crack (including the arete) - this is 7a+ish. Bonjoy reckons using the arete is eliminate. I thought not using it was eliminate. Such is life.

I think there are two obvious challenges: with arete and without. Having done Neil's eliminate, it's a shame that this probably won't get done again, as it's a great move, but there you go, it doesn't sit well within the rules for grit climbing.

I agree. Indulge me and perhaps I can have one tiny rule here. Where the eliminate nature of the problem is such that an obvious adjacent feature overshadows the whole problem, that feature is eliminated and a classic problem results then that is cool. For example Play Hard falls into this category as does the 'Blobsloper' eliminate at Curbar. However, where the eliminate involves missing out specific holds than that gets the  .

Kingy - I agree that's the way things have been going for some time, but you're forgetting things like Bling Fig and Jerry's Trav at Stanage, which flout your rule most flagrantly.

The Ripper isn't my problem, by the way, it's the work of Neil Travers.

[Kingy]

Kingy - I agree that's the way things have been going for some time, but you're forgetting things like Bling Fig and Jerry's Trav at Stanage, with flout your rule most flagrantly.

The Ripper isn't my problem, by the way, it's the work of Neil Travers.

Oh right I thought it was yours for some reason! I give up with this eliminate thing, its seems too complicated for words. I guess as long as you're enjoying yourself that's the main thing!

[Kingy]

Having done Neil's eliminate, it's a shame that this probably won't get done again, as it's a great move,

It like the way Wolfwang Gullich first did Action Direct and the way Ben Moon was trying it was harder and more direct than the way subsequent repeats have done it but now easier sequences have been found. There is nothing to stop anybody going back and doing it the original way but it will probably never be done.

I may go and try the Ripper eliminate myself, no reason why not.

[travs]

Well you have finally compelled me to pass coment! To suggest that grit is the rock of no eliminates is bollocks just look at these :

Anything on the Business as usual face.
Dope on a slope / Green traverse
Anything on remergence butress
Pooh and 7c to right
Play hard etc and anything else on this block

Back to the problem though. I found that when I had built my feet up high enough to go for the top I was directly below the highest point and so went for this. I must say though that conditions weren't the best and I could hardly stand on the smears, this meant it was virtually impossible to reach out left to the lower jug so had to jump for the top.

[Bonjoy]

 This isn't a perfect world and it's often the case that good problems have encroaching features which if used significantly reduce the appeal of the climbing. I think all but the most puritanical would agree that some level of contrivance/rule making on grit is a good thing and allows more good climbing to be squeezed out of a finite resource. I think most people would also go along with the idea that contrivance/rule making, whilst necessary, should be used sparingly and only where the result is clearly positive. I'd agree that not using the arete fits in with this, but specifying which bit of the top is 'in' seem like uneeded complexity, detracting rather than adding to the quality.

[Scouse D]

certainly not dissing your problem travs, it's brill and a good enough problem without the rules. Good find!

[travs]

Not arguing with any of that, I think this has all come about because Robin asked me which bit of the top I went for when I did the problem and so I told him the high bit because this is what I did. I didn't really intend this to be interpreted as only go for this bit of the top. As I suggested before, the main reason for going for the high point was that I couldn't get out left with my feet high and static on the smears, guess I should have launched from a bit lower! I always thought the problem would settle at somewhere between 7b and 7c but locking static for the top felt desperate!

[r-man]

Cheeky!  I only asked you because you specifically said:

C.   The Ripper, 7c : Climb the wall to the right to it’s highest point without using the arête at all! 7a+ if you use foot holds on the arête and go left at the top.

Anyway, like Scouse said, it's a great problem without the need to be super-eliminate. Nice find! 

[Scouse D]

New problem done tonight and another classic to add to the Baslow circuit. Highball 6c wall following an obvious groove feature in one of the old quarries in the woods. Name to follow.Instant repeats from Dave and Cofe.
Best approach from Gardoms parking. Walk along obvious wide track from the road. A dry stone wall runs alongside on your right. About 100yds before the wall stops turn left into the woods and take care not to walk over the edge(just after a big pile of manure and a pile of broken rocks). Groove feature is obvious. 6c seemed fair although it is high enough to be spicy.
The arete left of it is V1 as is the arete left of that.

[Andy B]

Mother fuckers.

[dave]

this really is a classic feature, the only downside at the moment is it ain't totally clean. clean enough, but don't eat your dinner off it. would need either traffic or an ab rope to get it squeaky, but its still excellent right now.

On the directions front, if you find the quarry full of old chickewire fencing and rubbish, its the one after (west of) that.

[cofe]

the wall:



the face really does say, a lot:

[Scouse D]

the face says 'no spotter'.

[Fiend]

Looks good - and pure. What's the top out like?

[dave]

topout is fine - top break is a jug/positive pretty much all the way along, but the capping stone is a bit mucky and covered in bracken at present so once your hands over the top you can step to the top of the arete, its the obvious thing to do. would be fine to et the blinkers out and top out more directly if it ever gets excavated properly.

the arete left of it, and the left arete of the next wall left are good warmups.

[Scouse D]

It's called 'Registered rhymenecologist' 6c

[Bonjoy]

That looks great! Always wondered if there was anything there.

[Jim]

the face says 'no spotter'.

Face says 'pulling too hard for a 6c - its not font you know'

[Scouse D]

it feels pretty high up there. i'll wait till more repeats before finalising on 6c.We thought that when clean it wouldn't feel as hard. The little bit of scrittle was focussing the mind.Then again it might be harder.

[Paul B]

the face says 'no spotter'.

T-shirt swap?

[dave]

scouse never dresses photogenically - luckily someone practices what they preach.

[dave]

did that undercutting tonight. this is actually worthwhile and not as shit as "climb the wall 6 inches left of the arete" sounds at first. from having a read back of this thread I think we used a different sequence to travers (started facing left from low, climbed into the undercuts from below and finshed sans niche on left) but grade seemed about right anyway at 7a+. its all gravy. just a shame the rock here isn't 100% sound. decent problem if you're in the area.

[Andy B]

Did a couple more nice new problems at Baslow the weekend before last:

Straight down the slope between The Ripper and the Walnut boulder is a large block called the Matterhorn Boulder. It's down hill side is undercut.

Smutt Ridge 7a?

Start on the detached, hemmed in slab beneath the roof, make a big span out from undercuts to a shothole on the lip, and traverse the lip rightwards to the arete. Pull up this to rock onto, and finish up the slab.

Bone At It Direct 7a+?

Follow Smutt Ridge to the lip, then pull directly over on to the slab, and wander up this to finish.

They were repeated by dave and Scouse D. The grades are a rough guess as it was pretty warm.

[Scouse D]

These are very good problems worth seeking out. Grading might be a bit harsh but I suppose that's better than being soft touch. I thought the traverse one 'Smutt Ridge' was 7a+.

[dave]

i thought the traverse one is harder than the direct. hard to tell really as it was boiling when we did em.

[al]

Did a couple more nice new problems at Baslow the weekend before last

good effort, anyone traverse the lip L to R? (had pruned the holly, and made a landing but never completed the link)

[al]

good effort, anyone traverse the lip L to R?

read the post first al, before you reply