[Scouse D]

Without the silly jug rule it's a very nice problem. 'wall R of crack on undercuts and crimps' 7b

[Kingy]

Yeah props to R-man for doing this problem it looks great. I am looking forward to a session at Baslow trying all these beauties!

[r-man]

Without the silly jug rule it's a very nice problem. 'wall R of crack on undercuts and crimps' 7b

You don't need to convince me. But it's interestng that several people have had different opinions on the obvious line. Neil thought the obvious line was without arete and jug. Hearing he'd done a problem here, the first time I went I did what I thought was the obvious line, which was using everything right of the crack (including the arete) - this is 7a+ish. Bonjoy reckons using the arete is eliminate. I thought not using it was eliminate. Such is life.

I think there are two obvious challenges: with arete and without. Having done Neil's eliminate, it's a shame that this probably won't get done again, as it's a great move, but there you go, it doesn't sit well within the rules for grit climbing.

I agree. Indulge me and perhaps I can have one tiny rule here. Where the eliminate nature of the problem is such that an obvious adjacent feature overshadows the whole problem, that feature is eliminated and a classic problem results then that is cool. For example Play Hard falls into this category as does the 'Blobsloper' eliminate at Curbar. However, where the eliminate involves missing out specific holds than that gets the  .

Kingy - I agree that's the way things have been going for some time, but you're forgetting things like Bling Fig and Jerry's Trav at Stanage, which flout your rule most flagrantly.

The Ripper isn't my problem, by the way, it's the work of Neil Travers.

[Kingy]

Kingy - I agree that's the way things have been going for some time, but you're forgetting things like Bling Fig and Jerry's Trav at Stanage, with flout your rule most flagrantly.

The Ripper isn't my problem, by the way, it's the work of Neil Travers.

Oh right I thought it was yours for some reason! I give up with this eliminate thing, its seems too complicated for words. I guess as long as you're enjoying yourself that's the main thing!

[Kingy]

Having done Neil's eliminate, it's a shame that this probably won't get done again, as it's a great move,

It like the way Wolfwang Gullich first did Action Direct and the way Ben Moon was trying it was harder and more direct than the way subsequent repeats have done it but now easier sequences have been found. There is nothing to stop anybody going back and doing it the original way but it will probably never be done.

I may go and try the Ripper eliminate myself, no reason why not.

[travs]

Well you have finally compelled me to pass coment! To suggest that grit is the rock of no eliminates is bollocks just look at these :

Anything on the Business as usual face.
Dope on a slope / Green traverse
Anything on remergence butress
Pooh and 7c to right
Play hard etc and anything else on this block

Back to the problem though. I found that when I had built my feet up high enough to go for the top I was directly below the highest point and so went for this. I must say though that conditions weren't the best and I could hardly stand on the smears, this meant it was virtually impossible to reach out left to the lower jug so had to jump for the top.

[Bonjoy]

 This isn't a perfect world and it's often the case that good problems have encroaching features which if used significantly reduce the appeal of the climbing. I think all but the most puritanical would agree that some level of contrivance/rule making on grit is a good thing and allows more good climbing to be squeezed out of a finite resource. I think most people would also go along with the idea that contrivance/rule making, whilst necessary, should be used sparingly and only where the result is clearly positive. I'd agree that not using the arete fits in with this, but specifying which bit of the top is 'in' seem like uneeded complexity, detracting rather than adding to the quality.

[Scouse D]

certainly not dissing your problem travs, it's brill and a good enough problem without the rules. Good find!

[travs]

Not arguing with any of that, I think this has all come about because Robin asked me which bit of the top I went for when I did the problem and so I told him the high bit because this is what I did. I didn't really intend this to be interpreted as only go for this bit of the top. As I suggested before, the main reason for going for the high point was that I couldn't get out left with my feet high and static on the smears, guess I should have launched from a bit lower! I always thought the problem would settle at somewhere between 7b and 7c but locking static for the top felt desperate!

[r-man]

Cheeky!  I only asked you because you specifically said:

C.   The Ripper, 7c : Climb the wall to the right to it’s highest point without using the arête at all! 7a+ if you use foot holds on the arête and go left at the top.

Anyway, like Scouse said, it's a great problem without the need to be super-eliminate. Nice find! 

[Scouse D]

New problem done tonight and another classic to add to the Baslow circuit. Highball 6c wall following an obvious groove feature in one of the old quarries in the woods. Name to follow.Instant repeats from Dave and Cofe.
Best approach from Gardoms parking. Walk along obvious wide track from the road. A dry stone wall runs alongside on your right. About 100yds before the wall stops turn left into the woods and take care not to walk over the edge(just after a big pile of manure and a pile of broken rocks). Groove feature is obvious. 6c seemed fair although it is high enough to be spicy.
The arete left of it is V1 as is the arete left of that.

[Andy B]

Mother fuckers.

[dave]

this really is a classic feature, the only downside at the moment is it ain't totally clean. clean enough, but don't eat your dinner off it. would need either traffic or an ab rope to get it squeaky, but its still excellent right now.

On the directions front, if you find the quarry full of old chickewire fencing and rubbish, its the one after (west of) that.

[cofe]

the wall:



the face really does say, a lot:

[Scouse D]

the face says 'no spotter'.

[Fiend]

Looks good - and pure. What's the top out like?

[dave]

topout is fine - top break is a jug/positive pretty much all the way along, but the capping stone is a bit mucky and covered in bracken at present so once your hands over the top you can step to the top of the arete, its the obvious thing to do. would be fine to et the blinkers out and top out more directly if it ever gets excavated properly.

the arete left of it, and the left arete of the next wall left are good warmups.

[Scouse D]

It's called 'Registered rhymenecologist' 6c

[Bonjoy]

That looks great! Always wondered if there was anything there.

[Jim]

the face says 'no spotter'.

Face says 'pulling too hard for a 6c - its not font you know'

[Scouse D]

it feels pretty high up there. i'll wait till more repeats before finalising on 6c.We thought that when clean it wouldn't feel as hard. The little bit of scrittle was focussing the mind.Then again it might be harder.

[Paul B]

the face says 'no spotter'.

T-shirt swap?

[dave]

scouse never dresses photogenically - luckily someone practices what they preach.

[dave]

did that undercutting tonight. this is actually worthwhile and not as shit as "climb the wall 6 inches left of the arete" sounds at first. from having a read back of this thread I think we used a different sequence to travers (started facing left from low, climbed into the undercuts from below and finshed sans niche on left) but grade seemed about right anyway at 7a+. its all gravy. just a shame the rock here isn't 100% sound. decent problem if you're in the area.

[Andy B]

Did a couple more nice new problems at Baslow the weekend before last:

Straight down the slope between The Ripper and the Walnut boulder is a large block called the Matterhorn Boulder. It's down hill side is undercut.

Smutt Ridge 7a?

Start on the detached, hemmed in slab beneath the roof, make a big span out from undercuts to a shothole on the lip, and traverse the lip rightwards to the arete. Pull up this to rock onto, and finish up the slab.

Bone At It Direct 7a+?

Follow Smutt Ridge to the lip, then pull directly over on to the slab, and wander up this to finish.

They were repeated by dave and Scouse D. The grades are a rough guess as it was pretty warm.