also, has anyone got any beta on the Pinch problem -
You should try the stand start to Dan Varians new sitter. Spicy 1 move 7c with the normal top out.enjoy
by putting your middle two on the best bit and your index slightly separated on another (not quite as) good bit just beneath.
for Tsunamish (with pocket) what is the usual foot sequence and do you go RH pocket LH sloper RH sidepull or is moving further along the rail so you're in the position I started the kneeling start from allowed / advisable? Thanks in advance for any help.
Good effort! I did BSD from the rail this year and i only climb 7b or swiss 7c so I'd guess its probably 7b! I haven't got a clue, I never linked it from the right due to various finger tweaks and hotness but it certainly felt harder! how can it not be, those extra couple of moves have got some painful little holds involved (ie the one referred to as a dogs mouth!)anyway good effort. now for the left! (I think its a really good problem)
Doylo - I thought of your sermon on crushing before my successful attempt. I'd had three goes, all of which at least equalled my high point on the problem and I felt really strong. It was one of those times like you said when you don't know when you're next going to feel that good so fuck worrying about the conditions and crush!
The moves in from the right I found didn't add much at all....If anything your power is up by the time you hit the crouching start so it actually helps you in a strange way, rather than hitting the move cold.