Hats for Clowns - it's a French start. One hand on the undercut, jump off the ground for the crimp. Gets 7a+ in the list. Standing start is much harder.
Quote from: r-man on January 19, 2009, 02:41:23 pmHats for Clowns - it's a French start. One hand on the undercut, jump off the ground for the crimp. Gets 7a+ in the list. Standing start is much harder.7a+!
On the traverse, i never tried it before, but it was never regarded as a soft 7b+ as far as I know pre-breakage, and the broken hold at the crux turned from a big inch-wide faux-jug into a halfinch rounded crimp, not to mention the good positive hold at the end of the traverse also used to be a finger jug, you could use that instead of openhanding that sloper). The main crux hold you have to use whatever the sequence really, i'd be amazed if it didn't effect the difficulty (lose a jug, gain a rounded crimp), although i've only been on it post-breakage.
sorry, were heels not invented prior to the hold breaking?
the real problem starts sitting on the crimp
Quote from: dave on January 19, 2009, 03:48:46 pmsorry, were heels not invented prior to the hold breaking?no but I thought the fanny ish sequence that has now been perfected makes the climbing a whole lot easier.
Hang on, people are now telling me theres a lanky beta i could be using at the end of a classic ~17 move right-left 7bish traverse, that isn't the original sequence. I hope everyone appreciates the irony of this.
now that is confusing?I showed my sequence to a mate last week sometime and Jon decided to prove the virtues of his new imrpoved sequence by pulling on, placing both heels and waving his hand around before taking the pinch sidepull pebble hold.
Hang on, people are now telling me theres a lanky beta i could be using at the end of a classic ~17 move right-left 7cish traverse, that isn't the original sequence. I hope everyone appreciates the irony of this.
The standup to HFC is a bit of a non problem, non? the real problem starts sitting on the crimp with the obvious broken bit? I was speaking to Ned about this and they'd been trying it the rockover crimpy way (you'll see the holds if you go), by using a heel toe lock in the jugs out left to reach from the broken edge to the nasty little holds, releasing it and rocking over to glory/failure.
Paul - This is 2009, you are allowed to use all parts of your body to climb with these days, including your brain. Calling heelhooks 'fannyish', 'gay', 'faggotry' or other terms for homosexuality, went out with bad lycra, high pitched southern acsents and flat-tops.
Has Nic got both of them or just the boots?
The standup to HFC is a bit of a non problem, non? the real problem starts sitting on the crimp with the obvious broken bit?