Intro to Welsh Bouldering (Read 9760 times)

Mike_H · August 21, 2003, 02:54:37 pm

Ok I know quite a few of you heads are knowledgable on the welsh bouldering ting and would appreciate a bit of beta.

Basically I'm looking to head down for a day trip and then drive back up to Southport for some Kite Surfing action on the Sunday night / Monday depending on what the wind is doing.

Looking for bouldering up to about V6 if the wind is blowing in the right direction, must be reasonably accessible etc and wouldn't mind linking a couple of venues together if possible.

-Any topos would be good as well

Word

dave · August 21, 2003, 03:07:42 pm

you cold do worse than porth ysgo, although its a fair trek and if you are on your own (?) you could die.

Better bet would be wavelength area or somewhere like that its quite near other stuff.

Mike_H · August 21, 2003, 03:14:59 pm

I had thought about going to Porth Ysgo, but I'd already knocked that one on the head.

I'm really looking for a quick raid style venue, and given the landings at Porth Ysgo it probably isn't ideally suited.

dave · August 21, 2003, 03:24:26 pm

i rate somewhere like wavelength, cromlech (shite but easy access), or maybe summert in ogwen. i've never been to angel bay but thats suppoesd to be bo when the conditions are right.

dontfollowme · August 21, 2003, 05:35:20 pm

Ogwen would be good because you could do milestone buttress boulder field, galt yr ogof and then RAC. If you weren't tired by then you could loop round to cromlech/wavelength area. Ogwen valley gets the sun too.

jimbo · August 21, 2003, 05:46:00 pm

Cromlech boulders are definitely not 'shite'.

dontfollowme · August 21, 2003, 06:03:00 pm

They are ok. But if I was on a quick day trip I wouldn't make a point of visiting them.

Scouse D · August 22, 2003, 09:54:38 am

I have to say, Cromlech boulders are brilliant, with many a classic problem upon them.

dave · August 22, 2003, 10:00:47 am

wellyou know what i mean, not shite shite, just shite. Basically popularity is more down to position and easy access and the fact its where you park for the main pass crags, rather than quality of rock etc. I think if the sheep pen boulders and the cromlech swapped position it'd be a different story.

dobbin · August 22, 2003, 10:05:16 am

I was gonna say Parisellas, but then I re-read your post and it said V6 - with the exception of Beaver Cleaver there are no V6's right?

Has anyone a topo?

dave · August 22, 2003, 10:07:43 am

isn't lipstick like V5?

topo:

http://cragx.com/articles/issue11/parisellas/parisella.htm

Scouse D · August 22, 2003, 11:14:57 am

I think Lipstick is fair at V6, and I'd say Beaver Cleaver was no less than V7.

dave · August 22, 2003, 11:20:38 am

i think i find lipstick a bit easier than most cos i've got a big pinch-span on my hand compared to some, it seems.

for example can touch both Ctrl keys on a standard keyboard at once (thumb to middle finger) which is pretty usefull at times.

Adam Lincoln · August 22, 2003, 11:23:35 am

Quote from: "dave"

i think i find lipstick a bit easier than most cos i've got a big pinch-span on my hand compared to some, it seems.

for example can touch both Ctrl keys on a standard keyboard at once (thumb to middle finger) which is pretty usefull at times.

Just had some funny looks going round the office trying to find a non ergo keyboard to measure my span on.

Shit - You do have a big span... :shock:

dave · August 22, 2003, 11:27:51 am

of course when i say touch i mean i can contact them (corners) without depressing the surrounding keys, but its far from actually having like pads flat on the top of the keys, that wold be proper big.

I think its from playing t'piano as a youth.

You know what they say, big span, big........gloves?

Scouse D · August 22, 2003, 11:42:32 am

My thumb only just gets past the space bar!

Adam Lincoln · August 22, 2003, 11:43:44 am

Quote from: "Scouse D"

My thumb only just gets past the space bar!

Mine doesnt even clear the space bar! Very small hands, but great for crimping like a Mo Fo

dave · August 22, 2003, 11:44:52 am

you're a "Alt Gr" guy then.

dave · August 22, 2003, 11:49:16 am

Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"

Mine doesnt even clear the space bar! Very small hands, but great for crimping like a Mo Fo

remind me of tha blackadder sketch...."You have a woman's hand my lord!"

Pantontino · August 22, 2003, 12:36:06 pm

I made it to the windows button with both hands. My right hand has at least a whole buttons worth of extra span!

Pantontino · August 22, 2003, 12:47:03 pm

Getting back to the original thread, Wavelength is easy to suss: Park in the small layby opposite Jerry's Roof, cross the river and stroll past the obvious slopey traverse (Fear of a Slopey Planet V6) and through the grounds of Ynys Ettws (Boysens Roof V3-4). From the back of the building (CC hut) bear rightwards for 300 metres, crossing a small stream to behold Utopia, a large block with many superb problems. From here work up the hill past an obvious roof (Pieshop) to reach the Wavelength block. This is killer, as is the Grooves Boulder a mere skip across the hillside to the left. Further up and across towards Dinas Mot there is more...

Scouse D · August 22, 2003, 12:59:45 pm

You forgot to mention the neo-classic Boysen's Roof sit start at an amenable V7 :wink:

Dave Flanagan · August 22, 2003, 01:08:44 pm

Simon, we are planning a trip to NW for the weekend of the 13/14th September dare I ask, will the guide be out?

Dave

tc · August 22, 2003, 01:09:41 pm

Get some work done, Panton!
tc

Jim · August 22, 2003, 01:17:56 pm

Wavelength boulders are well worth the trip, walk in looks proper distance from the car but is not too bad actually.
Does any one know what the problem is on the left of utopia block going from crimps in the break to a J shaped crimpy sidepull ting up and left and then again for the higher break. Couldn't get the sidepull quite right..... good prob tho reckon must be in mid V grades

Dave Flanagan · August 22, 2003, 01:26:10 pm

Quote from: "Jim"

Does any one know what the problem is on the left of utopia block going from crimps in the break to a J shaped crimpy sidepull ting up and left and then again for the higher break. Couldn't get the sidepull quite right..... good prob tho reckon must be in mid V grades

Is it just right of the left arete.
Is it this?

If so I think it is v5/font 6c in the old northen soul.

Jim · August 22, 2003, 01:46:06 pm

Thats the one

james · August 22, 2003, 09:55:12 pm

going from left to right I can reach the windows button with my right and almost to the start menu button with my left (I can dislicate my left thum which gives me a bit more span). Daves is HUUUUAAAGGGGEEEEEEEEEE!!! Can anyone beat him. The chalange is on.
Cheers

James

Pantontino · August 22, 2003, 10:03:20 pm

Dave, I doubt the guide will be out by then. I am beset with various techy issues that I had not anticipated - a steep learning curve 'n' all that.

Anyway, on a more positive note, if you have any specific queries I will do my best to answer them.

Cheers, Simon.

dobbin · August 23, 2003, 01:09:58 pm

I'm just tickling the windows key. I will pledge a pound reward to the man who can do control to control on one of those ergo jobs - supported by photographic evidence...

Jim · August 24, 2003, 10:14:08 pm

whats that key for next to the windows key? looks like a filling cabinet with a mouse pointer over it - can just touch that one

Dave Flanagan · August 25, 2003, 09:30:24 am

Quote from: "Pantontino"

Anyway, on a more positive note, if you have any specific queries I will do my best to answer them.
.

Thanks, I will let you know.

dave · August 25, 2003, 09:31:02 am

think it generally brings up whatever menu you get by rightclicking.

Mike_H · August 26, 2003, 09:23:21 am

I'm more a windows key man myself.

Anyway checked out the Cromlech boulders on Sunday for an hour on my way to meet my mates, that V4 lip traverse was pretty smart indeed.

Then Monday drove back and checked out Utopia, Wavelength, Pie Shop and a couple of other boulders.

Got to say I was well impressed, that V5 on Utopia is a right stretch couldn't stick the sloper. But managed to do a V4 on the Utopia going through those pockets which was nice.

I'm looking forward to the bouldering guide now, and will probably check the area out in more detail.

Jim · August 26, 2003, 08:05:26 pm

Quote from: "Mike_H"

Got to say I was well impressed, that V5 on Utopia is a right stretch couldn't stick the sloper.

Did you use that tiny intermediate, thats one small crimp.

Mike_H · August 26, 2003, 08:42:20 pm

No I was firing up from the good crimp, so it came down to timing more than anything.

That crimp was way small.

Jim · August 26, 2003, 09:25:57 pm

Any other small crimps out there? Which is the smallest crimp in the world?

Bubba · August 26, 2003, 09:29:36 pm

That one on that climbXmedia "Four From Font" vid is pretty dang tiny. Fingernails only..... :shock:

dave · August 26, 2003, 09:46:24 pm

the worlds smallest crimp is probably at font.

Can't be on grit cos the macro structure of most gritstone (will the possible exception of slipstones and very far skyline) is larger than the kind of grattons in font.

dontfollowme · August 26, 2003, 10:58:54 pm

Quote from: "Bubba"

That one on that climbXmedia "Four From Font" vid is pretty dang tiny. Fingernails only..... :shock:

Are you sharing this on any p2p software at all....?

Bubba · August 26, 2003, 11:09:48 pm

We've got it on our waste network (only 3 of us set up so far) - can give you the necessary access if you like?

mark · August 27, 2003, 08:37:55 am

Can I have access too, please?

Bubba · August 27, 2003, 09:11:14 am

Have added you to the necessary group - you should see the forum now. I'm going to write a quick FAQ for how to get set up.

dontfollowme · August 27, 2003, 11:25:01 am

That would be great. I have the exe file already so I Just need the details.

Bubba · August 27, 2003, 11:27:58 am

'Tis done, refresh your main page and you'll see the goods.

Not sure if my box will be running, but Dobbin is usually up.

Jim · September 08, 2003, 01:50:08 pm

Quote from: "Bubba"

That one on that climbXmedia "Four From Font" vid is pretty dang tiny. Fingernails only..... :shock:

just watched this t'other day.
was small that one but he had at least 3 fingers on it - bet there are smaller mono fingernail crimps out there :shock:

dave · September 08, 2003, 01:52:37 pm

what about the tiny fingernail undercut on monoblock at pex. I saw it the other week but i didn't have a TEM to hand to inspect it.

Dave Flanagan · September 09, 2003, 02:11:48 pm

Would any North Wales heads like to hazard a guess as to what the weather is going to be like at the weekend. Are we likely to get something done of we come over on Saturday? thanks

Pantontino · September 09, 2003, 02:28:45 pm

The forecast is mixed, but - as I'm sure you know already - it is always possible to find dry rock: If not down the Lleyn, then Parisella's, Split Infinity, Hylldrem...

Dave Flanagan · September 09, 2003, 03:10:46 pm

Quote from: "Pantontino"

The forecast is mixed, but - as I'm sure you know already - it is always possible to find dry rock: If not down the Lleyn, then Parisella's, Split Infinity, Hylldrem...

I was afraid you might say that, it just that it a ways (not to mention 70euro on the ferry) to go for that. Thanks.

Rhys · September 09, 2003, 08:30:23 pm

I've been able to get out in the Pass this week- it just means waiting for the rain to stop which it usually does, at the moment it takes about 2hrs to dry from being absolutely sopping and thats with cloudy skies. I've just come from Parisillas which was mint.

I'm getting quite excited as the clold winds have started blowing and the air is looking crisper- conditions are on the way...