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New route: Millstone (Read 1522 times)

Tommy

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New route: Millstone
March 10, 2008, 10:46:03 am
For any of those chuffing enthusiasts out there...........

Name: Shape Shifter
Grade: E5 6a (although my second said this might be a major sandbag and E6 6b more appropriate)
Area: North Bay
FA: Tom Randall

This route takes the big, blunt and steep arete just to the right of Saville St that Chris Wright pegged up during foot-and-mouth but never lead it. Start up the initial crack of Saville until the big, ledge. A long move to gain the ramp at the bottom of the arete allows to rusty pegs to be clipped. More long moves up the arete gain good sloping holds to the right and eventually a sloping crimp right on the nose of the arete. The crux is how to use this! A fall from the crux woulod certainly land you on your back on the ledge below, so definitely don't cock it up. Easier, but bold climbing above up the arete. Pumpy and surpirisingly imposing climbing.

Enjoy!

 

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