[dads]

2nd time bouldering ever, came off sheep flies, lower boulders, Kentmere. My mat wasn't over close to the wall and fell over it backwards like a right tit and have come out with a mallet finger (on my right ring finger). I don't want it to put me off, anyone got any suggestions for injury prevention. I warmed up, stretched etc, however it was such a cold day my hands were never warm.Do you think this was a big problem.

I've got a shit six weeks off with no exercise, that's what the quacks say... I'll go do lally, I'm sure I'll get some training of some sort in. Probably core and lower body only.

I have only done a few problems (how newbie), a couple at brant fell and a couple on the pine boulder. They felt nice and were not harsh on the hands. My upper body strength is sound, it's my girl like fingers that worry me. I don't want to ruin my chances before I get started. I've hanged off my attic probably 3cm lots but I don't think that has done me any good to be honest. Just sore knuckles. Anybody have any really beginners tips.....

[erm, sam]

The best "really beginers" tip is don't get carried away training. You will improve so much just climbing that specific training just runs the risk of injuring yourself, as you have allready pointed out with your sore knuckles. I don't know what training would be able to reduce the occurance of things like mallet finger anyway. I am sure the six weeks will fly by. Or just pray for 6 solid weeks of rain so you don't get so frustrated....

[dads]

Cheers for the advice Sam. Think I'll lay off the finger training and see how they are when I start back up.

[The Sausage]

is it definitely mallet finger? who diagnosed it? what have they done about it? if it's genuinely mallet finger then you can't actively extend (straighten) the end joint of the affected finger, but you can do it passively (ie,  can use the other hand to straighten it). It's caused by rupturing the extensor tendon that attaches to the end bit of the finger, and you'll need to wear a finger splint for 6 weeks so that the tendon can repair itself. you can do any training that doesn't use that finger.

[jfw]

i had a mallet fracture - detached straightening tendon - from a horrible bike mending accident! could curl my finger down, but not straighten out end joint.

injury included a mangled cut on back of my finger. so festering cut and dressing had to fit in plastic splint thing, which was downsized as cut healed. yes 6 weeks is what it took for tendon to re-attach - since it was middle finger of right hand - apart from looking ridiculous, i didn't do much training in that time

[dads]

Thanks guys.

Sausage: I originally diagnosed the finger myself, the wonders of the internet. The info I found said to seek medical attention immediately, so I popped up to the hospital and it was the right thing to do. They confirmed it, I had an x-ray then they put a mallet splint on. I've managed to get a bit of excercise in so it's not to bad.

jfw: All my mates are calling me beadle or humming the theme tune and generally taking the piss. It stands out a mile.