[Bonjoy]

 Anyone know the sketch with this? Ru's book gives it 7a+ but the BMC book gives V9 and says "a bit of an unconfirmed entity". This is also confused by them both describing a very similar prob just to it's left at 6c and V7 respectively.

[dave]

done this umpteen times now, its steady 7a+ish, but impossible in bad nick. you go up to a Rh sloper, geta left kneebar, left hand up to a poor crozzley sloper with thumb catch, then RH on a break far out right, release the kneebar and slap (or static if you're cofe) into the jug sidepull. i'll dig out a photo of scouse on this later to clarify.

[galpinos]

left hand up to a poor crozzley sloper with thumb catch,

If the Thumb catch was a pebble it wasn't there on Saturday. There's an obvious hole. Makes it harder (but I'd been going left up first).

[dave]

no the thumb catch is that hole.

[cofe]

then RH on a break far out right

dave means RF out right.

(or static if you're cofe)

i am a monster.

[galpinos]

no the thumb catch is that hole.

Didn't there used to be a big pebble? 

Damn, it's gutting when your excuses are blown out of the water like that! 

[nic mullin]

I do it getting a slopey undercut dish under the roof with my right then getting a right kneebar (painful) with right foot on a big sloping boss thing and right knee under the roof to hold the slopey edges. Move left foot up onto a cluster of pebbles and get a double knee bar under the starting roof, then jump to the sidepull (hands not pulling much and everything comes off apart from right foot) - really weird and hard to coordinate but a good move when you do it.

I have seen people bear down on the slopey edges and go to the sidepull with varying degrees of static-ness, but looks very hard and skin intensive.

Hope that's of some use...

[Dolly]

I've done it the way Dave describes, but was confused by the BMC guide as the sequence that Dave describes is apparently another problem, with Nige's problem even further right ? 

[r-man]

done this umpteen times now, its steady 7a+ish, but impossible in bad nick. you go up to a Rh sloper, geta left kneebar, left hand up to a poor crozzley sloper with thumb catch, then RH on a break far out right, release the kneebar and slap (or static if you're cofe) into the jug sidepull. i'll dig out a photo of scouse on this later to clarify.

Right hand on a break out right? You mean right heel? Thought this went off the two slopers to the jug sidepull?

But yeah, this is the V7. The V9 in the BMC guidebook is more up the arete, isnt it? (could be wrong, going off a glance in someone else's book once) Maybe n_man will pop up with the knowledge - I was under the impression Nigel's problem was his.

[dave]

like john says i meant right foot (a bit further right than where scouse's foot is in this photo is optimum).

[Bonjoy]

Acording to the BMC book Scouse is on Secret Uphill Gardener V7, with Nigel's problem being further right. My hunch would be that this is in fact Nigel's prob and that the guide is describing two probs where only one exists, but that's pure guessery.

[dave]

you could probably get a problem further right but its not the obvious line. then again secret garden is shoehorn city, so i suppose you could get about 6 problems between that one and left hand man!

[r-man]

like john says i meant right foot (a bit further right than where scouse's foot is in this photo is optimum).

I discovered recently you can get a heel-toe out right that makes the move to the jug sidepull quite easy. Shame, as the slap is quite cool.  Shorties will probably still have to slap though.

[Dolly]

Acording to the BMC book Scouse is on Secret Uphill Gardener V7, with Nigel's problem being further right. My hunch would be that this is in fact Nigel's prob and that the guide is describing two probs where only one exists, but that's pure guessery.

Thats what I was trying to say, but didn't explain it quite as well.
Anyway that picture is the problem I always thought was Nige's problem

[Kingy]

"I discovered recently you can get a heel-toe out right that makes the move to the jug sidepull quite easy".

This seems to be the case with a lot of problems here! A bit of faggotry makes certain moves much easier. E.g on Left Hand Man I got a kneebar for the left leg making the reach out to the left arete steady away rather than a massive slap. Nice problem but shame about the big ledge for the feet and maybe a shade easy for 7b+ I thought??

BTW how do you get quotes in nice blue boxes cos I can't figure it out??

[r-man]

Think it's one of those places where you earn the grade for deciphering the code. Plus, one man's kneebar is another man's no, my leg's the wrong size...

Quote boxes: Select the text, then click the "insert quote" button. Looks like a speech bubble.

[GCW]

Or type [ quote] before the text, then [ /quote] after it  (without the spaces, obviously)

[Kingy]

Nice one dudes, I shall have a go in a bit. I still think WSS or Blind Date are much tougher propositions that LHM or Dick Williams for that matter. I preferred Zaff's miself, much more honest sloper grabbing.

[Bonjoy]

 So has anyone climbed this mythical BMC Nigel's Problem? Where's that Grimer fellow, didn't he write this bit? (I need to know whether to put one or two problems in my eastern grit  sevens and eights list you see)

[grimer]

Ah, reading this, it strikes me that maybe I made a mistake. Perhaps I was confused over the exact holds used, or by the old CragX topo, or, as I can't climb at this level, by asking others and getting confused.

Sometimes I feel like Sue Ellen Ewing

[Bonjoy]

 It's a common feeling.
 That's it then, I'll put Nigel's Prob in at 7a+ and leave Secret Uphill Gardener in the closet

[n_man]

Two Nige's as far as I can think.

Didn't Nige Prestige do the problem shown in the photo's a while ago? I agree 7a+ but considerably harder in bad nick.

I did a problem on the same basic line, but just to the right, of the photo of Patch Hammond on Dick Williams as shown in Ru's guide p121.
I met Jason Myers out there, with snow on the ground and he was trying it as a new line. Bloody cold and I got lucky.  Start both hands on the big ledge, then slap with the left to a shallow dish (2/3 fingers) and then rock over up over to the right for a pocket on the more vertical bit. Jason did it next go and made it look a touch easier than myself. 

Still I was happy!

[Bonjoy]

I'm confused, your sentence makes no sense.
Is your line between the prob Scouse is on on the photo in this thread and Left Hand Man or "just to the right, of the photo of Patch Hammond on Dick Williams as shown in Ru's guide p121", which would be nothing like "on the same basic line"??? Name/grade?

[r-man]

Made sense to me - it's on the same basic line, but just to the right, of Dick Williams. But yeah, name and grade please n_man...

The 7a+ that everyone does is only 6b/c with the heel/toe (which unless you are very short you can reach with your hands on the two key slopey crimps). Ie. the slap to the jug is an eliminate move.

[dave]

just to the right of the photo of patch on DW is fresh air.....