[Andy Harris]

Rowtor Rocks was very busy today with people trying to escape the wind. I managed what I think are 2 new problems and a couple of things/eliminates that are well worth putting into your circuit.

1st up and I'm over the moon with this  is the runnel on the wall left of Yoghurt Hypnotist. Make a few easy yards along the gutter, take a quarter digit 3 finger crimp with your RH and do an enormous rock over on your left heel to the sloper runnel at the top. A 3* classic weighing in at 7c or 7c+. This really is an amazing move and certainly one of the best things i've done on grit. Name to foolow.

Secondly managed a sit start to problem 17. Start sitting on the slopey shelf on the long sidepull, LH up to the obvious crimp, make a cool move to the obvious pinch, cutloose, right foot high and pop in to the standup. Very fingery. 7b+

And then a couple of things which are well worth doing:

A direct finish to short seans reachy roof missing out all the big holds. Start as for SSRR, match the 2 pockets, cutloose, left heel round the lip, big move directly up to poor sloper, hard match and mantle. 7b.

Between Quine & problem 17 is a cave with a big crack in it. Yard along the crack on jams until you can rech a runnel with your right hand, pull round the roof with fear (and a good spot) and grab a tussock of grass to top out. Sounds crappy but really quite good. 6c+ or so

enjoy!

[Duma]

foolow sounds like a good name

[Jim]

Nice one aurthur (not mini cowboyhat), any pics?

[account_inactive]

Nice! 7c/+ sounds cool

A direct finish to short seans reachy roof missing out all the big holds. Start as for SSRR, match the 2 pockets, cutloose, left heel round the lip, big move directly up to poor sloper, hard match and mantle. 7b.

Think this has been done before.  I've done it and I assumed someone else had

[Bonjoy]

Nice one Arris. Pics to come?

[r-man]

Nice one Andy, that thing left of yoghurt hypnotist looked and felt desperate!

Not convinced about 7b for the left finish to Sean's though. My lot all thought it felt much harder than Blood Falls and YH (ie. we got nowhere with it).

[Andy Harris]

seb got a few photos of the runnel but is away for 2 weeks. maybe i can get someone to come out next wend and take a few.

never uploaded anything to youtube so here goes

short seans direct top bit


sit start problem 17

[Andy Harris]

that obviously didn't work. i clicked the youtube icon and pasted the embedded bit in the middle.

any suggestions

might have to wait till tomorrow as i need my beauty sleep

[r-man]

Ignore the embed box that youtube gives. Copy the bit at the end of the address, everything after the =

So for this (random rowtor clip)



just paste the end, select, then use the youtube button up there /\

you then have NmrU33v0N4 surrounded by the youtube brackets

so:

[dave]

have edited arthur's above video post to make the links work.

[dave]

This really is an amazing move and certainly one of the best things i've done on grit. Name to foolow.

Why Foolow just out of interest? Why not Hassop or Wardlow?

[Tommy]

Between Quine & problem 17 is a cave with a big crack in it. Yard along the crack on jams until you can rech a runnel with your right hand, pull round the roof with fear (and a good spot) and grab a tussock of grass to top out. Sounds crappy but really quite good. 6c+ or so

enjoy!

Hi Andy,

Not that surprisingly for me, being an obsessive crack climber I'm afraid I've done said roof crack problem before. I reported it to Ru a while back as being something of interest to those few who like to venture down that "dark tunnel of crack love."

I agree that it's probably worth 6c+ or I might have said 6c, depending on conditions. Nice problem and even better top-out... I called it something obvious like "Jam and Blast-It" I think. I thought that tussock of grass was out??! Eliminate problems eh 

Tom

[Jacqusie]

...Damn - script re-write number 36,776 - good timing Andy - names please!!

...and you Thomas!!!   


Si

[Andy Harris]

After a  great deal of thought I’ve settled on a name for the new problem. A few years ago I lost someone I was very close to and had spent a lot of time with over the past 15 years. Said individual was cruelly hacked to but a shadow of their former self and all but the smallest trace of their existence remains. I therefore name this problem “The Brazilian” in honour of a large bush at Raven Tor that was one day ripe and plumptious and the next a withered stump. The perpetrator was never found but I have my suspicions....

Thanks to Siobhan who came up with this name a few years ago causing lots of laughs. It just needed some rock good enough to carry its name.

ps. I just spoke to Rich Heap who said I was probably a little excited when I said it was one of the best problems I’d done on grit. He did concede that it was probably the best problem with a very big move off a very small hold that wasn’t a dyno!

[Scouse D]

2nd video shows a definate dab at 12s. A piece of earth is clearly dislodged by the boot.Disgraceful.
 How can you sleep at night Andy?

[Andy Harris]

I think it was a vole making a quick exit from my boot

[Andy Harris]

How do I sleep at night?

Normally I count sheep but it was vallium & diazepam on Sunday night.

[Sloper]

I thought valium is the trade name for diazepam?  Anyone got a BNF?

[slackline]

I thought valium is the trade name for diazepam?  Anyone got a BNF?

Who needs the BNF when your on the internet (you can cross-reference at BNF if you want to check the accuracy of the information on Wikipedia, but I can't register for you).

[webbo]

I thought valium is the trade name for diazepam?  Anyone got a BNF?

it is the trade name.

[Bonjoy]

 Another one got done at rowtor on Sunday. Done first by Johnny Brown, then me. The Mantelist is somewhere around tough 7a. It climbs a great little beachball/boob feature between Short Sean's and Kim's Slap Problem. A pure mantel version not using the right arete needs doing too.

Here's Sir Arthur Conan Crabclaw Harris giving it his all.

[Jaspersharpe]

Weird shot. Makes it look like Harris is standing on the ground and examining a very small patch of lichen.

[Bonjoy]

 I think JB might have a shot from a saner angle

[Johnny Brown]

Makes it look like Harris is standing on the ground and examining a very small patch of lichen.

The truth is even stranger - he's actually smearing with his thigh. For the next move check JonBonJoyvi's crazy sequence:


Roy Moseley also made a quick repeat of To Foolow, Andy's hard gutter mantel by Yoghurt hypnotist. For those lacking the necessary steel fingers for the static option, it can almost certainly be done as a dyno - and a good one, cramped start. Just needs the hueco to dry out properly as I was hitting it well but not sticking.

[grimer]

It looked like you could also do one of those mad problems that young people do there too. Start up the bank on the left at a green flake, and run along the gutter to gain the big hueco thing