[Jaspersharpe]

L e    C o e u r   


Fucking desp', can't touch it, don't want to touch it, I've moved on - I'm over it . . .

*spit*

your not wrong. well and truly had my pants down

Can see why it would be tricky for the short but I found it steady for the grade - and brilliant. But then it could have been designed to suit me.

As discussed with lagers last night (after I'd had my hand over the good bit on the top and dropped it) - Play Hard (without the crack) looks like it should be about 6b. I mean what can be hard about a couple of pulls on slopers on a vertical wall / slab?

And then you pull on....... 

[Paul B]

Y-front ramp at Bowden and the central cave line which tends right at the lip,. I've always thought both of probles look straightforward but they always give me a shock.

is that the arete only one?

it's to the right of y-front and uses a thin seam only.

[Drew]

Surprise at Isatis. I really want to do it, as it looks so doable, but I just can't! Need to train more before the next trip out there!

[Will Hunt]

In the buildering category has anyone done that thing up the arete of the overpass that Johnny Dawes does in Stone Monkey? Looks piss but cant really be if it claimed Jerry's (think it was Jerry) ankle.

[Doylo]

In the buildering category has anyone done that thing up the arete of the overpass that Johnny Dawes does in Stone Monkey? Looks piss but cant really be if it claimed Jerry's (think it was Jerry) ankle.

i heard a rumour that Nodder went and did this once

[moose]

In the buildering category has anyone done that thing up the arete of the overpass that Johnny Dawes does in Stone Monkey? Looks piss but cant really be if it claimed Jerry's (think it was Jerry) ankle.

I vaguely recall it was the Moon who came acropper - it's mentioned in The Power of Climbing (whoever it was.... that much I do remember !). 

Agree re the Y-front ramp call: looks like a basic throw-heel-on-and-reach-up stylee problem but is a damn sight harder (much more so than the thinner looking but much easier line to the same finish using the thin crack).  To be honest, for me, almost anything at Bowden could be in this thread.  Long legs meant that I never managed to do the easy looking V3ish problem at the LHS of the cave (despite being able to path the supposedly harder RHS problem and do various V7s at Kyloe in etc). 

I also find a lot of the stuff at Carrock Fell and the Bowderstone a lot harder than it looks.  The holds are generally really big but then you pull on and find that they are utterly unpositive and all seem to slope the wrong way.

[dave]

In the buildering category has anyone done that thing up the arete of the overpass that Johnny Dawes does in Stone Monkey? Looks piss but cant really be if it claimed Jerry's (think it was Jerry) ankle.

I vaguely recall it was the Moon who came acropper - it's mentioned in The Power of Climbing (whoever it was.... that much I do remember !). 

I think dawes mentions this on the stone monkey DVD commentary - apparently his foot slipped off the sloping break.

[SA Chris]

Can Dumbarton as a whole be included? Even on the easier probs, things that look like good edges are in fact frictionless to start off with, then polished to a high sheen. God knows what the harder problems are like.

[Kingy]

It was Ben Moon who broke his wrist falling off this problem in the 80's, no ankles were involved.

[Rice Boy]

The Mancunian Way arete is good fun, I've not done it to the break but managed the first moves, very tricky. Manchester Uni climbing club listed this climbed by a strong lot back in the 2000 journal. The sloping breaks are baaad.

[Kingy]

As an interesting aside, apparently Dawes was doing a lot of concrete arete climbing here in the early 80's around the time he did Ulysses on-sight in 84. He said it felt easy in comparison to the concrete due to the vastly increased friction of the grit!!

[Paul B]

Long legs meant that I never managed to do the easy looking V3ish problem at the LHS of the cave (despite being able to path the supposedly harder RHS problem and do various V7s at Kyloe in etc). 

Thats madness, i'm guessing its a knee to head job when your stood on the big just/ledge is it?