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Monoblock repeat (Read 27289 times)

Will Hunt

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#50 Re: Monoblock repeat
June 12, 2009, 08:48:13 pm
Dat's well boss, lad. Wish I was home now.

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#51 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 17, 2022, 07:49:58 pm


I was wondering if anyone had any idea when Phil Davidson repeated Monoblock? And Andy Popp?

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#52 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 17, 2022, 07:55:26 pm
Did Phil repeat it?

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#53 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 17, 2022, 07:59:00 pm
Yes, Phil did it. I think I did it during foot and mouth, whenever that was.

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#54 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 17, 2022, 08:20:29 pm
Yes, Phil did it. I think I did it during foot and mouth, whenever that was.

Thanks Andy, I was hoping you'd reply  :)

Adam Lincoln

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#55 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 17, 2022, 09:22:04 pm
Pete Chadwick (latter on toprope) but its not massively significant.

That was while he was waiting for a knee op. He went back after op and topped out.

Ps. Did you ever go back and top it out Andy?

Adam Lincoln

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#56 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 17, 2022, 09:25:17 pm


I was wondering if anyone had any idea when Phil Davidson repeated Monoblock? And Andy Popp?

This is from Joe Healey.

From Joe. think it was 84 but not 💯 sure may have been 85.phil did it a week or so after but did the easier more direct start

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#57 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 17, 2022, 09:35:55 pm
Good knowledge, thanks Adam.

Seems like it was a pretty hard piece of climbing for the time...and now! Doesn't seem to get many repeats at all.

Adam Lincoln

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#58 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 17, 2022, 09:38:19 pm
Good knowledge, thanks Adam.

Seems like it was a pretty hard piece of climbing for the time...and now! Doesn't seem to get many repeats at all.

Probably a style too…. And if you are short you have no chance. Min 5’10?

Cant remember how tall Andy is.

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#59 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 17, 2022, 10:47:21 pm
Never mind

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#60 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 05:21:41 am
Pete Chadwick (latter on toprope) but its not massively significant.

That was while he was waiting for a knee op. He went back after op and topped out.

Ps. Did you ever go back and top it out Andy?

Yes, Pete obviously did it subsequently to my post.

I assume that what Adam is referring to here is that when I "did" it the actual top out was gopping and I used a rope (which I made no bones about with friends at the time). Not perfect but I was happy enough with what I did, which was without top roping or pads - I don't mind if it's removed from the record, such as it is.

I'm a bit over 5'10.

Adam Lincoln

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#61 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 08:27:40 am
Pete Chadwick (latter on toprope) but its not massively significant.

That was while he was waiting for a knee op. He went back after op and topped out.

Ps. Did you ever go back and top it out Andy?

Yes, Pete obviously did it subsequently to my post.

I assume that what Adam is referring to here is that when I "did" it the actual top out was gopping and I used a rope (which I made no bones about with friends at the time). Not perfect but I was happy enough with what I did, which was without top roping or pads - I don't mind if it's removed from the record, such as it is.

I'm a bit over 5'10.

It was a genuine question wasn’t a snipe.

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#62 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 08:39:53 am
Don't worry, I didn't think it was. It's a legitimate question whether I can really claim it.

And no, I never did.

Adam Lincoln

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#63 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 08:42:07 am
Don't worry, I didn't think it was. It's a legitimate question whether I can really claim it.

I am not sure of ethics at Pex but i guess its a similar thing to WSS at BW?

TBH doing it without mats is impressive enough.

Will Hunt

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#64 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 09:16:55 am
Good enough for Varian on The Young...

How much of the top was missed and how hard is the climbing there?

Ground-up without pads is impressive! How are your knees?!

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#65 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 09:33:20 am
How much of the top was missed and how hard is the climbing there?

Ground-up without pads is impressive! How are your knees?!

I climbed up into the last couple of moves but it absolutely minging. I don't how hard it is but obviously much easier than what's below. I definitely abbed it to clean it but honestly can't remember whether or not I tried any of the moves.

I think WSS is a bit different. I did it to the break many times but never did the top - I wouldn't ever claim it.

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#66 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 12:00:05 pm
Seems like it was a pretty hard piece of climbing for the time...and now! Doesn't seem to get many repeats at all.

It can be somewhat green for much of the year. I spent a decent amount of time at Pex last winter where conditions were often damp and unclimbable. Hoping for a mild crisp spell soon.

Will Hunt

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#67 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 12:04:36 pm
My perception, it could be wrong, is that a lot of the harder stuff in Cheshire doesn't get repeated very often because North Wales is so close. Once people get to a certain point in their climbing they're more likely to gravitate to the Cave and volcanic bouldering. Obviously there are exceptions to that but I think it goes some way to explain (in addition to tricky conditions, its highball nature, out-of-fashion style) the lack of repeats.

I've mentioned a day at Harmer's to friends who would very quickly knock off any 7C you'd care to point them at - as soon as they see the mere verticality of the place and the superficially small numbers their eyes glaze over.

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#68 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 12:14:13 pm
- as soon as they see the mere verticality of the place and the superficially small numbers their eyes glaze over.

Superficially small as in everything is undergraded? Are you attempting to balance out all your downgrading by upgrading a whole crag? 😂

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#69 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 12:22:14 pm
I've mentioned a day at Harmer's to friends who would very quickly knock off any 7C you'd care to point them at - as soon as they see the mere verticality of the place and the superficially small numbers their eyes glaze over.

That's sad. I think there is still room for some very hard direct lines at Pex.

There have been a few recent excellent harder additions to the local sandstone, perhaps coax your pals over to check them out Will via a detour to show them at Pex they're not as good as they think they are  ;)

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#70 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 12:32:14 pm
This thread is bringing back halcyon memories of mocking Crouchy for being a lanky bastard when he repeated it. He is, but it was still an impressive feat.

Will Hunt

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#71 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 12:34:08 pm
- as soon as they see the mere verticality of the place and the superficially small numbers their eyes glaze over.

Superficially small as in everything is undergraded? Are you attempting to balance out all your downgrading by upgrading a whole crag? 😂

No, not at all. To put it a different way, the techy, subtle nature of the climbing means you might not knock out as many of Grade X in a day as you might expect to on a more basic style of climbing.

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#72 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 01:10:07 pm
My perception, it could be wrong, is that a lot of the harder stuff in Cheshire doesn't get repeated very often because North Wales is so close. Once people get to a certain point in their climbing they're more likely to gravitate to the Cave and volcanic bouldering.

This concept is what makes some of Mike Adams first ascents even more impressive to me. Dodging motocross bikes and heroin needles to climb 8C in a quarry in Doncaster!

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#73 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 01:21:41 pm
Quote
This thread is bringing back halcyon memories of mocking Crouchy for being a lanky bastard when he repeated it. He is, but it was still an impressive feat.

Still happening  :2thumbsup:

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#74 Re: Monoblock repeat
January 18, 2022, 02:41:45 pm
Anybody know if Termination has ever been soloed? Down in the guide as 7a+ but heard stories it's never been done. Anybody know or done it ?

 

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