[Andy W]

anyone know if there any online topo's for the bouldering?

[slackline]

There is this one.

Not sure if there is anything at http://bouldr.net/.

[Andy W]

Still thinking of checking out the harder stuff down there, Chemical Romance for instance, but can't find any topo's or pics.....any ideas anyone?

[Dr T]

descriptions at http://dorset-climbing.com/disinfo.php

[Andy W]

descriptions at http://dorset-climbing.com/disinfo.php

cheers for that, but still leaves me unsure how to get to the cuttings and how to find the bouldering. I went there years ago but hazy memory, also i don't want to fork out for the new guide as i won't be doing any routes. Any info appreciated.

[Dr T]

drive all the way through Easton 'til you see the Mermaid pub on your left, park, walk down the track to the side of th pub, bear a little right onto a foot path that takes you to the coast, an you're pretty much at the new cuttings...

[Andy W]

drive all the way through Easton 'til you see the Mermaid pub on your left, park, walk down the track to the side of th pub, bear a little right onto a foot path that takes you to the coast, an you're pretty much at the new cuttings...

Thats great cheers, I do kind of remember those directions. Now  i want to find these problems 'The Black Parade (MCR sitter)' and 'My Chemical Romance' or are they in fact the same problem?

any more info or beta appreciated, u see the only info I have is the eliteukb inventory and a list of routes from Rockfax!

[BB]

The new Portland CC guide might have some more detailed information. I had a quick glance through it last weekend when i was at the cuttings and it seemed quite comprehensive.

[Dr T]

the arete on the right of this guy is MCR straight up... the sit start is just that...

[BB]

the arete on the right of this guy is MCR straight up... the sit start is just that...

If its the bit i'm thinking of then there have been some new low grade routes bolted just to the right of it. The resultant punter traffic (myself included) has meant it's proper muddy at the base of the crag.

[Dr T]

the arete on the right of this guy is MCR straight up... the sit start is just that...

If its the bit i'm thinking of then there have been some new low grade routes bolted just to the right of it. The resultant punter traffic (myself included) has meant it's proper muddy at the base of the crag.

new routes are 5 or six meters round past the next cove at least, the easiest route between the photo and the new routes is a unworthy 6c all the rest are mid 7s, not really punter terratory

[Andy W]

cheers for that, should be able to find these problems now.....one last question do you know the respective grades for the stand up and sitter? they seem to be the same on the list   http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/ both down as 8a.

[Dr T]

from dorset climbing

My Chemical Romance     V11     Dan Kennard     Climbs the left arete of 'Stomping with Bez'. Climb the arete starting up the direct start to Stomping, to the crimp rail. Thin moves and a dramatic slap gain the upper arete.

it's run by his dad so should be right... not sure about the sitter....

[BB]

new routes are 5 or six meters round past the next cove at least,

My mistake. Take some wellies just to be on the safe side 

[tubbs]

Sadly the only proper mistake in the new CC guide involves MCR 

The topo doesn't include the line for the route, but the text does describe it. It's a proper fuckup because that means problems 12 to 15 on page 303 don't quite match the topo. My bad