[Paz]

more fun less faff.

It looks fun in principle to me too, but at walls in general they can get so carried away providing fun problems that they cease to bear any resemblance to outdoor problems let alone being of any relevant training benefit, and take up loads of room.  I'm thinking in particular of those massive stupid volume features that you hit your chin on wehn you fall off, all they're good for is bonfire night I say.  For regular wall goers they're just novelty gimmick problems, I'm sure you'd get more value from a load of elegant well set face problems, or woody problems with interesting moves on.  I know this is subjective, but for the record none of the best, and especially none of the `fuck me that was good' problems and routes I did at UCR had any screw on big bananas on. 

I'm off to Panama to work on James Bond.

Please ask them to change the name Paul, I know they'll never bring Little Nelly back again but for the love of God they have to change the name!

[Paul T]

Just uploaded some photos to the blog over the last few days now that we're making some progress with the build.

http://climbingacademybristol.blogspot.com/

[Jaspersharpe]

Good effort. Looks awesome.

[r-man]

Wish the climbing works had a roof like that!

[dave]

there used to be a roof like that in the edge woody (about 30ft square). it was the shittest bit of the whole setup, and saw little use compared to the other surfaces. seemed cool at first, but was total shit.

[r-man]

30ft square isn't very big. 6 by 5. This one looks much bigger.

[dave]

are you on prescription speedballs? a 30ft square roof is massive. offhand I don't recall the exact dimensions of the edge woody roof but the photo on the above link doesn't look a million miles away from that sort of ballpark size. and the size is irrelevent anyway. the edge woody roof wasn't shit because it was too small.

[Percy B]

The one I built in The Edge woody was 16 feet wide by 32 feet long. Or 512 square feet of climbing surface. It was pretty big, but was a good way of covering space that couldn't be used for better angled boards (ie: the ceiling of the room). It was a stam-lord magnet, and thats for sure...

[r-man]

Massive is a subjective concept, but 30 square feet = 5 feet wide and 6 feet long. Sounds like Tom's roof to me.

Ah, I see Percy has already set the record straight.

[slackline]

Mr Robert will love it...

[dave]

Massive is a subjective concept, but 30 square feet = 5 feet wide and 6 feet long. Sounds like Tom's roof to me.

i didn't say 30 square feet anyway

[r-man]

Silly me.

[Simon S]

Back on topic for a mo.......the walls are progressing nicely now by the looks of the blog.





Roll on opening day!  

[Paul T]

News from Bristol is that the last bit of wall is almost complete - and it's a bit of a beast. There's still much to do though throughout the centre but we'll be opening sometime next month - no fixed date yet as there's a few variables still in the pot. Loads of new photos and info on the blog...
http://climbingacademybristol.blogspot.com

[Duma]

You got an opening date yet paul? Also any news on membership for < 5 yrs? Looks great with the paint on! Finally, it may well be that I'm just incompetent, but I couldn't find an address on the blog anywhere - care to enlighten us?

[Duma]

right, my gf, who is in on this newfangled facebook thang, says it opens on Sat the 15th, However I'm still none the wiser as to where to go... Surely this is kind of important info to make available?

[BB]

The rumour is that its 10mins from UCR on the other side of the M32. It's just a rumour though.

[Somebody's Fool]

I'm sure they're the sort of specifics Duma was after.

And if you still can't find it from those directions, and need further clues, I believe it's in an old warehouse.

More seriously, I encountered Paul on the mean streets of St Werburghs last night and he said it would open with a competition on the 29th of November as the matting was arriving around then.

[ouch]

Here's the latest update from facebook group...

--------------------
Subject: Early November update

Things have moved on greatly since the last update and the place is now almost a premiere bouldering facility. The second coat of paint is being applied to the walls and all the plastering is complete. The finish is to a very high standard and you can really feel the quality and attention to detail inside the building. It's hard to believe now that it looked like an underground car park a few short months ago.
The last piece of wall to be built is a beast and will provide a real inspirational focal point, with a full view from the café and reception area. We’ve been taking more visitors over the last few weeks and everyone has been blown away buy the sheer number of different angles and the overall feel of high workmanship throughout. Not to mention the lighting, which is incredible, and more than one person has asked if we’ve fitted skylights.
There have been a few delays unfortunately. A couple areas of the build are proving slightly more problematic than anticipated and our opening target of the 15th is not now feasible. We have decided to pursue a soft opening as soon as we can and follow that with a party when we are up and running.
We’re finalising times and prices and they will be made known shortly, as will the location, and we’re also looking for a few extra casual staff for evenings and weekends.
Have fun climbing and I’ll send another update shortly.
Paul

[Paul T]

You got an opening date yet paul? Also any news on membership for < 5 yrs? Looks great with the paint on! Finally, it may well be that I'm just incompetent, but I couldn't find an address on the blog anywhere - care to enlighten us?

I was hoping for the 15th but with a couple delays that are beyond our control it's now going to be nearer the end of the month. All the other info coming soon - don't worry.

[Paul T]

Location details now on the new blog, housed at www.theclimbingacademy.com

[Duma]

We've also decided, after much consideration, on English tech grades. To start there will be a kids circuit with closer spaced holds, and 4-5a, 5a-5b, 5b-5c, 5c-6a and 6a+.

It's not up anymore, but IIRC the vote on the blog re grade sytem went to font by over 50%

 ???

Also, 4 circuits between Eng 5a and 6a: Overkill no?

Still, pics look good, and I'll know how hard stuff is in real money, can't wait!

[Simon S]

The pics do not do the place justice imo. Thankfully some foam for the matting appears to have arrived so thats a step towards opening....great....I cannot wait.

Pity about the use of british tech grading - its seems that the majority preferred font.  Not that I am complaining, its bloody brilliant that we are getting such a quality wall in Bristol. A lot of thought has clearly gone into the planning and design of the facilities, I mean, daylight lighting, underfloor heating in the toilets and showers, wifi, and huge expanses of wall space. Way ahead of most walls!
And, as a parent to be, having a place next door, to leave the nipper, whilst I climb will be very welcome.

Bring on opening day

[Paul T]

Thanks for the comments about grading guys.
I thought long and hard about the grading topic and discussed the pros and cons with a wide range of people, many of who are very good boulderers. You are right that the vote on the blog was favouring Font grades, but the volume of voters was not particularly high, and certainly not the representative cross-section that we had hoped for. There will be a dedicated board in the centre for marking up Font grades of individual problems, though circuits will get given overlapping uk tech grades which our core customers will be more familiar with. This seems the way to get the best of both grading worlds and be less confusing to people overall. For example - the 5c to 6a circuit (it's orange by the way) will encompass Font grades of 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b and 6b+. That's a real mouthful and on its own and I know would be very difficult for many people to understand.
The overlapping middle grades will encourage climbers to try circuits that they might otherwise think too difficult - this is a real problem that rears it head when people limit themselves by numbers. We're really keen on encouraging new climbers and not just servicing the existing market and this is the best way, along with excellent facilities, to do just that. There will be plenty for everyone though.

[SA Chris]

Chinny reckon.

I think you might be heading for the Land of Confusion.